|
North Central Indiana | We use spring applied NH3. We’ve also done years of testing with side dress 28. Split applied 28. Split applied NH3 and 28. Urea. Urea and 28. Urea and NH3. Obviously there’s lots of talk of conserving nitrogen, split apply so we don’t poison the water, etc. but honestly what we’ve found through all of that is at least for us none of it matters and NH3 is generally most cost effective on top of it all. This year on top end ground we’re down to about .65 lbs of N/target bushel applied in the spring as NH3 and .1lbs of N/target bushel applied 2x2 at planting. On lesser ground it gets closer to 1 lb N/bushel total. So it’s not like we’re throwing 225lbs at every acre just for the sake of not running short. Spend a lot of time in the 140-160 lb range of actual N from NH3 being applied. Every acre VRT potash, MAP, AMS as needed and NH3. Starter is applied as a constant so the VRT maps all take that into account. Honestly not sure what else we could do without having a lead on plentiful manure to spread. All that to say, there’s a bunch of ways to farm, there’s no “right” way. Heck even on our farm we have fields that haven’t seen anything besides a thin NH3 knife and a planter in 30 years. Other fields get a disk-chisel every year. Some get cover crops now that we no till or striptill into. Some get a finisher pass in the spring. Each practice has its place. More crops in the rotation would be nice but even soybeans you have to will yourself to keep in the mix with the prices and it is a business afterall | |
|
Anhydrous vs Urea- soil health - short term/long term ?
