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Ne Nebraska | seems like a current topic :)
Back story is I had a Parmak 110v fencer on my subdivided pasture for the past 7 yrs, no issues, always a strong readout- 16 to 18, usually around 16.4. Never moved the fencer.
This winter I removed that fencer and used it on another farm around some cornstalks. No issues.
Last week moved it back to the original location and could not get a readout over 1.3 and mostly 0. Thought ok, lots of things could happen over winter. Removed all the fences except one line to try and isolate things. Still no change. Walked the entire half mile fence and no shorts I could find.
I have a 12 ga insulated copper wire on the ground going to 3 six foot ground rods spaced about 5' apart. 12 ga insulated copper wire going to electric fence overhead feeder wire that goes over the corrals to the fence. I've got the old glass wire anchors (lag screw type) off old buildings for the overhead feeder wire to go thru.
After no results, bought a new Gallagher M560 110v fencer. I now can get a good spark shorting to a post with hammer- Parmak wouldn't even short. But the Gallagher still isn't giving a green level readout, so still not where it needs to be.
Next step I plan to install a new overhead feeder wire from the fence back to the copper wire off the fencer. The current wire has several splices from decades of use. I can "hear"the pulse "sing" thru the splice from the copper wire to the overhead feeder. Also on one of the glass insulators I could hear the pulse "sing".
Question- should I be using a different type of wire than the two copper wires at the fencer? Reason I used insulated is because I need to go thru tin building wall, but was thinking I could use electric fence wire instead of copper and just run it thru an old garden hose to insulate.
Insights appreciated as I'm frustrated with a system that worked just fine for several years and suddenly doesn't.
TIA | |
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Electric Fencer issue
