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GM Guy![]() |
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NW KS/ SC ID | Hey all, I have a friend of a friend that is having a tough time with his 8830 that he just bought this winter. It loves to overheat. All the common stuff has been looked at, mechanical guage in addition to OEM (confirms overheat), new t-stats (pretty sure not OEM New Holland), radiator, fan clutch, lift pump, ensured plentiful fuel supply (blew back supply) etc. He is trying to pull a 22 foot Glencoe Soil Finisher, and if thats too much load, he had issues in the cold grinding hay with it running hot then as well, so it does not seem to follow the load, or the season, just the tractor. It fires up, runs smooth, burns clean, throttle responsive (blows black when you nail the throttle, but clears nearly instantly when turbo spools), etc. It does have a sharp "crack" to the exhaust sound when its idling. Is it possible for the slotted gear to be slipping and changing the timing causing it to run too advanced or retarded? It does not appear that the pump has ever been monkeyed with, but that is not outside the realm of possibilities. I assume these are easy enough for some previous guy to have monkeyed with and it might be running too much fuel? Any input appreciated, Thanks! Edited by GM Guy 5/17/2018 16:15 | ||
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GM Guy![]() |
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NW KS/ SC ID | Also, when we were looking at it I forgot to ask him if he checked oil in the IP. what symptoms would the IP being low on oil have? Is there a hydraulic advance circuit that runs off that seperate oil supply that is not working if its low? | ||
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Bern![]() |
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Mount Vernon, WA | Injection pump is fixed timing - it does not have an auto advance. The external oil line is for pump lube only. As for the static timing, I really doubt that the timing could be off far enough to cause it to overheat. Assuming the radiator is clean and has good air flow through it, my focus is on the fan clutch. Do you hear the fan start to roar soon after a heavy load is applied? If not, there's your problem. Also, those fan belts need to be guitar-string tight in order to turn the fan fast enough to do its job. | ||
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Birchcreek79![]() |
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MN | Clarify some things please, when you say radiator was checked do you mean externally blown out so it's got good airflow thru or taken out and flushed, recored, so water flow through is good? Take a heat gun and see what the temp differential is in and out. Also you mentioned lift pump, to me that's the fuel lift pump, I see nothing about the water pump. | ||
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farmwithjunkrrv![]() |
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South west of Winnipeg MB | Our 1086 did same thing when new fought with it for for two year last resort change the water pump. Did not matter how hard we worked it after that would not over heat. | ||
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deeredriver![]() |
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Alma NE | where is he located and where did he buy it from , Don't have to give a name just an area . i bought one last summer that i ended up sending it back to the dealer as it was a POS . Edited by deeredriver 5/17/2018 18:57 | ||
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Jerry/MT![]() |
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The Palouse North Idaho | Make sure the radiator cap has the correct pressure rating, the air side of the rad is really clean (duct can cake there and not blow off with compressed air), check water pump impeller and make sure lower rad hose is not collapsing at high rpm. Check air filter is clear. | ||
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Gauner![]() |
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problem sounds perplexing,some things that I have seen over the years with these engines.you say radiator was checked,as stated b4 has it really been cleaned and checked for flow?this would be my first suspicion.was it replaced with one that looked the same but is different?big difference in radiators,you need a good shop.has the head ever been off?CNH farms out gasket sets for these orphaned tractors.we caught an oem head gasket once that had much smaller holes where coolant flows than what old one had that we always save to compare with new one.we also had a block once that coolant turned to a pudding like material and needed thorogh block cleaning.have also seen a water pump that got rtv in the impeller and caused it to pump less.i would take thermostats out for now.as others have said check fan clutch,belts.timing you should be able to check with a manual.don't run them hot,they can't take it.a valve seat will drop or a piston ring will break. | |||
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Bern![]() |
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Mount Vernon, WA | Don't run w/o t-stats. That could make the problem worse. | ||
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GM Guy![]() |
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NW KS/ SC ID | Birchcreek79 - 5/17/2018 16:33 Clarify some things please, when you say radiator was checked do you mean externally blown out so it's got good airflow thru or taken out and flushed, recored, so water flow through is good? Take a heat gun and see what the temp differential is in and out. Also you mentioned lift pump, to me that's the fuel lift pump, I see nothing about the water pump. Brand new radiator installed. | ||
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GM Guy![]() |
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NW KS/ SC ID | deeredriver - 5/17/2018 17:52 where is he located and where did he buy it from , Don't have to give a name just an area . i bought one last summer that i ended up sending it back to the dealer as it was a POS . Auctontime, Oklahoma. end of 2017. | ||
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Birchcreek79![]() |
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MN | Another thing to check, not sure it would be the total cause of the problem but could be a contributing factor, - check air flow across aftercooler. A plugged cooler or if that fan is malfunctioning- it bleeds off some boost to drive it, your intake air temp could be too high to begin with. | ||
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jcwag![]() |
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Upstate Ny | The 8630 and 8830 were known for cooling issues... Undersized engine, undersized cooling equals overheating tractors... | ||
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