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| Inspected combine. 1251 engine and 821 rotor hours Main thing I have questions about is rotor and transition cone. Cone has hole starting to wear in it. What is the best way to repair this? New extended wear come from case for $4150. Standard wear is $2350. Extended wear cone from Abilene machine is $2375. Cone guard liners I think was $1750 from Abilene machine. Rotor also has dent in it. One of the brackets for the rasp bar is bent down. Rotor is going to get pulled for cone. Noticed vibration from rotor in cab. What is the best solution for the rotor? Other things engine thermostat sticking. Lower sieve out of position alarm comes on a lot. Right rear powered axle leaking oil very slow. Engine has low rpm’s alarm come on a lot. Feeder face plate top pivot bolt two out of three are broke. Pictures of rotor and transition cone will be uploaded.
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 EDD9061D-168E-424C-B808-B37CBB31B8CD (full).jpeg (112KB - 730 downloads)
3C853463-9A42-4BA6-99EE-56AAB71CC3E6 (full).jpeg (128KB - 827 downloads)
57CD0323-CA6D-49B0-9403-64FCA0B8365D (full).jpeg (122KB - 649 downloads)
70CA3C5D-E5F1-4744-8048-C7DED9B47521 (full).jpeg (160KB - 760 downloads)
2EE1CCA8-AC5A-4F2A-A21A-CBC23B298EB9 (full).jpeg (107KB - 645 downloads)
509FB30B-6683-4B57-8052-02FA31FF69D9 (full).jpeg (149KB - 723 downloads)
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Lottsburg VA | We had to put a new cone in our 8120 at 1000 hours, seems ridiculous to me, we put extended wear cone in this time, but I have seen liners that seem to last just as long. Definitely time for a junkyard rotor, keep the vibration to a minimum. As far as the engine alarm going off, we had to go in toolbox and change the rpm point at which the alarm sounds case has it too sensitive
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| I would bet you can find a cleaner machine. |
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| The problem? It's red. Go green and then you won't be asking on here for help. ;) |
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Stayner, Ontario | Give Kile Machine a call @509 569 3814 and they will fix you up with new parts for your rotor. We installed Kile Rasp bars on our 8230's
and removed the first two stands and rasp bars from the rotor. Your new cone will last a lot longer. |
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| Don't know about that. Some guys aren't talking to highly of the green 670 in the thread below. |
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Holland, Indiana (SW IN) | First off ignore the green underwear guy -Stout Farms-most people with a green grinder keep trying to convince every one else they are smart
They keep buying the same POS paying too much from a JD dealer who will not help them fix said POS--They never get smarter
Now that I have handled the person not helping--Stout Farms
We replaced transition cone in a 8230 --put in extended wear) --about the same HRS --If I had it to do again would have put in a liner --cheaper and think last longer?
You are going to pull the rotor --Balance it --I don't know where to send it --your dealer will help--I think you can balance it yourself--I never tried it
Thermostats tend to stick from the factory in the Iveco engines --thought Case would have fixed it by now ?
IIRC Iveco left some metal shavings in the cooling system? I don't remember the reason BUT Case replaced a bunch of thermostats and housings for us under warrenty
--Seive out of position Seems that has happened to us a few times IIRC was a wire rubbed or pulled
Your monitor (Pro. 600 or 700) will have a diagnostic feature which will be very helpful finding wiring trouble
Good luck Dan
Edited by Dan Loehr 6/13/2018 18:07
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Osnabrock ND | I would put liner in. It only really wears where the hole is. Like said remove first 2 bars n stands. I bet you have dirt insid rotor. Ours had terrible vibration at 900 removed dirt n had it balanced now can run 1150 n no vibration. They are easy to work on. Just if you do work your self feeder house is very heavy. |
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Shelburne Ontario Canada | Take the dust out of ur rotor. The dent is no worry to me. Tske some time measure it up. Weld it up to same as the rest. Put rotor in combine . Spin it. Mark where it stops.should go to same place esch time. I start with a small vise grip. Heaviest spot will be down. Pinch it on an move along to bigger stuff eventualy weight wat u have pinched on weld it up an away u go! |
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SW Illinois | I doubt it’s just dust in the rotor. If one of the rasp bar mounts is bent, there’s a good chance the rotor is damaged. We bought an 8240 last year that had swallowed a rock. Our dealer took the rotor to a place in Quincy, Illinois to be balanced. They found out the shaft that runs through the rotor was bent. They replaced it and balanced the whole thing. I don’t think a new one runs as smooth as this one does now. |
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wcia | cone liner isnt a bad deal. i put new extended wear ones in mine. but i would use a liner again. get the 4 piece and dont have to pull the liner. std rasp bars are junk. get chrome ones be sire and check trop shafts in feeder. they wear like a b***h |
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Osnabrock ND | We took 2 5 gallon pails of dust n chaff out of it. That’s a lot of weight if it’s all on one side. |
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Michigan's Thumb | I rolled steel and welded the cone, almost all of the cone I had to use a mirror welding to see what I was doing. |
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McCanna, ND | a guy on here sells a one piece cone liner made out of AR235 (same steel as rotor) for around a thousand bucks I think. I put 400 separator hours on mine last year and the only wear it had was where the welded the seams together since it didn't have quite the same curve as the rest of the liner and acted as a small ramp. You have to look to see the wear its so minuscule. When the rotor is out I would put new rasp bars on and get the rotor balanced. If nothing else at least balance it as it only costs a couple hundred bucks usually. |
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north central Ohio | Put a Cone Gaurd liner in much easier and a little cheaper no pulling of rotor. Straighten/weld rasp bar that should not cause a vibration as is though. Pull gear box off feeder house drive and rock trap off and check shafts over for wear while putting in a liner. If good grease well and put back together. Make sure to get lastest feeder house drive shaft if it needs replaced they are greasable. We also drilled and tapped and made our rock trap greasable too when it needed replaced. Thermostat we had quite a deal with finally determined seal was binding on sleeve of thermostat causing it to bind. Third time apart matched a seal out of a mid size case tractor rear axle seal to put in it and so far so good. So check seal over good. They look good but move the sleeve up and it will bind and not allow it to close. The electrical stuff might check over all the electrical connections you can find. Pull apart make sure they are dry and oring seal is in them to keep moisture out. Had issues with some on ours that caused some problems. Good luck! |
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| When dealing with the feeder sprocket and beater, are you using the felt seals and filling the cavity with antisieze? I have done quite a few of these and they seem to last. I know that's not how they do it in the factory, but it works for me. |
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Western illinois | Well, that was helpful. Take your toys back to the sandbox. |
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Louise, TX | To fix your leaking axle change cap on top of axle and stainless tube with o-rings on it that go down into axle. Parts are expensive. Put jack under axle to take weight off, you don't even have to remove tire.
I've changed both sides on my 9120. |
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Monroe City, MO | Richards Electric in Quincy, Il can balance a rotor. Very good people to work with. |
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mora | ... |
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Case IH 8120 combine problems
