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how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall
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don@nebr
Posted 3/27/2015 19:45 (#4481042)
Subject: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall


Anybody ever cut flush with wall etc straight and even so can match it back up??

subfloor is in bad shape. It was 1 bye 8 sheathing of questionable quality in 1950 or so and they run on the diagonal under the outside walls and inside partition walls. Trying to cut it straight and even so 3/4 plywood matches up best it can

Was told rent a toe kick saw,,,or a flush cut saw, Our one big box store and our two rental places dont have any for rent or sale.

Closer I can get to the wall the better because the 3/4 plywood is 'close' to the 1 bye thickness but not perfect,,,a hair difference
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dswsd
Posted 3/27/2015 20:37 (#4481184 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall


Central South Dakota
Last one I did was the same way and I just cut it as close to the wall with the narrow side of a skill saw. We laid laminate floor on some and you never saw the seam. If it's carpet you will never see the differnece either.

My think was you are not going to walk that close to the wall so the ease of doing it this way outweighted any drawbacks. Thru the door opening I used a chisel to get it tight to the walls or door. Hope this helps

Edited by dswsd 3/27/2015 20:39
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guessrow
Posted 3/27/2015 20:54 (#4481226 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: multitool?


Le Sueur VIA St.Thomas
Don-

A multitool like this http://www.amazon.com/Makita-TM3000CX5-Multi-Tool-Set/dp/B00836IWD0 would do the job. I have the cordless version of this and I really like it. The corded version like my link is more capable of doing what you need done. I don't use mine very often, but it sure is nice when I do need it.

good luck -jim
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extrahorses
Posted 3/28/2015 06:59 (#4481754 - in reply to #4481226)
Subject: RE: multitool?


Central ND
This gets my vote also, i have one and they are great for making flush cuts like you want. I used mine to cut off solid oak door jambs for new flooring and it cut very quickly. They make other style blades than the one shown also. You will want to buy extra blades.
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tomosakis
Posted 4/7/2015 08:36 (#4501513 - in reply to #4481226)
Subject: RE: multitool?


Osakis, MN
I myself wouldn't dream of going all the way around a room with one of those wood burnering vibrating multitools, find a jamb saw. If you can't find one to rent call a flooring installer they will have one. You can get within an inch of the wall with a 6 1/2" Dewalt cordless circular saw. If you add a nailer to the joist to support your new subflooring you should be ok.
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DRester
Posted 3/27/2015 21:21 (#4481320 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall


Franklinton, LA
The contractors who install ceramic tile have a special saw for cutting off the bottom of door facings and baseboards. Perhaps you can rent or borrow a saw of this type from a tile contractor.
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nwks
Posted 3/27/2015 21:38 (#4481380 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall


Just use a circular saw as suggested, cut as close as possible to the wall. If you want to level it perfectly with the existing flooring you could use strips of 30# tar paper stapled to the joist or sheet rock shims if it needs lots of leveling. I have used both methods in my carpentry business with excellent success.
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movinahead
Posted 3/28/2015 10:05 (#4482130 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall


Red River Valley
Cut as close as you can with the skill saw it will get you within an inch and a half. I have used ice and water shield to raise the new subfloor up even with the old and will also give you a squeak free floor when you are done.
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don@nebr
Posted 3/28/2015 15:53 (#4482695 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: update and now what????


Fired up the circle saw and sawed away. Set it to the exact depth of the 1 bye by sticking it in the crack so the blade hit the joist and the depth was riding tight. Should have been a done deal.

WELL, somebody stuffed a brand new wire up tight to the floor board,,,the blade skinned the wire,,didnt trip the breaker ground fault actually cause its in kitchen. outlet still works. Hard to see in there much,,poor light and down where cant bend well. Thought I could see bright copper but maybe its just the covering,,,how would you tell? Would think anywhere close to the wire would have shut the outlet off real quick.

Cant put anything back together not knowing. Expect the wire to be stapled tight and cant be pulled thru,,,it goes to an oulet about a foot up the outside wall. Now I dont know what should be done with this issue???ANY ideas??
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45Deere9670
Posted 3/28/2015 18:04 (#4482900 - in reply to #4482695)
Subject: RE: update and now what????


St. Joseph, Champaign County, IL
If this is over a crawlspace, or basement with access to the bottom of the floor joists (not a drywalled or similar ceiling), cut the cable at the bad spot. Get 2 appropriate junction boxes and place them at locations that will let you easily splice a new piece of cable in, in between the ends of the original cable. If it's a finished ceiling below, you may have to install a couple junction boxes in the ceiling. Done right, and with the right materials, the boxes can remain accessible, but largely disappear into the ceiling. Good Luck!

Edit: After re-reading your post, I realize the one run of cable (if cut where it's now nicked) won't have enough length to splice as I describe above. Being an electrician, I'd state at the receptacle box in the outside wall. Is the box plastic or metal? If metal, it should have a clamp inside that you can loosen and then see if the wire moves when pulling down. If it moves, you should be able to tie a new cable to the old and pull an appropriate amount down to be able to make a single junction like I mentioned above. If plastic or the cable doesn't move, removal is difficult but not impossible. Boxes, be they plastic or metal can be successfully cut out of the wall in such a way as to leave the wall surface undamaged once repairs have been made. Using a reciprocating saw, put the blade in between the box and the stud to cut the nails holding the box. The blade can be angled up and down to cut the nail without cutting any drywall. Once cut, the box can usually be maneuvered out of the hole. I have demolished the box in the wall before removing it, but usually not needed.

Once the box is out of the wall, you can try and get the staple popped loose to then use the existing cable to pull in a new piece. Or, you can abandon the original cable, from the cut up to the receptacle, and fish a new run of cable up the wall.

Use a single gang plastic old-work/ remodel box to replace the original box that was removed. It'll be bigger then most metal boxes (just have to trim some drywall to enlarge hole) or usually the correct size to fit the hole left by a plastic nail on box.

These situations aren't fun, and if I never had to do another one like it, it'd be too soon. They are able to be fixed though.

Edited by 45Deere9670 3/28/2015 18:22
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Chris
Posted 3/29/2015 12:52 (#4484318 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: simple and cheap



East central Iowa

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/oscillating-tools.html  

I bought one on sale and it works about as good as my $100 tool but the harbor freight tool makes more noise and probably won't last but for one job the price is right. 





(tools.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments tools.JPG (77KB - 683 downloads)
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don@nebr
Posted 3/29/2015 16:39 (#4484754 - in reply to #4484318)
Subject: RE: simple and cheap


Yes I just bought another one. Had one a few years ago and was impressed on what it did, but not overly impressed. I recall trying to cut 3/4" oak flooring once. That just was not a great idea. Used it gently since,,,makes a better 3 point sander.

Just bought a Performax last week for this floor. It cut those 3/4" pine or fir 1 bye 8's pretty darn good and pretty fast. Either they have improved some over the first multi-max or mine was half burnt out from wrong use. I will find enough use to keep it happy.

As said last post it will probably cut thru wires just fine,,,grrrr. just my luck. I should have looked better but 3 layers of 2" solid pink Styrofoam was pushing the wire up in the rim joist area...That was done a couple years ago. So old minds think alike,,,they dont 'member!!!
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chirpfarm
Posted 3/31/2015 14:00 (#4488546 - in reply to #4484754)
Subject: RE: simple and cheap


South Central MN
I bought one of the cheap $20 ones at a Menard's sale for $10. It works, but it vibrates so badly my handles tingle for hours after using it. My dad bought this dewalt http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE315K-Material-Corded-Oscillating/dp... , and it is so much smoother and quieter. They are an incredibly handy tool, and I'd definately look into getting a higher-end one for a large job.
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boog
Posted 4/1/2015 19:02 (#4490710 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall



I was going to suggest a toe kick saw but see you couldn't find one to rent. Carpenter that does our work has his own. It's a pretty neat tool & you can cut really close to the wall / baseboard with it.
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Rawleigh
Posted 4/2/2015 11:02 (#4491938 - in reply to #4481042)
Subject: RE: how to cut 3/4" subfloor flush with wall



White Stone, Virginia
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-3-8-eighth-inch-blade-toe-kick-saw-9...
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