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John Deere 7200 planter troubles
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SI_Farmer
Posted 3/29/2016 00:55 (#5206427)
Subject: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


We have a John Deere 7200 16 row front fold planter that has been giving us troubles for awhile now. First off, we just got it out to get it prepped for planting season. When we try and lift the wing wheels to unfold, right side wing wheels will lift just fine, left side can barely lift itself. Long story short, when we finally got it unfolded, I removed the 2 main cylinder stops/locks to rephrase it, as long as they are off, planter will operate with no problems whatsoever. As soon as we install the stops/locks, left side will start to slowly go limp again, anyone found a fix for this problem? Second question, the right marker arm will not kick out when planting, tried switching solenoids from the left side wing to the right side, and won't kick out, and left will (so that's one less possible reason). Tried 1 new mercury switch, ended up getting crush somehow, so replacing that this weekend. It's getting to the point where we are about ready to get a new harness for the planter cause we can't figure it out. This is our 2nd year owning it, so any help is much appreciated.
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John Smith
Posted 3/29/2016 01:18 (#5206435 - in reply to #5206427)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


South Central Illinois

The hydraulic system has a limited ability to handle high pressure.

There is an update on the wheel cylinders.

It is a 4 piece o-ring that gets installed on a new piston.

It helps to separate the markers so that they are on their own circuit.

I also installed a crossover relief valve on the lift and marker circuits.

The valve dumps oil, from the pressure side to the return side, when it hits 2000 psi.

 

As far as the marker issues, IDNK.



Edited by John Smith 3/29/2016 01:23
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Deere7000
Posted 3/29/2016 06:49 (#5206579 - in reply to #5206435)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


Carthage, Indiana
The Mercury switch may be the problem or the dinner switch.



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jedeka
Posted 3/29/2016 07:18 (#5206647 - in reply to #5206579)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


Boone, Iowa
I had a 7200 for several years. I had to adjust the cam lobe that the micro switch runs on. It is to the left of the dimmer switch in the picture. If it is out of adjustment, oil will bleed back from the wing cylinders. My RH wing would leak down more than the LH side. After that adjustment, it was a lot better. Those two main cylinders on the frame can cause problems too and a seal kit fixes that.
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SI_Farmer
Posted 3/29/2016 08:17 (#5206758 - in reply to #5206579)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


Do the dimmer switches control just wheel cylinders? When we got the planter, the dealer had replaced the right main cylinder (looking at the planter), whenever I was trying to take off the stop/lock, it rotated a couple turns then finally stopped, the left one doesn't rotate at all. Could there be an internal problem with the new cylinder that's slowly causing the left wing to go limp?
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Deere7000
Posted 3/29/2016 08:34 (#5206782 - in reply to #5206758)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


Carthage, Indiana
Dimmer switch is for the markers. I would try and bleed the cylinders. May have air in them. Start with the side that raises the best loosen fitting and let some oil run out
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SI_Farmer
Posted 3/29/2016 11:19 (#5207084 - in reply to #5206782)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


This happened last year to us at the beginning of planting, left side started plowing in the ground, we rephased it, put stops back on, 2 hours later it was needing rephased again. Would there be anything wrong with leaving both stops off during planting if we can't figure it out in time? We only have about 180 acres total roughly to plant.
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4WD
Posted 3/29/2016 11:30 (#5207104 - in reply to #5207084)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80

SI_Farmer - 3/29/2016 11:19 This happened last year to us at the beginning of planting, left side started plowing in the ground, we rephased it, put stops back on, 2 hours later it was needing rephased again

. Would there be anything wrong with leaving both stops off during planting if we can't figure it out in time? We only have about 180 acres total roughly to plant.

 

If it is like our 7200 8 row planter, then if you leave out the cylinder stops, on master cylinder, then the whole planter's toolbar won't lower to the to the proper height of roughly 20-22". It will always stay up too high, with planter in the ground(even thou the master is completely retracted), and your down pressure springs won't put on proper tension, then corn may not get planted to correct depth.

There ends up with too much oil trapped, between master and slave cylinders, during that rephrase procedure(that's why we have to bleed off some oil, with planter in the ground to get proper toolbar height, AFTER rephrasing; using those bleed screws on top of slave pistons) Edit: don't forget to get those "stops" back in place, after bleeding down slave cylinders, to get toolbar height correct, because it only takes ONE full lift, and you get too much oil trapped again, between master and slave cylinders and you will have to repeat the bleeding procedure to lower toolbar height



Edited by 4WD 3/29/2016 11:34
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John Smith
Posted 3/29/2016 15:19 (#5207457 - in reply to #5207084)
Subject: RE: John Deere 7200 planter troubles


South Central Illinois

As I mentioned.

Update the pistons and rings in the wheel cylinders.

There is a reason Deere came up with a new design.

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