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West Central IA | I’m building a tile plow and am getting close to finished. I made it to put in 4” tile a little over 4’ deep. I got the idea to build one from 17821x’s thread found here..
https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=450100&posts=1...
I got plans from him, but decided there was a few too many changes I wanted to make to be worth having parts cut to his specs.
I’m happy with how it looks, I guess we’ll find out how well it works before too long. There’s already a few things I would do different if I built another one, but I guess that’s what happens when ya build from scratch without plans haha.
I won’t be using grade control as most the runs I have will be on hills with plenty of grade. I did mount a remote inclinometer that reads in tenths of degrees, but I don’t know how useful it will be. I see guys have built big levels out of pvc....is one of these a must-have? Also, is a chain hanging to gauge depth a good thing to have? Anything else I’m missing before paint?
I’m going to build a stringer cart next. Plan to use half a semi trailer axle with brakes for the turn table. I’ve looked at threads on here of guys that have built them, but if anyone has build pics not posted please share. Or any tips on that are welcome.
Edited by fox128 2/23/2018 18:06
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Ludington/Manistee MI area | Jealous. |
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Central Wi | Looks good. I wish I had that last fall. Are those uni cycles hanging in the background? |
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Morris, IL | Looks great, wish I had 1/2 your metal fabrication skills. To answer your question yes I would for sure add chain and build a water level. They will both be useful at different times. Love to see how your cart turns out. One wet spot I tiled last fall with 4” tile about 2’ deep I got chance to try out, what what have taken 2 day was drained as soon as creek was low enough to drain away. |
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Dola Ohio | Looks very nice. You may want to weld a place you can hook a second tractor to of needed. |
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| I think I would hard surface or put a changeable tip in it and plate the sides where the point meets the vertical tube. |
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| Yes, you'l definitly want a chain, especially with no grade control. Level is useful also.
Curious what size/wall the tube is you used for the shank? |
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West Central IA | Haha yes they are |
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West Central IA | Like on the shank right below the main frame or where? |
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West Central IA | 6x6 3/8 wall |
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The real upstate NY | . |
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NE Iowa | Very nice work. I like the curved guide leading to the back. Looks like you added rollers to the top also. When I made mine I went as cheap as possible because I wasn't sure it was going to work at all. I did about 5 miles for myself and 5 miles for a neighbor and now it collects dust in the corner of the shed. Yours looks ready for much more work. |
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| Outstanding work. Be great if you could get a little video of it running and post here. Thanks for sharing. Edit to add; would there be any advantage to applying a "V" to the front side? Would seem it would/could pull easier. Maybe you guys simply rely on brute force to overcome the resistance?
Edited by Boone & Crockett 2/24/2018 03:53
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The real upstate NY | I totally missed that thread from before, but since this is fresh can I join the party... Does anyone have plans/specs they'd be willing to share still? [email protected]
Thanks! |
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Ohio | Opinions are like noses , everybody has one . Hold off on making a place to hook another tractor . Pre rip would be my suggestion . You have done a good job on fabricating . My fear is that tube for a shank maybe its weak link . Have any rock ? And I'm talking rock the size of a bushel basket ?Wet maybe not be a problem , but dry and soil that won't boil very easily and you maybe pulling that shank to its limit . Good luck .
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Nashville, IL | I think your weakest link is where the hydraulic cylinder attaches to the front frame brace. You get into some hard dirt, it will probably bend that brace. Can you add a brace diagonally from the cylinder mount down to the cross bar for your lower pins? Maybe it won't be a problem, but I know how I pull our plow and I max out and over power the 2 cylinders on a gold digger when we get into hard pulls. Not usually a problem with 4", but with 8 or 10 I see the problem shows up frequently.
Other than that, looks great. Wish I had the time to build my own stuff. |
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| I was kind of thinking the same, but didn't want to pick apart his design. Our Liebrect has a 2" thick by probably 16" piece of steel for the shank. I also would have made the sloped part of the tip come up the shank much higher. That 6" tube is going to catch a lot of dirt when it's in the ground 4'.
Probably depends on your dirt. Hopefully it will be fine. |
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| OHKen - 2/23/2018 19:43
Opinions are like noses , everybody has one . Hold off on making a place to hook another tractor . Pre rip would be my suggestion . You have done a good job on fabricating . My fear is that tube for a shank maybe its weak link . Have any rock ? And I'm talking rock the size of a bushel basket ?Wet maybe not be a problem , but dry and soil that won't boil very easily and you maybe pulling that shank to its limit . Good luck .
I will second your thoughts. I don’t want to take away from the great job you did but want to warn you about the sick feeling you get when you rip it in half the first day. We built one almost exactly like yours and our MT765 broke the 6 inch tube right below the hinge the first day. If you keep a smaller tractor on it you will be fine but I would add more metal to it. |
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| If you get a chance put a wear pad on the point
piece of road grader material would be usable |
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Chaffee, Western New York | I like it. Looks like you make a flat bottom?
Any chance you will develop plans and share?
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West Central IA | did you guys look at the 17821x's thread? he used 5x5", i believe 1/4 wall (otherwise how could he fit 4" tile through it), the main tube is vertical, and theres no additional bracing. His seemed to hold up and work good.
We dont have many rocks , but i know if i hit one that will be the real test. I agree my weakest link is probably right above the cutting edge. I may put a brace in there. But I also think my main pivot might give out before that with the amount of leverage up there. Regardless, the thing will have paid for itself if it survives the first half of a maxi roll. And if it breaks i'll fix it next winter and make it stronger. I aint saying she a gold digger, but I'm betting it holds together pretty good for me. |
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West Central IA | Boone & Crockett - 2/23/2018 19:41
Outstanding work. Be great if you could get a little video of it running and post here. Thanks for sharing. Edit to add; would there be any advantage to applying a "V" to the front side? Would seem it would/could pull easier. Maybe you guys simply rely on brute force to overcome the resistance?
I thought the same thing on the front side, but after researching I found that the theory is that it is easier to lift the soil up than to split it and try stuff the 6" of soil off to the sides. |
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West Central IA | in the one pic you can see i used 3 pieces of 3/8 flat to make the bottom of the shank. It is shaped so the 4" tile will be mostly supported 1/3 of the way up from the bottom per tile mfg specs. I read a v in the bottom can let water run under the tile and wash out. I looked at a big gold digger and it had 4'' of flat on the bottom, but they have to work with 8" tile+. So i think my design will actually be superior because it is shaped specifically for 4" tile. But i'm no engineer or tiling expert...
As far a plans, I could give a rundown on what I did, but i'm not smart enough to run a cad program or whatever.
the main frame is 6x6x3/8 square tubing. I used all of a 24' stick, a 20 would probably come up short.
the brackets for the 3 pt, cylinder, and pivot are 5/8x6 flat. I think i have about 5' left over at this point.
I'd have to measure to check what widths I used for the bottom flat, I believe it was on 2.5" and two 2". I buy most of my material direct from state steel omaha.
The main pivot is 2" i.d. bushing. I originally used a 1 15/16 pin but wasnt happy with the amount of slop so I had a 2" shaft machined down .015", if i did it again I would have the bushing bored the .015.
The cylinder is a 6x20x3. I only needed 16" of stroke, but surplus center had the 20 for $385.... cheaper than I could buy a 5" with 16in stroke. Might be overkill on the cylinder but thats one thing I didnt want to undersize.
I can get more specific measurements etc if someone wants them, but I wouldn't recommend copying mine yet, as others pointed out, it may explode the first time it goes in the ground. I'll be sure to report back with how it works.
Edited by fox128 2/24/2018 08:58
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West Central IA | theres no question your's got the job done! I probably would not have considered building one if you didnt give it a shot first! Thanks for your willingness to give out your plans to so many people. |
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| I Guess I would have used 4 inch pipe cut in half for the bottom |
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Illinois | I personally think you killed it!!! It look great to me I’m sure there are a ton of guys like me that have wanted to do this but just don’t know where to start I would love to have the plans to it if your willing to share? My email is good would love to chat with you about it. |
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nw ohio | Put a plate on the sloped point that is wider that the shank. This will take the pressure off of the shoe and the shank by lifting the dirt from the bottom. It will pull better in dry dirt that fractures rather than wet that smeers. |
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Chaffee, Western New York | Moonlight,. I had a friend cut part for two when I built mine from X's plans. He had an employee do me the favor of adding some dimension to the holes and made all the holes oversized. He then cut the small parts to the plans. I have all the plasma cutter parts except the two large side plates.
Someone else was interested but at the time I'd hoped to make another.
The original NAT plow used 6" x1/2" wall. I still bent mine a little. |
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NE Iowa | Main vertical beam was 6"x6" with 1/2" wall. It makes the inside dimensions roughly 5"x5" which works good with 4" tile because 4" tile is actually 4.5" on the outside. If you have hundreds of acres to pattern tile and have a 450 Hp 4wd tractor then a $25,000 commercial plow is justifiable. But if you have a smaller tractor and just want to do your own a homemade plow can work. I did roughly 45,000' feet with mine and only had $1700 in materials. I saved about $30,000 doing it myself. I have no plans to do any custom tiling. My plow will sit in the corner of the shed retired unless I buy another farm that needs tile. |
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West Central IA | Hmmm I misunderstood your plans when it said 5x5 tubing, thought that was od. I’ll do a little more bracing to be safe. Thanks |
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NE Iowa | Vertical beam was 6x6 and horizontal is 5x5. Then they have the plates with holes on the outside of that so the 5 just slips into the 6. |
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West Central IA | Gotcha. I apparently didn’t read the plans good enough! I might burn this 6x5/8 in front and call it good.
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Morris, IL | I like that addition, soil max does something similar. Would you mind sharing what you have into this project? I bought a used soil max for 10k with all grade control parts to work with Integra/Paradyme we already owned. Of course if we didn’t have RTK I would look at it differently, but if you do can find used gradient around 2k with PWM valve and your running grade control. |
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West Central IA | I have about $650 in steel and $385 in the cylinder. Hoses, some machine work, and miscellaneous might amount to $200. So should easily be less than $1300. Hoping to end up with less than 2k in the stringer cart but we’ll see. 10k with intellesope had to be a good buy! Bet you’ve seen a great ROI with that setup and grade control is probably necessary out there
Not sure what you mean by used gradient? Is that a brand of a controller or something?
I have a 6500 on terrastar but no rtk. Like I said, most of my runs have enough grade it would be hard to mess up. If I want to start doing more on bottoms or something I’ll look into grade control
Edited by fox128 2/24/2018 19:33
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Morris, IL | Your did great, it will do just what you want. I thought of doing similar without grade control but wanted to do too much flat work. I though I could run flat ground with a inclinometer and water level, I only have water level on but I would have been dead wrong. Going up hill I think chain would be most useful.
Assuming you have Integra then gradient was the older system disregard that, cheaper probably just use agleader parts plug and play like all your other implements which is what I do.
I though it was good buy, it is just a 3 point and older pro plow but i’m happy with it. So far one tractor has pulled it 4’ deep with 6” boot. Have only ran few pickup loads of min rolls so far, 6” main and few 4” wet spot runs. I actually walked out today look at them we are quite wet here wanted to make sure looked ok. Great feeing seeing first ripen flowing don’t know why. You will spend 2x more time getting setup and getting supplies then you actually will putting tile in.
Edited by NEILFarmer 2/24/2018 20:46
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NE South Dakota Clark, SD | You need to move your rat guard in about another 6 inches or so. A coon will flip it up and crawl right in the way it is now. |
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| Not saying it's right or wrong in this case, but welding bracing in the center of the tube is usually not the best. Would be better to distribute the load to the corners of the tube. |
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West Central IA | Right that’s why i boxed the back like I did but I’m thinking down the center will make the shank below the pivot strong enough that my pivot will surely be the weak spot |
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Minnesota | . |
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| Hi - By any chance, do you have the tile plow blueprints for this build and if so, mind if i could get them? [email protected] |
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West Central IA | 17281x has plans for the one he built get ahold of him. The only blueprints for mine are in my head lol |
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central WI | Agree! That wad the first thing i thought when i saw this pic. Always try to put the bolt as far up the pipe as you can reach. Critters are sneaky little devils! |
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Central Iowa | Would you be willing to share your plans for the plow still? |
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NE Iowa | Just need an email address to send to. |
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| I would like a set of your plans please
[email protected] |
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| Can I get a copy of your plans
[email protected]
Thank you |
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| I would like to get a set ot the plans for this. [email protected]. Thanks |
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Built a tile plow...pics
