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| Driver matters. Do you drive aggressively? 10 ply? Cheapest, best mud/snow grip? *often very soft compound*. Towing load? Normal extra stuff on back? Psi pressures you run?
I find cheapest, best traction rating often have least treadwear life. I pull a lot. Just over 40k new tires. But how close you get to legal tread matters. Factory tires often cheaper, softer, or really hard in rare cases. Parents bought a car I HATED driving. 80k mikes factory tires plenty of tread. But do a cloverleaf, curve at speed suggested? Tire squeal, break free. Hard as iron tires. They wanted new car. I gladly paid what trade deal would be. “We thought you hated this car?” I put new tires on it. WONDERFUL change. But I lost almost 2 mpg. *over my driving them on long trips*. So 400 lbs less passenger, luggage weight, but worse mpg because safer tires. I was happy.
I never buy cheapest tires. *unless selling I might then*.
Mounting, TPMS, balance, labor same if $$$X tire or $$$X plus $40 tire. But if you get a safe +10k miles? That $40 extra per a tire was dirt cheap. Heck even $50 more per tire. If 20% more range, time savings. It’s still well worth it. Tires are worth spending more then what you must if better quality, longevity, traction for your needs…
It may be possible if funds are tight. To offer to buy new, but date coded up to 2 year tires at discount. Understand some places will not fix, put back on tires date coded over 6 years…. My 1 ton sits for +2 months at least 2x a year. I have 2 half ton trucks for everyday stuff. It only gets used for work. So tires get old, before worn out.
Edited by Larry_minn 2/1/2025 21:32
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Tire longevity
