I rebuilt my wheels also, like you did. It was way less expensive and I didn't drill for grease zerk. That was about 3000 acres (plus/minus) ago. The first factory set ran for several thousand acres, so I figured these should last my life time?

I wish you had contacted me. I have a extra set of all the parts. I doubled my order some how, when I sourced all the different parts from the bearing dealer . . . . . . .

What you did will work and saved you money. The only other concern is the wear on the cast wheel edge - it likely  needs to be reshaped  . . . . . green drills co, is now cutting points into them, making them crumbler type wheels. I need to do that to my wheels ~

If it's just a few acres (100 or so - which would be about a day of drilling), I'd likely just plug in the hydraulics and go. I'd bump the hydraulic lever to keep pressure in the range as measured by the pressure gauge.

If the drill is set up with open center / closed center hydraulics, then just lock the hydru lever back and let it work as designed for constant pressure.

When I used the drill on my 1256, I had to bump the lever to keep the hydraulic pressue in the range on the gauge. It wasn't a big deal and worked . . ... .

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Something to consider for running 750 drill on open center IH hydraulic system

This came from someone on Ag Talk originally so hope they will chime in and talk more about this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjkDxacS5Ss

 Edit: Found the thread where it was discussed by K-Tech

http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=546445

I run on a JD closed center system. So I lower the drill and then lock the lever in constant down pressure with a lever lock clip this keeps constant hydraulic pressure on the openers over field variations and contours.

The gauge is normally mounted on the valve on the drill but I found it was too difficult to see /monitor what the pressure was. I made a remote gauge mount to put it up right outside the back window. (Did not want it inside in case there would ever be a leak. I  did not want high pressure oil spraying me and inside of cab) This way I can easily see it in lower corner of my rear view mirror to make sure I have pressure on the openers. The down pressure is still adjustable back on the valve on the drill though.

On the remotes I also only have 2 remotes but utilize a push pull valve to run 3 hydraulic functions. 1 outlet controls lifting drill and putting pressure on openers via the lever lock. The other outlet runs to a push pull valve. In the down position that runs the independent markers on the drill. When filling I pull the selector up and hold the lever in position in the tractor to run the hydraulic motor that powers the drill fill auger. Works great since you never need the markers and auger at the same time and avoids the need for coupling and uncoupling hydraulic connections in dirty conditions or needing another power unit in the field to power the drill fill auger with bulk seed.

As Jay points out, the grease is to keep the seal from wearing out, not to lube the sealed bearings. Adding a grease zerk to grease just inside the seal sounds like a good idea. Then periodically just purge grease out around the seal to drive dirt out.  Grease between the bearings will likely damage the sealed bearings.