How much would they take off to not put any door on?

Then go to a by fold or hydro swing.

God I hate sliders!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We have one shed left with sliders and a concrete "post" in the center for the doors.  No good reason for that kind of **** in my opinion.  Three of them???  Oh MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I built a building from Moore with a 24' and a 36' door on the east side.  Center post on wood post worked fine--for about a year.  Then freeze-thaw started working on them, had to adjust the doors every spring to get them to work, and in the winter sometimes had problems as well. 

Neighbor put his guide on an I-beam and buried it in cement, I later bought his land with that building.  We've never had a problem with that guide so that might be an option, or we are just lucky.  I don't know how deep he buried the I beam, but it must have been well below the freeze level.

Personally, if I had to have a sliding door in order to enjoy all the bird problem they create, I would consider pouring a 3' footer under the door as someone suggested.  The newest building has overhead doors with openers, and it is such a treat.  Wish we would have been able to afford them years ago.  Overhead is really the only good way to have a door in the shop, or even in a machinery building, for that matter. 

This probably does not apply as this is an old barn retrofit.

 Old doors had been blown in and broken many times over the years. When the old concrete floor was replaced with a new one we sank a pipe into the concrete and which also had rebar feet welded onto it to keep it secure. The plan was to give the old doors something to push against to keep them from blowing in. Later on we were planning to go with some sort of overhead hydroswing door. That did not materialize and we ended up having new sliders made utilizing quick frame and bottom tracks to keep them in place when open. In order to utilize the socket already in place I welded up some stuff from the scrap pile to make these door holders. I welded a thin piece of sheet metal around a slightly smaller pipe that would fit into the one in the floor. Then I welded a small channel on edge to the thin plate that would slide inside the bottom door track. The quick frames on the door interlock also so once they are closed and hooked they are going nowhere. It was tricky as the bottom door tracks needed to slide over the thin plate to close. No problems with wind moving things when they are shut.

Before someone says something yes they need a shot of paint

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Ted, I have an old shed that has that reciever type hitch in cement. In the center of a , one piece sliding door. (slides one way) Works great, but.

In winter, if the square tubing in cement gets water down it. 2 pieces frozen.

Solution is antifreeze poured in square tubing, get rains, have to blow out water and reapply antifreeze., because too diluted.Maybe we are talking something different, but I like the pull out center reciever. Just antifreeze is toxic to animals, unless you use the RV stuff.

If I had pictures it would look like Von's galvanised pipe only square tubing that telescopes or slides inside each other, with the larger square tubing flush with cement and buried in cement,  I do not have the Morton "T" for rail, but a U shaped heavy metal piece that is on both sides of door(inside/ outside), welded on top of smaller square tubing that fits down cemented in larger square tubing.

Probably confusing everybody.