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8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?
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WItitan2
Posted 8/22/2018 21:26 (#6944625)
Subject: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
So I have been contemplating updating my tiling tractor. I currently have a John Deere 8960 with a 3pt I tile with. I haven't even got to use it on the farm for the last few years, cause it's busy custom drain tiling. It's got 7300 hrs on it. The only thing, is if it goes down, I usually have 2 employees standing around if the tractor breaks down. It's kinda hard to get excited about a really fancy or expensive tractor to tile with, cause it's not like you spend all day in the cab. I spend more time running the excavator. So I was thinking, just keep it and update my 8200 to a tractor that would run the tile plow if I needed it. Hopefully the old 89 runs for years, but when it's time, we have to get pipe in the dirt. Our spring and fall tiling seasons are short. I'm running more land too, so I'm spread fairly thin. Looking at the test results, it looks like an early 8r vs 30 series has lots more pull. ( 8295r vs 8330) and the 20s are less. Also hard to find a nice 20 with low hrs. Are the early 8rs good? I have a friend with an 8330, and that thing pulls like a freight train. So, just thinking, don't have to do anything. Thanks!
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Deerezilla
Posted 8/22/2018 21:39 (#6944659 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


OR
I have a 8400 and a 8335r that 9.0l pulls hard. It’s a night and day difference in how much more my 8335r will pull.i have drove a 8530 and it’s a beast. If I had to do it over again I would go with a 30 just because of little to no emissions.
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nin424
Posted 8/22/2018 21:54 (#6944712 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


SW MN
We had a 8130, loved it. Unfortunately, it was in an accident and got totaled out. Went to a 8235R, it had an IVT which was nice, but other than that we didn’t like the tractor. We had several electrical problems and it was definitely short on power compared to the 8130. We were finally able to get rid of it and get back into a 8130 which we are much happier with.
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WItitan2
Posted 8/22/2018 21:55 (#6944716 - in reply to #6944659)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
I think the early 8rs (2009 and 2010) are basically a 30 series with an r series cab. These are the round headlight 8rs.
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Roguesfolly
Posted 8/22/2018 22:12 (#6944758 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Nw Ks
Had an 8430 and traded to a ‘10 8320R. Both had IVT, ILS and front duals. Have had fan drive done twice on the R. Steering cylinder leaked, 3 point quit in planting season and wheel seals got replaced on the R. The 30 had a few hydraulic issues same as the R but I think both were caused by adding a 5th SCV.
To be fair, I’ve used the R more hrs and have worked it harder. All things considered, I should have kept the 30 another year or two and then gone to a 8335r.
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collegeboy
Posted 8/22/2018 22:45 (#6944811 - in reply to #6944716)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?



Slicker than a Yes album.
Sort of correct. It has the Tier 3 engine, good suspended track system and R cab. And IVT availability. Not sure how that works on a tile plow, but if you'd ever get a trencher plow, it'd be awesome.
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Catoperator
Posted 8/22/2018 23:09 (#6944838 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


N W Ohio
Would it make more sense to upgrade into a self propelled plow? Steel tracks go through a lot of frost or slimy conditions. I know it’s a 200,000 for a used one but with the tractor upgrades you’re talking about probably not that far different in price. It would greatly extend your tiling window. I do tiling also with a pta 325 and a Johnson pull type plow so I know all about short tiling windows.
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WItitan2
Posted 8/23/2018 00:17 (#6944882 - in reply to #6944811)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
Still use the 89, this would just back it up. Mostly just be a farm tractor. 7200 12 row front fold no till, liquid fertilizer. 30' field cultivator on bean stubble in the spring. Then if something happens to the 89, I can tile with it. It wouldn't be as good, but 6" and 4" it will work. I have used my 8200, years ago. It would do it, but not great. Ivt and ils scare me! Also, top dress urea in summer, back up 4440 on sprayer.
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WItitan2
Posted 8/23/2018 00:23 (#6944885 - in reply to #6944838)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
No, I've thought about it, but I wouldn't gain much. I just did a 2500' job, have a 1500' waterway project to do next week. I can just road the 89. The 3pt plow gives you advantage of a self propelled, with considerably less traction. Having to haul it everywhere, makes those big jobs impractical. The newer 8000 series would just be a farm tractor to back up the 89. With the self propelled plow, I have to get way more production. I like tiling, but my farm comes first.
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roush9799
Posted 8/23/2018 07:04 (#6945083 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?



West Central IL

We bought an early 8225R.  Same as our 8230 and 8430, it has the R series cab, but everything else, even the hood is the same I believe.  I think they made them 2 years that way until they added the burner to the exhaust.  ETA:  I believe they changed the numbers when they went with emissions, ex: 8225R became a 8235R.  '09-'10 would be what you are looking for. 



Edited by roush9799 8/23/2018 07:07
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DixieDeere
Posted 8/23/2018 07:26 (#6945130 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?



Jackson County, AL

We have two '10 8245Rs that have been great so far.  Just normal type stuff with a few little electrical things.  One we bought from a retiring farmer and it had a new clutch put in before we got it but I believe Deere helped out on it out of warranty.  Each has had a fan belt, which was something we never had to mess with much but overall we've been very happy.  Very nice cab and much less emissions than the next series of R.

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GM Guy
Posted 8/23/2018 14:49 (#6945911 - in reply to #6944625)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


NW KS/ SC ID
the 8020 series is the 03-06 5.9L Dodge of JD tractors. Modern enough that you have plenty of features and advancements, but without the crap that plagues the newer ones.

To my understanding the 8030 series went to CANBUS, and it is not without fault. The farmer I run trucks for during harvest went from a 8320 to a 8430, both ILS PS tractors, and the 8430 has been more problematic. Fan drive issues, sensors dying, etc. the ol 8320 just ran and ran.

His dad has a 8R and having to park the thing over on the summer fallow with the exhaust pointed away from the field to do a parked re-gen while the 1980 4880 Massey 4wd had to go from half the cart duties to all of the cart duties was kind of a low point. Then the ILS halfshaft failed in the middle of the field with less than 3000 hours, and again the MF did it all. IIRC it too has has a few sensors quit.

If you are not running cart with multiple combines, the cooling system is not really an issue on an 8020 series, if we could keep it on the clean side of the field we could go a week or more between cleanings, but if we had to run in the ****, it was blown out daily.

So IMO if you are hung up on JD, go 84 or 8520, long exhaust tip preferably, as supposedly they had more snort.

Or for tile plow, would a MT600 series Challenger with the Fendt CVT be on the list of possibilities?
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WItitan2
Posted 8/23/2018 18:39 (#6946217 - in reply to #6945083)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
Actually, dealer says they are all 2010s, and they only made them one year. Looking at 8295r.
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WItitan2
Posted 8/23/2018 18:49 (#6946238 - in reply to #6945911)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
From what I know, the fan on a 30 series was engine oil drive. That was changed to hydraulic. I don't want ils, or ivt. I don't trust ivt, CVT, or dot............ The support of my dealer and my personal experiences farming with John Deere causes my loyalty. The guy I lease my semi to is a Massey guy since youth. He also runs challengers. Never been impressed with the dependability and performance. Have a friend that is a fan of Allis to the core. Not too impressed with allis either. I was just talking to a guy today that has a 4240 that he bought new with over 11000 hrs, and never overhauled, and original clutch. So, I'll stick with Deere. I want a d21 or 220 someday, and a 1950. I'd take a 195 workhorse too, and a g1000 Vista............. I don't plan on tiling with this tractor, just needs to be able to.
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Walton Farms
Posted 8/23/2018 20:30 (#6946480 - in reply to #6946238)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?



SW Indiana
I'm a deere guy as well, plant with 4560 and have an 8310 also. I guess I can't imagine spending 100k-150k for a 'just in case' tile tractor. If your that busy tiling the 100k-150k tractor should be the tile tractor, whether that is a 30 or R series. If you need a spare for just in case spend 15k-25k on an 8640-8650, yes I know they aren't NAT approved, but they would work cheap for a few days while the big horse gets fixed.

Edited by Walton Farms 8/23/2018 20:31
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WItitan2
Posted 8/23/2018 20:39 (#6946504 - in reply to #6946480)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
Well, it's not a just in case. It would be the main farm tractor, but capable of doing tiling in a pinch case. An 8650 won't pull much more than my 8200. So you buy an 8650 with a 3pt for 20, it breaks, and it's still a tractor that people don't want. I'd love to find another 8960 or 70 with low hours and a 3pt, but they just aren't around. At least if I upgrade my 8200, I'm getting use.
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Walton Farms
Posted 8/23/2018 23:18 (#6946902 - in reply to #6946504)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?



SW Indiana
Keep your 8200 and buy a cheap 8650 for a spare, keep the extra cash in your pocket. 8650 is 10,000lbs heavier than an 8200, should drag an 8200 around if hooked together.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/2/2/3224-john-deere-82...

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/1/0/109-john-deere-865...


If you just want a newer tractor I suppose you have a way to sorta justify it. All of your equipment looks top notch Ryan, I wouldn't be scared of your 7000-8000 hour 8960. How many hours a year is it getting laying pipe?
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WItitan2
Posted 8/24/2018 06:17 (#6947028 - in reply to #6946902)
Subject: RE: 8020 vs 8030 vs early 8r?


Pierce county WI
Oh, I'm not affraid of the 8200, it's a nice tractor, been taken care of. I'm a tractor guy, for sure. Back when I was in my 20s, I drove a $1500 pickup, but I had a 4450 that was nice. So, the 82 is getting up in hours, 8490. It will be fine, but I wouldn't mind having a lower houred, more desirable tractor. Like your 8310, if taken care of, those tractors hold their value well. That one year they made that r series with the tier 3 engine, should make them a desirable tractor for a long time. My tractors and combine always get washed, waxed and shedded, and if we didn't like machinery, we probably wouldn't farm! The 89 gets taken care of, but it might sit out somewhere all spring and fall doing tiling jobs. And when you're tiling, you are only running it for a little bit at a time, so sometimes you don't even bother turning the radio on. I like that old 89. It's got about 7400 hours on it, and gets 250-300 hrs a year. I just can't get excited about an old 40 or 50 series 4wd, cause they are such a pia to work on, and just aren't well loved. I have thought about a 8760, 70, 8850 kinze conversion with a 3pt. But you are still going to have $30k plus for one, and that's still not going to do the job of the 8960. If I trade the 8200 off on the 8295r, at least I'm getting use out of the tractor. I know I could run the field cultivator with the old 4wd, but I don't do as much tillage as I used to, and I'm a one man operation so I only run one piece of equipment at a time. I'd love to buy a nice 8970 with a 3pt and lower hours, but they didn't make hardly any 89s with a 3pt. You can add it to one, but too much money for what it is worth to do. As far as just updating the 89, I don't feel I'm getting a bigger, better tractor until you get into a 9520 or 9620, and those too are rare with a 3pt. I priced out a really nice 9620, and a 3pt, and installing it. Looking at about $94k to trade or sell the 89 and replace with a nice 9620. There's a 9620 with a 3pt in Indiana, but it's not the sharpest one, and they still want $130k outright. Better to buy one and put the 3pt on.
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