 | |
North Central Iowa | I would recommend strip/tube LEDs over bulbs/point lights. Much better at eliminating shadows. If doing 3 rows, consider putting the outside rows closer to the edge rather than at the 1/4 pt to minimize shadows in front of you as you face a wall. Most shops would have a lot of the work and storage along the walls.
As far as type of LEDs and fixtures, there are almost too many options. I've recently been putting up LED "ready" vapor tight fixtures that can take 3 LED 48" bulbs in our barns (try to keep insects and dust out of the fixtures). All it means to be LED ready is that the fixtures don't have ballast and the tombstones are wired directly to line voltage. Been putting 2 bulbs in and if we decide want to go brighter, add the 3rd bulb.
V473SSUBCXX00P0 from PRO Lighting for the fixtures. Bulbs I've gotten from eledlights.com. DLC rated 4 ft LED tubes.
In a shop, the vapor tight fixtures may not be worth it, probably less expensive to put up more conventional open fixtures/strips. But an option to consider.
Consider wiring your lights up at 240 volts, cuts back on amp draw (or use normal #12 wire at longer distances). For our large outbuilding with 21 of the Prolighting fixtures w/ 3 bulbs, could put all on one circuit even though had very long runs (was only 5 amps, but over 250 ft of wire run from the panel, so voltage drop is a concern). Used a double pole light switch. Not sure you can set up 3 way switching easily however doing this. Most LEDs can be wired 120 v-277 volt (you'll want to confirm that).
In any lighting you decide, DLC rated would be a good thing to look for (kind of like Energy Star) and lights with over 100 lumens/watt. | |
|
Led vs Fluorescent Shop Lights
