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Hereford Guy![]() |
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Answer a question for me here guys. Looking at the plow discussion below I got to thinking how I have only (rarely) used a furrow plow. Why would you want an on land plow over a furrow plow? Just trying to learn something here. | |||
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jtpfarm![]() |
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mn | Mostly because an onland plow doesn't require you to sit at an angle all day. :) Onland also allows you to leave both duals on. | ||
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Turbo 8820![]() |
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S.E. Washington | In furrow limits you to a narrow single tire. Because of this the size of an in furrow plow is limited by traction. An on land plow allows many more tractor configurations, (wide tires, duals, or tracks) which means you can put more horsepower to the ground and pull a bigger plow. | ||
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greg33![]() |
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center line of draft works better with in furrow on less than 6 -7 bottoms. | |||
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99MAX![]() |
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Stearns County, Minnesota | Hereford Guy - 3/24/2018 21:08 Answer a question for me here guys. Looking at the plow discussion below I got to thinking how I have only (rarely) used a furrow plow. Why would you want an on land plow over a furrow plow? Just trying to learn something here. Why would you want an on land plow over a furrow plow? Just trying to learn something here For plows to work properly you have to pull the plow in the line of draft. In other words the center of the plow should line up with the center of the drawbar. As plows got bigger the line of draft moved over towards the unplowed ground. To keep the center of the tractor on the line of draft, you had to move the tractor over, which means getting the tractor out of the furrow, and up on land. So in other words the bigger plows are generally on land plows. | ||
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Central-IL-Farmer![]() |
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Smaller moldboard plows work better in the furrow. Larger plows work better on land. It is about draft. 5-6 bottom or smaller plows are easier to get the draft correct in furrow. Larger plows are easier to set the draft correctly with on land hitch. | |||
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Jay in WA![]() |
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Pasco WA. | With on land I can be hooked up and plowing in just a few minutes. No moving wheels and leave the duals on. In furrow requires removing the duals, hubs and moving 4 tires. Then traction becomes an issue. As for pulling from the center line it have never been a problem for me. 5 bottom CaseIh 165 roll over plow with a packer behind a 8110. In furrow has a big advantage for driving if you don't have autosteer. With autosteer you couldn't give me an infurrow plow. (20170305_140044.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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801486![]() |
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west central Iowa | I've never pulled an on land plow, but I've plowed quite a bit with an in furrow. In our hills when your down hill wheel is in the furrow on a steep hill it makes lots of things worse, your tractor sits tilted even more, the up hill wheel will spin and in soft dirt the draft control doesn't work nearly as well. I did have a roll over plow for a while and that did help, you could stay on the contour and keep the up hill wheel in the furrow. | ||
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paul the original![]() |
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southern MN | Really it comes down to plow width. Need the plow centered mostly behind the tractor for a good pull. 5 bottoms and less you need the tire in the furrow. 6 bottoms and bigger, you need the tractor out farther and be out of the furrow. Paul | ||
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Deerezilla![]() |
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OR | I have plowed all my life I have never done the in furrow thing I started out with a jd 4600 roll over 4 bottom on land with 18in with a 4240 then with the same plow a 5 bottom with a 8100 then a 6 bottom same plow with a 8410 now a 995 8 bottom with a 8335r. I have never had auto steer all ways by had. | ||
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paul the original![]() |
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southern MN | I plowed with a 2-16 Oliver trip rope, while dad had the big 3 bottom. Moved up to a JD 145 4-16 and a tractor with a cab. Then the ihc 720 4-18. All in furrow of course. Unfortunately always plugging, as I kept increasing corn populations and yield as I moved up. | ||
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trakman![]() |
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Central Kansas | I have pulled a 720 IH 6-18 on land with a 1586 IH and a JD 4650 dualled up and from day one, brand new, could never get all 4 tires on land.....duals were set as narrow as possible. IH worked on it numerous times and finally told me, live with it! Well a couple of years ago, I dug it out of the fence and put it on one of my 8410T's it spaced at 120 inch with 18 inch tracks and used it as a in furrow and it worked reasonably well. If I took time and was going to plow a lot, I would narrow up the track spacing and go on land. (IMG_0622.JPG) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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TP from Central PA![]() |
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With tires set out wider than 30", you won't get everything on land. Pulled a 7 and the furrow wheel dual was barely on land 100%. Have run both, I lean towards a 6 bottom in furrow if I had a choice. | |||
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jdironman![]() |
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Nw Iowa | One of the biggest reasons for us at the time was being able to hook up and plow. With 30" rows your tractor wheel spacing has to be changed every time you hook up to a in furrow plow. I liked infurrow plowing as it was pretty easy on each end, put in furrow and go. Auto steer for some reason on land plowing never worked that well for us so it was more like cultivating. But to change a front assist over to correct wheel spacing would be very time consuming. Used to have a38" rear tire and a non powered front axle so a tractor could be changed over in about a hr. Now with all the weights and a mfd tractor with front duals would probably be more like half a day or more. Here anyway when we were plowing at the end we were still only doing about 10% of the acres so it was more like a3 or 4 day thing , not all fall. | ||
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pork![]() |
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If the ground gets really wet the onland system is pretty much useless,spin spin spin. In furrow, the right hand side tires seem to lock in to the dryer ground down in the furrow . Like with a lot of things they both have + and - . | |||
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German Shepherd![]() |
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In my younger days Dad had a 930 Case and a 5 bottom plow. In furrow of course so you could put the right front tractor tire in the furrow and pretty much day dream the day away, just pay attention on the ends. In the early 70's he got a 145 Versatile and an 8 bottom plow. Now you had to pay attention, sure made for some getting used to that first year, especially as the plow had a castor wheel on front so if you weren't perfect in the furrow the plow wheel would run sideways. | |||
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1156versatile![]() |
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Strathcona, mn | +1, I’ve had the fun of plowing with a vac case and 1 bottom pull plow up to owning 2-12 bottom 2900 Wilrich plows. My first on land was a 3600 deere behind a 8830 Ford mfwd. When the top got slimy it struggled. Grandpa used to plow with a little 484ih and a 2-16 deere pull plow. While in furrow and with diff lock he could plow through standing water. He plowed a lot of acres with that setup. It was fun running the 2-12 bottoms together. That was a swath turned down each pass. I sold both a few years ago to make sure I’d never plow again. Too many issues with moldboard plowed ground here in the spring if it stays wet, way too soft. | ||
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Sodbustr![]() |
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Western Iowa | I know of a few guys that have rolled a tractor over the years just because of what you are describing. I bought a 3710 on land to try out a couple years ago. I suppose with some practice I would have been better, but was kinda hard to keep the passes matched up nice in the hills. Wasn't much an issue on the bottoms...... | ||
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801486![]() |
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west central Iowa | paul the original - 3/25/2018 02:23 I plowed with a 2-16 Oliver trip rope, while dad had the big 3 bottom. Moved up to a JD 145 4-16 and a tractor with a cab. Then the ihc 720 4-18. All in furrow of course. Unfortunately always plugging, as I kept increasing corn populations and yield as I moved up. One neighbor years ago tied the trip rope to his wrist, it was kind of hard on him when the plow tripped and came unhooked. He could still drive the tractor afterwards, but he couldn't pull the trip rope so he hired a friend of mine to ride on the fender and pull the rope. Another neighbor not to long ago wanted to do some plowing to seat the rings on his M after an overhaul. I showed him a little field of bean stubble he could plow. He said about the time it got working good the plow tripped and came unhooked and he had it tied to the seat spring, so he about went off the tractor when it pulled the spring out. | ||
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Hereford Guy![]() |
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Thanks for the info. Learn something new all the time. I honestly do not remember ever pulling more than 5 bottoms so that would account for not knowing much about an on land plow. | |||
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boog![]() |
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I plowed for several years with wheels Ser for 30" rows. Switched the plows drawer from CAT 2 (32") to CAT 3 (38"). Slid the drawer all the way to the right. Wasn't 0erfect but by running the fr9nt of the plow a little deeper it would throw enough dirt to level with the rear bottom from the last pass. We currently run a 7x16" IH 700 trailer &a 7x16" IH on-land 720 b3h8nd med tractors dialed front & rear. Outer tires are right on the edge of the furrow wall. Don't see how you could run anything smaller and keep the duals on land. Auto steer works much better with a trailer plow than with a 3 pt on-land plow. With the 3 pt on-land plow, whenever the auto steer moves the front wheels it causes the plow to "wag". Don't have that with a trailer plow Edited by boog 3/25/2018 14:45 | |||
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jdbob8100![]() |
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ND | Jay in WA - 3/24/2018 23:29 With on land I can be hooked up and plowing in just a few minutes. No moving wheels and leave the duals on. In furrow requires removing the duals, hubs and moving 4 tires. Then traction becomes an issue. As for pulling from the center line it have never been a problem for me. 5 bottom CaseIh 165 roll over plow with a packer behind a 8110. In furrow has a big advantage for driving if you don't have autosteer. With autosteer you couldn't give me an infurrow plow. See you use a small packer-I have a few that I'm not using-is there a market for these out there?? | ||
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