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Wyoming | Got both Deere-style and ISO-style SCV's that are leaking. Is this job as simple as replacing the O-rings and seals? Or is there some bit of jig or pressure measuring tooling I have to have to complete the job? |
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Brazilton KS | It can be done without any special tools, although I'm sure Deere has at least a couple for the job in their extensive inventory of unnecessary accumulation.
Seems like if you get less then 50% redo you are doing pretty well. |
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Eastern Ontario | I posted these way back when. They were for a different deere, but should be very similar to yours. By leaking I'm guessing you have oil leaking off the Breakaway Coupler. This can be fixed with the SCV on the tractor, but easier when you take it off. If you mean leaking like the valves are leaking(slow lift or lift by itself or lowers by itself) then the valves need changing. This is best done with the SCV off the tractor. There is also a seal kit available for them, but I bet that the valve itself is scorn and has to be replaced. There are 4 valves per SCV and they are not cheap. There is a way to test which one of the 4 is broken, but it involves a pressure guage 0-5000psi and a hose with a pioneer or JD coupler to stick into the breakaway. I can post the instructions if you like. Which model tractor? http://u15205752.onlinehome-server.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=4652&posts=6#M28763
Edited by Clay-All-Over 11/13/2006 07:18
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Fruita CO | Hey Dave, is it just the coupler leaking or the valve above the coupler? You can replace the seals under the cover w/o messing up the adjustment. If the valve itself is not working right, creeps or the neutral isn't right, you should adjust it when you go back together. They won't work right if the adjustment's off. I made a copy of the Deere tool, if you get a manual, it shows the tool & procedure. If it's just the coupler part leaking, it's no big trick to reseal it. I do prob. about 20 of them a year...
Ron in CO... |
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nw pa | you can buy the whole kit for the back scv's, replacing just the o-rings might work for awhile but have found the best way is to get the new locks and pins. Other poster is right about having to re-do some of them. Why I don't know,you would think that with all new parts they would never leak again but not so.
Just punch out the metal plugs on top and it all drives out. Kit comes with new plugs etc. |
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Wyoming | There's no leak-up or leak-down, except for the leakage out of the coupler(s) directly. Not all couplers leak as badly on either machine. I've got a 4640, with three ISO (pioneer 8010 tip-type) couplers, and a 4440 with two JD-style couplers. The JD-style couplers leak a LOT less than the ISO style on the 4640. Oh, and there is this: the most commonly used couplers have issues with retention of the hose tip in the coupler. On the JD-style coupler on the 4440, we use a bungee cord to hold the little lock levers in position, and on the 4640's ISO's -- feh. The first SCV really, really needs to be rebuilt. It won't hold a tip well and it leaks pretty steady. Are there instructions in the shop manual on how to rebuild these? I've been considering getting the shop manuals for these machines and just this weekend, I notice that the CD-ROM version is $100 and the printed manual is $200. Woof. That's a pretty expensive wad of paper.... any thoughts on how well the CD-ROM version works if you have to print out a few pages to take under the machine on a messy job? thanks guys... |
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Sunnyside, WA | Having 3 40 series and 2 50 series, all have been rebuilt at one point in time or another. The 40's just keep leaking, no matter how many o-rings we replace. Next time I'm just going to get a 50 series complete SCV from a salvage yard for two of the 40's. Easier to hook up, already pioneer couplers, and seem to not leak near as much, or if they do, replacing an o-ring will actually stop the leak. The other tractor, a 2240, we removed the scv block, bought a couple pipe adapters, and put simple pioneer couplers on. Doesn't work as well as a JD, but we never unhook the hoses on this one and they don't leak either now. |
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Brazilton KS | It's in the service manual. CD-rom should only be about $75 I think. Are you dealing with a dealer or direct with JD publications? It should be in the I&T manuals (more like $25) also, they are a lot cheaper but if you have no idea what you are trying to do you are probably still going to be in the dark with and I&T manual in your hand....they're great to provide specs and setup instructions to someone who pretty well knows what they are doing but they are not written nearly as idiot-proof as Deere's TMs. Deere CD-rom
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EC IA | I've been told you can change the JD type ( 4020,4430,4440 ) SCV's over to ISO ( pioneer ). Has anyone tried this ? I assume it wouldn't
be any harder than rebuilding with original type parts , but would like to know for sure. Sure would be nice to have all my tractors the same
& not have to mess with adapters. |
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Fruita CO | I've told this on here before, but here goes again-the ISO conversion kits, IMHO, are junk. They are plated with some kind of crap that flakes off after a while & eats the seals. The cheesy little stem that goes thru the middle bends at the slightest provocation, then you have beat it out, & it buggers up the hole as it comes out. When these first came out, I changed over dozens of them, they were all the rage...over time, I have changed prob. the majority of them back to the old JD style, & guys put up w/ adapters, which are a pain, but at least they don't keep costing you every year or so. You will spend as much in oil in a year as it costs to change back. Your mileage may vary, of course, but my advice is, if you change to ISO, don't throw away the old parts...the parts guy at JD here used to be a mech., & he agrees wholeheartedly with this opinion...
Neither type is hard to rebuild, the main thing is clen, clean, clean...
Ron in CO... |
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Garden City Kansas | deere has a kit for both upper and lower scv.
if scv is slow or leaking down then upper scv seals need to be redone, valves may or may not need to be replaced. if they do you need a tool to grind on the valve seats to make them smooth again so seal doesnt leak there. after you have all that taken apart you need a dial indicator and a vise to adjust opening and closing pressures. specs are found in a tech manual.
if its the lower scv leaking its simpler. dont loose the balls in coupler, and use grease to hold them in place when getting everything back together. |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | Are they leaking between the cartridge and tip ,or cartridge and scv body ? I have the ISO conversion cartridges in my 4020 and have had 0 leaks since I installed them with standard O rings between scv body and the ISO cartridges. Nothing has bent,broken or leaked on the ISO conversion cartridges in 10 + years. I never try to couple/uncouple them with high pressure in the tips/impliment cylinder,maybe thats why they have been trouble free. One trick that I discovered a couple years ago is to replace the round O rings that seal the tip in the cartridge with square "quad rings" from my CNH dealer. They will seal a slightly worn/damaged tip/cartridge body where a stock O ring will not. They also do not seen to wear out like a round O ring which has to extrude into a square gap to seal,while a quad ring does not. I have been replacing the "inner " O rings on several different brand tractors that use Pioneer/ISO tips with the quad rings. In all cases,a coupler that leaked immediatly or shortly with an O ring,has not leaked with a quad ring in a couple of years. Might be worth a look. |
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Eastern Ontario | You would need to get a repair or seal kit for each of your Breakaway couplers. Both ISO and JD style kits are available. In order to remove the couplers you need to remove the little lever first. You need to take out the plugs on top by turning a self tapping screw into it just far enough so that it will grab. Pull the caps out with a pair of pliers. There should be new caps in the kits. Then remove the snap ring and spring and drive the lever out to the bottom. Now you can take the coupler out of the housing towords the back. Some couplers have a coil ring inside the housing towards the back which needs to be removed before you can pull out the coupler. Be careful not loose the little balls when pulling out the coupler. Once you got it on the bench you can remove the collar and balls. Some models have a ball inside the coupler which might rust and start to leak. Replace it. You need to push down on the opposite side of the coupler and remove the little snap ring. Very tricky. Using a drill press to push can help. Replace all O-rings you can find. Put everything back together. The reason that your lever pops out is that the little spring underneath the caps is weak or broken. Maybe too much dirt in there. I would replace them as well. They might not be in the kit and neither is the ball. If you have O-rings and a packing in the coupler housing, I would replace them with the new style quad ring. Same goes for the inside of the coupler. I hope I got everything. Someone will holler if I missed something, I'm sure. If your couplers are leaking without any hoses plugged in, then I suspect that seals need to be replaced in the brekaway coupler as well as one or more valves in the SCV itself. There should not be any oil pressure on the couplers without moving the levers in the cab. Parts can easily be found on the JD website.
Edited by Clay-All-Over 11/13/2006 23:47
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Eastern Ontario | I agree on the quad rings. They are much better and you can get them from deere. If I'm not mistaken theyare already in the kits. I disagree with the ISO couplers. To me they are junk and will not put another pair in. I'm glad yours worked out but mine didn't. Most of the time a quad ring will fix the problem. |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | The original seals between the scv body and ISO cartridge were not a quad ring in my 4020 ISO conversion kit ,they were a square ring with an internal lip type seal ,like a conventional shaft oil seal that used system pressure to seal the lip to the cartridge,no little spring like an oil seal. Problem was that when the tractor was parked and hyd pressure went to 0,the seal lip relaxed and drained all the oil in the scv and lines down the back of the tractor. I replaced them with conventional O rings which made the cartridge harder to slide in the body,but don't leak any oil when the system has no pressure. Do the new kits have a true quad ring? If so,they may make an easy sliding ISO cartridge ring that seals without pressure. |
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Brazilton KS | We've got a bunch of the ISO conversions and I'd have to agree with Ron in not recommending them. The old cone style couplers were the best on the market at the time....the ISO conversion is a long way from meeting that standard.
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Eastern Ontario | Jon, the housing rings are the square type like you mentioned, but the rings inside the coupler are quads.
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Rebuilding Deere 40-series SCV's - how difficult?
