It seems to me there are camps of good and bad. A food is either good or bad, depending on what camp a person is in.

I believe that many foods can fall partially in both camps. It may have both good and bad properties. I suspect coffee is that way. It has lots of antioxidants, which may be helpful in some situations or for some people that need it. It also has lots of chemicals including a pretty good dose of caffeine. Some of those may be helpful in some situations or bad in others or in excess.

I don't think everything has to be all one way or the other. It could have some potential benefits but also some potential harms. And they might not be the same or in the same proportions for every individual. 

I look at prescription medicines the same way. It is always about the potential risks vs the potential benefits. And the "potential" may not be known till a person actually uses it as it may have bad side effects for one person but not another and may benefit one person while not another.