Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | dewgubbe - 1/29/2018 19:48 Yes, I think I will have enough room to take it out in pieces like that. I'm assuming just clean the o-ring grooves with a wire wheel, clean up good, lubricate the o-rings with petroleum jelly and slide back together? Some advice: A: For cleaning those O-ring grooves, you can take a 2 ft piece of emery paper(of a roll), and "rip it length-wise" = gives you a thin long strip, to get the emery paper down inside the metal grooves, for cleaning purposes. {Sanding back and forth using 2 hands, with CAT part snugged in a vise.} Note: we had a glass-bead machine, so that was our short-cut procedure, for cleaning grooves. B: Make sure to cover the oil holes, with clean rags/towels, on top of that oil filter base unit; BEFORE you clean that Front oil cooler bonnet, with wire wheel and finish sanding/smoothing with a small pad of emery paper = you want those o-ring surfaces pretty smooth, AND get the taper, also. = the parts, with new O-rings, push together "hard enough", and you don't want to damage your new O-rings. C: When you have parts together and back on engine, but bolts are still slightly loose, you will have to slowly tighten the Horizontal 4 bolts, at rear oil cooler bonnet, while slowly snugging the lower oil cooler mounting bolts (vertically from the bottom) = You need to do this, so the new rear O-ring can stay "centered" in its bore and seal properly. Just do a little tightening, at a time, top, then bottom, then top again, then bottom again, etc.etc. and it should work out fine. (Don't need to be too critical of the front, because that older engine uses that 2 O-ring adapter, that can compensate for some unevenness.) [don't forget to buy 2 O-rings for that oil filter base, also; where the oil cooler mounts to it.] |
3406E oil cooler replacement
