|
|
| What is th John Deere correct method to get it rephrased and ground height 20 to 22 inches
Where is it in the manuals
When done correctly how many inches DOWN stroke does each cylinder have before bottom out of stroke?
Is there a concrete bottom line answer
Edited by old boy 1/2/2017 18:05
|
|
| |
|
South East Illinois | Take the stops of that are held on with hose clamps. Raise up and hold hydraulic lever for a count of 30-40. Then down for a count of 30-40. Do it couple of times then put stops back on and should be good to go. Holding hydraulic lever gets everything rephrased
Good luck |
|
| |
|
| Little Duck - 1/2/2017 18:23
Take the stops of that are held on with hose clamps. Raise up and hold hydraulic lever for a count of 30-40. Then down for a count of 30-40. Do it couple of times then put stops back on and should be good to go. Holding hydraulic lever gets everything rephrased
Good luck
What about bleeding cylinders for air from bleeders
Will ground height be correct
|
|
| |
|
South East Illinois | Rephrasing should take care of air
By holding lever it pushes oil through the system removing air. If that makes sense. You can bleed each one but will still need to repose to get it to run level side to sides |
|
| |
|
| Those master cylinders are single acting cylinders, oil from try raises, weight of the planter lowers. Each master cylinder is actually two cylinders sharing a ram. Rephrasing replenishes the oil that has either leaked out after the cylinder or has leaked by the piston inside the cylinder. The only way to get the air out is to loosen the bleeders while holding the planter to raise while doing it. If oil just needs to be replenished it doesn't need to be bled to remove air. Air is introduced when replacing hose or repairing cylinders. |
|
| |
|
| On our old 7200, we always took the two clamps off, then raised and held, but when you left it back down the center was always high. We always then bled oil out of the center cylinders to level the center with the wings. Don't know if that was proper, but that's the way we always did it, and ran it that way for 15 years. It always maintained level for the season. Never worried about frame height other than to make sure it was level across.
Edited by thefarmers 1/2/2017 20:26
|
|
| |
|
| Remove front split collars, raise planter full up. crack bleeders at longest distance from master cylinder 1st, then work your way inward. Depending on how much air was introduced into system, may have to repeat a few more times.
BE AWARE of where you are standing, so you are clear of moving parts / wheels as planter is lowered.
I treat the bleeders like brake bleeders on a vehicle, get a deep ( 3/8 or 7/16 ? ) 6 point socket to fit over the bleeder and just try and barely tighten 1st to see if it will break loose.
If the bleeders are seized, just BE SURE TO RELIEVE PRESSURE of hydraulic system BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO APPLY HEAT !!!!!, so, best to remove the supply line, and drain the cylinders of oil.
Once they are loose, then proceed to bleed. I use a piece of clear tubing that fits snugly over the bleeder and then drop that tube ( I think mine is like 18" long ) into a can or bucket.
I actually like to go as far as remove each one and either replace if rusty ( they dont cost that much ) and apply nevr sieze to the threads.
Now use a wrench and bleed the system, you will easily see the bubbles and foam, and bleed till gone.
Another thing I check...lube the wheel lift arms pivots and the lift cylinder pivot pins, sometimes when those get dry / rusty, especially when planter has set for a while, you can get enough friction / binding that the planter can struggle lowering correctly, thus making bleeding more difficult.
After thorough bleeding, I'll raise and lower planter say like 15-20 times, checking for levelness and on the larger planters like a 12 or 16 row, sometimes will bleed another time if there is some sagging. If the sagging continues and does not want to work itself out, then a lot of times you have an internal leak in the system.
If the wings still want to sag, or more so if one wing more than another, if it is a flex or front fold planter, check the routing of hoses at the folding frame pivots, I have seen some get pulled so tight that the hoses were pinched, resulting in poor flow. This problem can be sometimes be identified 2 ways, wings going up slow and dropping slow.
Also I have better luck when bleeding with warm oil versus cold oil, so let the tractor warm up and running a jumper hose in a SCV will help bring the temp up quicker.
More thoughts come to me as I type...the master cylinder will have screens for the hose ports, make sure they are clean of debris before you start, especially if the master has been rebuilt, and also is a easy check if having raise / lowering issues.
Make sure to reinstall the collars back on the master cylinder.
Just some ideas.
|
|
| |
|
Gladwin Mi | If the wheel cylinders are two way not just float down. Set the hyd flow real low with clamps off main cyl and the hyd flowing so that the planter is raising up continually. Get a 5/16 for the bleeder on the top of cyls and a small hose and crack the until the oil comes out clear. Not milky beacuse of the air. |
|
| |
|
WCOH | On our 7200 12 row we only need to bleed when something has been taken apart to let the air out. Other wise once a year or occasionally mid season we just remove the collars and raise up and down holding the lever for a few seconds in each direction. For some reason if I fold it up every night we don't need to cycle. If I leave it set spread out in the field I have to cycle to rephase. |
|
| |
Master cylinder 7000,7200 correct procedure I rephasing
