AgTalk Home
AgTalk Home
Search Forums | Classifieds (120) | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

New Holland stack wagons educate me
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forums List -> Machinery TalkMessage format
 
nosoup4u
Posted 7/25/2012 10:31 (#2504726)
Subject: New Holland stack wagons educate me


My son is doing some small scale farming and dad is getting too old to help out on a hay rack. I was thinking of looking for a New Holland pull type stacker this fall but have never had any experience with them. What should I look for in a used one? Any models particularly good or bad? Will twine tie bales work okay? What happens if your bales aren't consistent length?
What else do I need to know?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
nf4450
Posted 7/25/2012 11:07 (#2504758 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me


NW OHIO		The 1034 and later 1038 are really good 105 bale pull types. Some have the ability to also make tie tiers and single bale unload. Not sure if that was an option or standard on all. You dont need a huge tractor on them but you will need atleast 60 horse and a healthy drawbar. Make sure to look close at the frame for breaks/ welds. Id say you could spend anywhere from 5-15 thousand on one
Top of the page Bottom of the page
cwjones
Posted 7/25/2012 13:11 (#2504935 - in reply to #2504758)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Southern Indiana		My Dad ran a 1049 for probably 15 to 20 years. Then we got a 1069 diesel. Both great wagons once we got the diesels fuel pump lined out. Self propelled can probably do 1.5 times the work or more than a pull behind. They will run 45 down the highway easily when loaded. Twine will be no problem as we used both plastic and sisal. Auto tie simply throws up some spikes and turns the bales as you dump the 1st tray. It simply changes the direction of some bales to help hold the stack together. If dumping to restack tie fewer layers. If dumpin to leave for a while then tie more layers. The diesels are a good idea but if you dont have the $ I wouldnt be afraid of an old 1049 gasser. It has pleanty of power.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
GreenhouseGuy
Posted 7/25/2012 21:24 (#2505675 - in reply to #2504935)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Piedmont, NC		MY 1049 S would never get close to 45 mph unloaded. Probably 20 maybe.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
funfarmr
Posted 7/25/2012 11:09 (#2504759 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Ohio		The bales need to be a consistent length or they don't work very well. We just sold ours. We had one for a few years and liked it. But we had to buy some straw the one year and it came in round bales so we ended up buying a round baler. We had a 1033 which was made in the late 70's. Held 105 bales I think.

Here's a link to the specs http://www.roederimp.com/bale_wagon_specifications

You will need a quarter turn chute for your baler. We built one. They aren't hard to make,
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Cole Sibley
Posted 7/25/2012 11:14 (#2504767 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me



I think they are getting spendy again. When we sold the idiot cube equipment twenty years ago it wasn't worth anything, but they are back in demand I guess. If I was you, I'd really consider a self propelled (MUCH easier to manuever than pull-type, and maneuverability is key). We ran a 1068 for many years, excellent machine. Plastic twine is no problem, we ran sisal for years but its quality just kept going down and it was not really acceptable. If your bales aren't consistent length, sounds like you need to count strokes better (correct speed for windrow size); wagon will haul them, but making a good stack gets harder.

Things to look for is probably oil leaks around cylinders, hydraulic hose quality (how worn out hoses are). Is the header bent (these have a specific shape, and never work quite right again once they get bent, and they are easy to bend up), push off feet in the rear get bent easily as well (but are not terribly important and can be straightened); If these thins are bent up and restraightened, they often give an indication to how the machine was used (or abused). Its been a long time since I ran one, so take this for what you paid for it, and good luck!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
nosoup4u
Posted 7/25/2012 11:47 (#2504813 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


What does "auto tie" mean in regard to these stackers?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
GreenhouseGuy
Posted 7/25/2012 21:31 (#2505682 - in reply to #2504813)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Piedmont, NC		It spears the outside 2 bales on a layer of three when you start number 3 layer and 6 layer on the second table. Then it flips the middle one back on first table and raises an extra trip lever to make 2 bales flip the ones on the 2nd table sideways with the two remaining in the middle. Creates a layer that is tied together by the weight of the other layers that go on top of it so stack does not fall apart when dumping. Too hard to explain. You need to see it to understand. Fairly simple, but brilliant.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
bob1968
Posted 7/25/2012 13:00 (#2504925 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me


NH bale wagons work great if your buildings are set up for them, ie wide and tall enough to back them in. They're not great if you have to dump the stack outside the building and run the hay in with an elevator and hand stack. I'm running a 1036 which is a two bale wide wagon which holds 69 or 70 bales. My buildings wouldn't accomodate the 3 bale wide wagons well. I can generally pick up and stack 3 loads an hour on the home farm. I started with a 1002 which holds 55 bales and could still do about 3 loads an hour. Much of your time is spent running to the storage building , backing in and unloading which is the same regardless of the bale wagon size. If you have hay down the road that really slows things down and I'd seriously consider a self propelled wagon for the road speed. Auto tie on my bale wagon is where I pull a lever which spears two bales in the 5th layer to turn 2 bales cross ways which stabilizes the stack. Auto means you don't have to get off the tractor and manually turn the tie bales. I have to count layers, pull the lever, and remember to push the lever back when the two bales are turned. Maybe it's a little more auto on newer models. I found mine fairly forgiving on bale length but it does take a tight, heavy, dense bale. Light, loose bales do not work.

Go to http://www.roederimp.com/bale_wagon_specifications for the various model specifications and make sure your buildings work.

If your buildings aren't right you might want to consider a bale thrower/kicker and kicker wagons; a bale buggy; an accumulator, grapple, and flat wagon/trailer, or a bale bandit or bale baron. If money was no object the bale baron would be my first choice.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Hay Hud Ohio
Posted 7/25/2012 13:27 (#2504961 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me



SW Ohio		IF you can make solid brick uniform bales you may like a stackliner, if not forget it, look for another way to handle small squares.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
mr.agco
Posted 7/25/2012 13:35 (#2504976 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Watonwan County MN		Just bought a 1033 stackliner from a buddy for $3000. Works great, the operator is the problem... Little bit of a learning curve to unloading with one, but once you get used to it, it cant be beat.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Dave9110
Posted 7/25/2012 13:38 (#2504982 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me



north-central Indiana west of Fulton		You want one that is 3 bales wide, stacks much better than 2 wide. Had a 2 wide 1002 for a few years and traded for a used 1033 in 1980 and still using it. Need a building you can back straight in and pull straight out . We have a 15 feet high building but think 13.5 would work on 104/105 bale wagon. You lose a bale when you put a tie row on. Very few problems and done alot of bales. To make consistant bales do not over load baler capacity and you won't have a problem.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
combinejockey
Posted 7/25/2012 21:45 (#2505709 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: RE: New Holland stack wagons educate me


The only way to make a bale wagon work great is to have a very good baler in front of it...crappy bales = pissed off balewagon operator....they are rather simple machines once you are familiar with them...I would look for a 1033 or 1037....2 of the simplest yet good capacity machines. Run a 348 baler and 4020 on the wagon...you want the bales heavy and tight enough that if the wagon breaks down...you hate life for the moment and would not want to be riding the rack. Picked up thousands with a 1033 that was new in 74.....still used today.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Archery dog
Posted 7/25/2012 22:20 (#2505784 - in reply to #2505709)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Schochoh Ky		Nosoup4u the 1037 wagon is the one I would recommend . We started with one 22 years ago, bought it from a farmer 250 miles from me and pulled it home with a ton pickup. They average around 7500 to12000 dollars, for a good used unit. Shop farm world classifieds and the Internet to get a farmer owned machine if possible.Look for extra welds on pickUp arm and second table mounts as well as the frame. Newer models I think from1978 on have a slatted load rack that allows you to leave a load on it without spoiling.The best thing is they hold there value incredibly well so if you don't like it you can resale. You will need a good baler and run slow. We run three self propelled wagons today and have a1037 as a spare , neighbors use it every year so you know they are easy to keep up.If you buy one get your nh dealer to order one of every spring on it as all the trips that operate the wagon require a different size spring.NUMBER ONE TIP ALWAYS TRAVEL SAME DIRECTION AS BALER HAS RUN !,,!!!!! We absolutely love ours . My son started on one with a4020 when he was nine.Oh yea you know which way to run by the knots on the bales, will not show you are going wright .
Top of the page Bottom of the page
agraz
Posted 7/25/2012 22:30 (#2505814 - in reply to #2504726)
Subject: Re: New Holland stack wagons educate me


Ran a 1049 S gasser for years. It's wore out but runs like a champ. Will do 45 empty and 30 loaded. Bale shape isn't terribly critical but the heavier and more uniform the better. Both self-propelled and pull-type are very simple machines, just levers and hydraulics. If taked care of they will last forever.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete cookies)