Townsend, Montana | Dan Loehr - 2/23/2025 10:07
Have been reading many times on AgTalk about pulling a tile plow or direct hitch scraper with a Front wheel assist or even Artic
I've had experience with multiple over load and ----rear end Scrapping OUT gets expensive
Heck tore up a 1566 IH just from weighting and adding Michelin radial tires 50 years ago (radial's didn't slip much)---250 hp+ didn't help much
So you hook either PT or mounted tile plow on a tractor or a direct hitch scraper
First thing bump up air in the read tires --had a 9370 gear drive we pulled a Leighbrecht PT tile plow best I remember 20.8 X42 duals on the rear
45 PSI rear tires would still squat the tires almost to rim --in a hard pull with a couple help tractors and track hoe helping
Hook a tractor up tight go 1.1 MPH low gear --no slip I don't care if you are 1/3 THROTTLE you are asking for an expensive repair
Just saying on a Sunday Morning know what you are getting into ----works for a bit THEN gets expensive
I've seen 4 front wheel assist on Gold digger plows busted rear housing (I don't think the PT plows are much better)
I know of at least 3 other tractors rear bearing or trans after tile plow
Just saying Really hard on a tractor to lock it down tight with almost no slip
Dan
Or get a tractor with specs that will do what you need. You could order 70k Clark axles under Series 3 Tiger Steigers from the factory. I've never plowed tile specifically, but you will be hard pressed to find a better tile plow tractor. Big Bud, Rome, and Rite tractors were both built to take it - what ever "it" may be.
In a drawbar situation, you can pull any old flat track Caterpillar at full load in first gear all day every day with minimal worries.
Utility/row crop tractors are just that. If you want a tractor that will survive forever on a farm under full load, get a tractor built for scraper work. |
Tractor rear ends and transmissions --just a conversation
