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Tuning up a JD 643 corn head Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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ryank |
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SE Nebraska | I've got an older high tin corn head. The snouts are really old, really worn. I 've debated several years putting on poly snouts. Where is the best, most cost effective place to get a poly snout kit? Also have debated putting oil bath drives on. It looks like the tin covers can be had aftermarket for $120+/_. If I put the tin covers on, how do I seal up the side of the head to keep the oil in and the dirt out? There will be the slot where the chain adjustment idler slides, and I think maybe another hole or 2. I know i could seal it up with some good silicon. But in the case of the chain idler. That will need to be moved up and down. Not really lending itself to a permanent seal of silicon. Thanks for your time | ||
CornFed13 |
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Pickens | Following, (Listening_Learning.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Listening_Learning.jpg (13KB - 70 downloads) | ||
fastdeere |
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We went with gvl poly. They work well. We also put new snapping rollers on and then plasma cut windows like calmer does. Put on the calmer gathering chain sprocket to slow them down. Put the deck plates tighter than what Deere calls for. I believe we did an inch in the front and an inch and a quarter in the back but don't remember exactly right now. We also moved the head drive gears as calmer says to do I believe we went 1to 1. After we did all that we now drive faster and it feeds better with less header loss. | |||
ryank |
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SE Nebraska | I put hydraulic deck plates on this head in 2012. This is the primary reason I'm keeping this head vs finding something like a 693 with the poly and other goodies on it already. | ||
Buster 50 |
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North West IA/western AZ | I had gvl on one, but was a little disappointed in the speed it wore holes thru. After I put stainless patches on, it was fine. Just not sure their plastic is as thick. | ||
WTF2014 |
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CIL | Before going through all of that, check prices on a 90 series head. Don't know what combine you are running it on now, but also an opportunity to move to single point hookup and possibly the pto style shafts if you haven't yet. Last time I priced a poly kit for our 643, that alone made upgrading to a 90 series much more attractive. Edited by WTF2014 8/20/2017 04:48 | ||
BHTN |
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West Tennessee | We looked at both of those options on our old 644 over the years. We decided that just welding some stainless patches along the worn out edges was good enough for us. We only run about 500 acres through ours though. It's also a 4 row converted to a 6 row and so not worth much money for sure. We felt like we'd have a hard time getting the chain covers to seal up and not leak. We just oil them along during harvest. We do replace the chains somewhat regularly though and if you can make the oil bath thing work you could probably run the chains about forever. | ||
deeretech14 |
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SW Ohio | I would seriously look at trading heads for the amount of work you're going to do. You can also take your hyd deck plate stuff and move it to the new one if it doesn't already have it. We had GVL on a lo tin oil bath 643, it was better than steel but I didn't like the flat place at the rear of the poly that seemed to collect ears that would just ride there for days on end it seemed like, until you crossed a washout. Running a late 693 now with factory poly. It was getting thin in places so we put lankota stainless pieces on, works great for us. | ||
NEILFarmer |
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Morris, IL | I don't know man, i think i'd look at trading for 693 myself. We have a 1983 or so 643 had since couple years old. Few years ago we rebuilt it quite a bit. Put new B&R welding stalk rollers on it which at the time were $185 a row. Few other wear parts on it from Brent (B&R Welding), chains, wear blocks, and guide blocks. Also found set of used poly from agtalker in Ohio for pretty good deal and went with it. If your talking new poly wouldn't have happened, just too much to put into an old head in my opinion. Let alone yours is older, non oil bath, and probably has 10 more years wear on it. This is link to project. https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=498933&mid=405... Link to B&R welding website. I think he has some prices on there not sure on everything. If i was doing it again i'd ask him about maybe just tapered rolls like came factory on 643 ground to point instead of true knife roll. He talks about options and reasons in that video. He said as long as we are running 7720 won't have any problems with cluster gear and so far i think he's right. Talked to lot of guys all said same thing work great till got bigger combine. https://www.brweld.com/ Here is a nice newer 643 might be something to consider i don't know. Our 643 looked exactly like this one, prefect straight tin all around, pretty good shape no welds besides that one spot they all crack. If you put poly on something like this you can actually get decent money for steel as guys that have worn out ones want replacement. I got 500$ for the center 5 and gave the sides to uncle to put on his high tin 444. Later found out guy who bought it on this sale bought it for the nice end snouts. https://talk.newagtalk.com/classifieds/Classified.aspx?id=86218 Probably better to just fine 693 tho just option. Edited by NEILFarmer 8/20/2017 16:53 | ||
kversh |
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We put the gvl poly kit on a few years back and am very happy with it. Run it on a 9560 so also added the height sensing kit I believe from lankota, may have been headsight, don't remember. I just got done adding hydraulic deck plates and all new chains, sprockets, and tensioners on mine. Hopefully gonna see less header loss this fall. | |||
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