|
| If you do steel on the walls that electric will need redone also.
If you have sliders, what are going to do to reduce heat loss there. The ones we have are not very tight.
It cost $70,000 to do a 60 x 150 when I did mine. Foam would have been cheaper but less R value. They put batting in the walls and cellulose in the ceiling.
If you do foam on the roof and walls you will not have to drop your lights down. Of course you will need fans to hold the heat down.
They bid $30,000 to do mi8ne with foam and no steel.
We used the radiant overhead heat in town. It worked well. We just ran the one that was over where we worked. It would warm the concrete and what we were working on. After we left the concrete would radiate heat out through out the shop
Enough to keep things from freezing any way.
I got talked into doing a regular heat pump / furnace for my new shed. It still doesn't work after a year but even when we are trying to get it to work the draft and noise is not pleasant.
Get a window air conditioner and let it run all summer to keep the humidity down. I just set a 24,000 bu unit over the floor drain and let it run. It doesn't cool any that way but with no humidity the shop was comfortable all summer.
Putting the window unit in the wall and using a radiant tube heater will cost less than half of what this heat pump will cost.
We went with the heat pump as we were suppose to get rebates and it was supposed to be a more efficient unit. Wrong on both counts
If you fully insulate your shop, it will not take much to keep it comfortable. Last year I had no heat until January. Then I hooked up a 35,000 btu heater. I did pretty much leave it run but that is not expensive to run. | |
|
Finishing Inside of Building Cost
