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Toolbox on kinze planter Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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mack57 |
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central Illinois | Would like ideas of where to put a toolbox on kinze planter.Used to use area where insecticide boxes are but I m using that space now would aprieciate any ideas. | ||
mack57 |
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central Illinois | I forgot to mention its a 12/23 3600 | ||
KAR |
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Here's what I put on ours. Bought the box at lowes as it's got a rubber gasketed lid to keep contents dry. Had a piece of unistrut left over from an electrical project and already had the u bolts. (20180208_164137 (full).jpg) Attachments ---------------- 20180208_164137 (full).jpg (222KB - 44 downloads) | |||
6farms |
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southern Ill | Big enough for gauge wheel and closing wheel. (14574650339460 (full).jpg) Attachments ---------------- 14574650339460 (full).jpg (47KB - 55 downloads) | ||
Sharecropper jr. |
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Deep southern Illinois | I used 3” angle iron 1-1/4” long on the inside of the cylinder pin securing bolt, if that makes sense. I had to replace the factory carriage bolt with a longer one. Then, on the inside of the box, I used a piece of c-channel with pre-drilled holes (I believe the same thing the above poster used to mount his kobalt box) the length of the inside of the box, at the very bottom. I bolted another brace off of the clamp at the top of the center post that holds a hydraulic hose bracket. I should’ve put more bracing on the inside at this bracket, but had to settle for a large flat washer. I needed it as close to the center as possible because I currently have 4 Agleader modules mounted inside, and the harnessing isn’t long enough for very much offset. Since I built it, a friend has told me that when these planters get older, the steel strap welded to the cylinder pin to secure it will break if the bolts are kept tight, because as the pin and cylinder wear it will start moving. If I have trouble I will re-engineer my bottom mounts to use some sort of a double nut/lock nut to attempt to keep it from getting in a bind. I had to mount it this high to clear my boxes. Currently have 11” of clearance in the transport position, and I think that will be enough. (3232C746-D7BC-46A8-AD8F-5214E11019E0 (full).jpeg) Attachments ---------------- 3232C746-D7BC-46A8-AD8F-5214E11019E0 (full).jpeg (262KB - 34 downloads) | ||
young buck |
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I made a spot at the very front of the tounge. It’s handy because it’s low to the ground. Made it big enough to hold a tool box and several bags of seed if I needed to | |||
Landon.B |
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Hardin County, IA | Here's where I put mine, works good and can store a lot of parts in it. Landon (20170504_183554 (full).jpg) Attachments ---------------- 20170504_183554 (full).jpg (126KB - 40 downloads) | ||
Sodbustr |
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Western Iowa | I had one mounted just like that on each end of the planter when I had a Kinze. I had used the 'plastic' boxes like you have at first. A tree branch hanging out will make you have to get out and pick up all your parts and tools off the ground and then go buy a new tool box. I put aluminum diamond plate boxes on then. They work much better...….. | ||
jdg |
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Cen IL | I bought a piece of square tubular plastic about 9' long. I think it was originally made to be a fence post for one of those plastic fences people put around their farm stead. It was about 5" square. I cut some wood pieces about 3/4" thick and 4 7/8" square. I plugged each end of the tube with these and used a jigsaw to cut long ovals in the topside of the tube. Those ovals were compartments about 20" long. I used more wood squares as dividers. I slip my 9' long "toolbox" into the metal tube that the pusher units are bolted to, from the left side. I run a bunge cord across the end of the metal tube so the "toolbox" doesn't slide out. Has worked for me for close to 20 years and amazes me how much stuff I can put in it. Also very weatherproof. | ||
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