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1655 Oliver more rear wheel adjustment questions
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somerset
Posted 8/8/2013 21:05 (#3256552)
Subject: 1655 Oliver more rear wheel adjustment questions


kirkton ontario		Couple days ago I was asking about moving the rear wheels of my 1655 with powerjuster rims, thanks for the help. I got the job done and have moved the wheels as far as the stops allowed. Now I would like to get the track spacing closer to 60" for rowcrop work, It looks like I have to loosen the hub and move everything in a few inches, help me out with tips for this next stage of the job. Thanks
P.S. Will be moving front end next, any tips about that job too?
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Ben2013
Posted 8/8/2013 23:44 (#3256929 - in reply to #3256552)
Subject: Re: 1655 Oliver more rear wheel adjustment questions


Western, Pa		As far as moving the rear hubs take the u bolts out one at a time, wire wheel the rust off them and clean the holes out and replace them if they are pitted at all they will strech if they are pitted, run a chaser over the threads and put new high nuts on them with hard washers, when you put them back together TORQUE them to 450ftlbs dont just tighten them with a breaker bar, seems like a lot of messing around when your doing it, but when your done your done and they wont come loose. And the front end a porta power works great and ussually some heat push a tube out which ever one comes out first, wire wheel it clean the rust out of the hole and reassemble, when you do it the holes maybe ovaled out best thing weve found is to use a car ream and oversize the holes to 7/8 or 1" and TORQUE the u-bolt clamp to 250-275ftlbs. also check your wish bone nuts make sure they are tight. Hope this helps you out.
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Robert W Greif
Posted 8/9/2013 06:00 (#3257035 - in reply to #3256552)
Subject: RE: 1655 Oliver more rear wheel adjustment questions



Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463		Are the rear hubs now flange out or in?

To get the 60" spacing they will have to be mounted flange in.
That means the hub will have to be bolted onto the wheel casting and the casting, rim and tire assembly mounted in one piece.

Since I am moving OMs supply is not at hand. I cannot tell you how much change in tread width with the switch. But I would bet it is 8" to 10" per side.
Measure the width of the hub, plus the thickness of the casting at the hub.

On the front end. The first thing to do is get a good supply of Panther Pee. And get some on that front end.

Loosen the u-bolts.
Drive out the big pins.

Remove the bolt, I think 1/2" from the tie rods.

But things are probably pretty well stuck together. Panther Pee time.

Replace the big pins with 1/2" or 5/8" bolts, flat washers, and nuts. Do not tighten up tight.

In the tie rod bolt holes, put in 3/8" bolts, flat washers, nuts. Again do not tighten up tight.

Use the tractor. Keep an eye on the front end. Looking for anything that may have broken free.
And lots of Panther Pee.

The above front end deal works, but it takes time.
The smaller bolts in the holes keeps the stuff from falling apart when it does break free.

Good luck. And don't give up. keep at the thing and you will win.



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