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SW Indiana | Would like some pictures of what you have done. I'd like to build a narrow row planter, thinking I could build something nicer than what I could buy on my budget. Just did a quick tractor house search and would like to start with something like these pictures below. A 1760 8 row wide, the wings are easy, mount a unit in between the 2 existing ones. Ideas on the back is what I need. Do you add a 7X7 bar on the back to add the additional units on the back?
Just looking for ideas, I don't have a planter to start with and thinking this might be next winters shop project.
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Central Wi | We did out of a 7200 8 row wide.
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| Not sure that would be the first planter I would start from scratch to build a bean planter with. I'd plant 30's before the aggravation. |
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45 miles south spingfield il. | I took a 12 row cut it down to 11 row bought bridge hitches from Harris Alexander Il. Ran it for several years, the biggest drawback was transport width. |
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Central Wi | We found some units off a 1780 that we used on back bar. I was nervous about the weight on lift wheels. But figured if they are the same as a 12 row that could have fert on it would be ok. It is heavy on rear when unfolded. Folded it's pretty balanced. I won't put bigger boxes on it. Rebuilt it completely when we did it. New bushings openers etc. Bought dp springs and a 350 monitor off the classifieds. Had a monitor harness made by ag express I think? It's planted about 900 acres in last 3 years with only issue being bearings in used Shoup Coulters. I won't buy them again. Go with Deere coulters. We pull it with a 5088 IH. We probably have $14g tied up in it. More than planned. |
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SW Indiana | I really like that setup, hadn't even thought of putting all the units on the bar behind the wheels. Was trying to figure out a way to put seed in the boxes on the original bar after adding the back bar. Thanks for your pictures. |
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SW Indiana | So I'm guessing that means 3 bushel boxes wouldn't be a good idea? Not sure what they would cost but that idea was running through my head as well. |
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St George IL | I built this not long after I started farming as my poor man's splitter. I now have a 3600 Kinze but the 5 row I built got turned into a 4 row for replanting wet holes and sweet corn. It did it's job on a shoe string budget.
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Central Wi | Easier to fill this way. We try to be close to empty when transporting. Also I don't think any wider would work unless land was pretty flat. |
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SW Indiana | After looking at your pictures some more, is there a reason you couldn't put the back bar a foot or so closer to the front bar? Looks like plenty of room between the back bar and the lift wheels. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | I've done it on a JD 7200 8 row wide ( =15 row 19" pull-type) and wouldn't probably go that route, again. I think I would start out planning on a single straight bar, with planter's large gauge wheels out front, maybe 3 point hitch style. (keep all row units in line, or maybe vary short and long parallel arms) Probably 3" rubber gauge wheel tires, too, on sides of Double-disk openers. Maybe stack fold, or something. If no-till and/or drive on sidehills and contours, you will have problems with trash clearance, with soybeans after corn.(using trash whippers) I'm at 19" and would consider 22" as next step, for clearance WITH curves and contours = If I was "flat land", then 19"-20" would probably be acceptable, in old No-till corn stalks.(perfect driving and miss old corn root balls) On my wings units, with 7" setback (long parallel arms) I tried narrow row trash whippers, (advertised for 15"-20") and also Narrow rubber planter gauge wheels (3" verses 4.5" = increases room for trash between units) and I still plugged = had to remove those "center trash whippers", on wings, and use just a straight No-till coulter on that center row unit and live with a little hair-pinning, of debris, on each center row of those wing units. There is someone on here, from Wisconsin or Michigan, that skips trash whippers altogether, and only uses no-till coulters( and they are happy), but I only see hair-pinning and tried NEW "sharp" coulters also. (note: I tried both, at first, and added weight to toolbar and still couldn't get all the metal, into the ground, consistently, so I removed all No-till coulters and stayed with as many trash whippers as I could.) I have since, gone to Calmers BT shoppers, on combine corn head, and didn't have any plugging issues, last 2 years. Earlier Note: Plugging issues, are the worse, if too damp, or after sun goes and about 45 minutes later, if it is damp outside, you may start to have issues, before with original JD stalk rolls on corn head. Now, If it is windy and decent, I can go all night, until 3 AM ; but then I get too tired. If you open cab's rear window, you can listen to the old corn stalks, while planting, and if they "crackle" everything is OK. (dry and crisp sound) Those are some of my opinions and experiences. I did like narrow row soybeans, and the guys that do some tillage and have 15" rows, their beans do canopy before mine, and look great if tillage was an option. Some of the guys on river bottoms, still stuck with 30" beans = didn't see the need for narrow rows, on their beautiful soil. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Nice job, I like that simple modification design, on a pull-type 7200, it looks better designed than what I did.(15 row 19" planter) My original plan, was to leave "tramlines" for tractor tires but when February came around, I decided to built 2 more brackets and add row units behind tractor tires, also. |
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ec. nebr. | Planter like in your first picture, I took the lift wheels & turned them around to stick out front. Was 8-38- I put row units in between each one. Had to put long arms on center row to straddle transmission. |
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Cherokee County, Northwest Iowa | built this splitter bar 20 years ago, because we have so many terraces designed for 8 row wide. Bought an 8 row narrow 7100 planter, patterned arms after a White planter.
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SW Indiana | flyboytoo - 3/20/2017 00:39
Planter like in your first picture, I took the lift wheels & turned them around to stick out front. Was 8-38- I put row units in between each one. Had to put long arms on center row to straddle transmission.
How do the wheels clear the row units on the wings when you fold? |
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Central Wi | In the pics when planter is raises it looks like rear bar could be closer. But when it's lowered wheels get pretty close to rear bar. I think we could a been about 3" shorter is what we figured after we got it tacked together. I guess I measured when frame was lower than we needed. Once the units were on the wheels didn't come up as high as I thought they would. Someone mentioned tram lines. We are at 18" on all rows. 1st year spaying with 18.4's we damaged 2-3 rows spraying. 2nd year we put 14.9's on tractor and still damaged a row of beans because our MX doesn't have axles and we can't get just the right width. We're going to a 60ft sprayer and plan to add 6' to the booms for beans and make 20" on our wheel tracks so we can stay off beans and make it easier spraying. The planter is 22' wide. We never tried 30" beans on our farm but guys around us are having good luck the last couple years. We have such a wide range of soil that we are never done planting corn when we can start planting beans somewhere. We prefer to have 2 planters and this was cheaper than a Kinze 6/11 or 8/15. We probably could a bought a 1780 for what we have in this. |
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Hopkinsville, KY | I've been toying with the same idea. I've had a few idea but mostly those that were much work. I like some of those I've saw here. |
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Callao Missouri | I have built two. First was an IH 800 8 row end transport. It turned into an 8/15 end transport. Last year I took a CIH 950 12 row front fold and turned it into 12/23. Have about three days labor & $2500 in each conversion. Not counting original planter purchase.
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swohio | How wide do want to go? Mine is 20', would like to go to 30', but the wider you go, the more challenge's there are. I have built many. Finally last year built one out of IH Cyclo boxes and White 5100 row units. Next winter I'm going to put on the IH units. The "new" one is at 20". can put all units on one bar. I do have row cleaners and had no trouble last year. I will try to get some pictures today. Good part of 20's are easier to work on and on one bar. 15's on one bar in no-till is plugging and hard to work on. Bad part of 20" beans with 30" corn is post spraying. Wheel spacing on tractor and sprayer is taking some doing. Like the 2 box fill on the cyclo, and very easy to run hoses to each row. |
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Republic OH (NC OH) | here are some pictures of an older post on
the bean planter we put together.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=243243
good luck! |
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| Everyone to their own, but here are my thoughts. 1) You can negotiate a pretty good used 15" bean planter now without spending a lot of money, especially if you don't have a trade. This will have support and parts when you need them. The Kinze would be a place to start if you want a pivot fold with lots of clearance between front and back gangs for residue and row cleaners. Look on tractorhouse for price guide or go to auctions. 2) Just about every project we have custom built has gone way over budget on money (and time), to the point you could have bought one for less. 3) You better be ready to keep your custom built planter as the resale $$ will be very low. |
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ec. nebr. | You can not let the planter down with the wings folded. I modify the catch also out about 2in. when folded to help clear wheels. |
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SW Indiana | Thanks,
Makes sense |
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Ludington/Manistee MI area | Way not fancy but I have a 7100 on 19's low dollar and works for me. |
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McCanna, ND | If you have some decent size fields and want to crank some acres out you could do what we are. We took a Deere 787 and toolbar we stripped the cultivator frame. Putting on 32 row planter units to make a twin row planter. Using the air cart for seed metering and blowing it into the row unit seed tube. Light weight and should cover some acres in a day |
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Dallas Center IA 515-720-2463 | 15 row at 16” built from a John Deere 7000 12 row 30 non folding.
First four, then for year two six wheels mounted in front of the toolbar.
Plus a wheel behind at each end.
Reasoning was to help with the negative tongue weight problem when raised. It helps but does not eliminate the problem.
The transmission was removes [cut off] from the position behind the toolbar center. Transmission is now on top of the toolbar, part of the Jamision contact wheel drive.
16” is pretty close for 7000 units. Factory seed box lids will not stay on at 16”. I now have every other box a narrow one from Shoup. Hold 2.4 bu, NLA from Shoup.
I think 7200 units go 15” OK.
I have every other row set back about 5”. Homemade deal.
Narrow gauge wheels on every other row. Will replace with all narrow as needed.
Mounts to the toolbar are very close at 16”. I now have a way to make them much easier.
The extra wheels at the end, plus the markers make the thing about 24’ going down the road. Really the state highway with it’s wide shoulders is OK, just not during rush hour.
On gravel roads I keep my eyes open for traffic, both oncoming and behind. Find a drive to pull into.
There is a Kinze push unit mounted. Just a trial for the next model. Never have got around to building it.
In picture the center box is missing. I lost one lid. So empty one row and leave hopper off overnight.
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| I know many on here like to build there own stuff but if you put a want ad on craigslist for a 7000 bean planter you will get a lot of calls. |
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SCWisconsin | I chose a Deere 1780, 12/23 Planter to convert to narrow row. A 16/31 would work also.
Following are my basic reasons regarding my choice.
1). 1780's are reasonably priced. (Freisen Toolbar), and most are modern enough to have Max Emerge Plus row units with polly boxes. Loaded down with liquid tanks made them submarines due to the transport wheels in front of toolbar, taking away ALL Tractor draw bar weight. In my application I have no liquid tanks, nor very few wet acres. Thus 1780's became unpopular, and pricing favorable.
2). You can move row units around almost without any modifications. (I had to modify a few row unit u-bolts, and a couple seed shaft chain tensioners). I removed 5 row units, total, ending up with an 18 row 20" machine.
3). The existing wiring harness works, just need to shut off 5 (deleted) rows on monitor. Deere makes a 20" chart for seed pop that you can adhere to frame, or you can simply use the formula supplied in the manual.
A few pics. I did this over several years. First the 20" conversion; pretty simple, then the CCS mega project. The last pic you will see I went nuts and put a CCS on this planter. (Works excellent / just more time than you can imagine).
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Central Illinois | Have built 2 so far. First was a JD 7000 8R36 with manual wing fold. Made it in to a 13R18 skiprow . Just added a row unit to each wing and made extension frame boxes
around 2 ground wheels and the center transmission.
The 2nd one started as a new Case-IH 955 PFF 12R30 planter. Every thing on this planter including the row units, seed transmissions, wing lift wheels and the bulk seed modules bolted on with u-bolts. Cut the frame down to 24' and added 5 more row units to end up with 15R18. All the split rows had the factory longer parallel linkage to add some stagger for trash clearance. Made a cat walk across the back so you could walk between the hoppers which made it easy when filling the hoppers. Will try to post pics if I can find them.
Edited by steve c-il 3/20/2017 10:34
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| If I was going to build another one I'd find a 12 row end transport 800 or 900 planter, flip the lift wheels around to the front of the frame and slide the row units down to 20" spacing, would take much work at all to build a 12 row 20" planter. |
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| This is what I had. 17 row on 18", manual wing fold. Putting together another one that will be 15 row on 18", hydraulic wing fold.
Todd
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| Are those shoup downpressure springs on that planter? Were they enough to keep the row units and coulter in the ground under the conditions in the pic? |
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| They are the heavy duty kit from Shoup. They were okay most of the time. The one I'm building now has the JD heavy duty from the factory set-up.
Todd |
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central Wisconsin | in response on how to get seed in front boxes and sorry about bad picture. this one is 7000 parts and used a 5x7 bar on the back and cut insecticide brackets off and got distance of 15 inches from back of seed box to back of rear seed drive shaft on rear frame. it is quite easy to get seed in front boxes over rear frame.
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Central Wi | You ever have issues with the wheels? Bending frames or bearing issues? That's the only thing that I get nervous about. With 9 units on my rear bar it just seems awful heavy. No problems in 3 years though. |
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| Have never had any issues.
Todd |
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Anybody on here build a bean planter?
