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Morris, Mb. | We have a summers super chisel and have always had it equipped with sweeps for fall tillage. It is 42' and 12" spacing. I am looking at putting 3" twisted chisel points on it for breaking up some grass fields and for following corn. We would then follow the chisel plow with some sort of VT tool. We hope to loosen the ground some with the chisel plow so the VT tool will work better. We will be pulling with a 450 quadtrac. Nobody around me runs chisel points on there chisel plows. How fast and deep do you generally want to run them? Any other things to watch out for? |
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Texas/New Mexico Stateline | Things to look out for is it will pull like an anchor if you set it for any depth at all.
We do a lot of similar tillage, but instead of pulling 42' I can barely pull 22' with 300hp. I try to get it at least 8" deep, but sometimes just can't pull it. We have very tight clay/loam soil. Twisted points pull the hardest of all. I almost always have straight 2" points with a hard surface. Twisted points cover up too much residue to suit my situation.
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| We always tried to run them at least 8" deep. We ran 16" sweeps on our disc chisel sometimes, ran them around 8" deep also. Not sure if one pulled any harder than the other. We pulled a 11' 3" disc chisel with a 225 pto hp tractor. But either way, i know here, you'd be lucky to pull half the width your talking if you put it down 8". |
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United States | I pull a 21.5 foot disc chisel in the fall and use 2 inch points . Take all 320 HP for it , I have used 3 inch concave twisted in fall corn stalks then we'd field cultivator in the spring . We usually plow as deep as we can pull it 8 or 10 inches is about it.
Byron ecin |
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CDN | First off, our definition of chisel plowing is probably called a field cultivator in much of the U.S.. Depth will depend on your topsoil, we typically go to 4-5" or else it starts ribboning out clay. This is usually 7hp/ft at 6.2mph. I like the incorporation of the twisty shovels, just make sure you buy the thicker ones 1/2" ones and turn them around when they start breaking the tips off. For breaking hayland, I'd use a disc or plow + disc first. |
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Franklinton, LA | Your tractor will have over 10 HP per foot so it will probably pull your chisel plow. The extra draft from the wider points will probably cause the springs on the shank mounts to compress more than normal. This will usually change the angle at which the points enter the soil. If the angle of attach increases too much the chisel plow will tend to dig in and then jump. Sometimes you can adjust the compression of the springs and solve this problem. Reducing travel speed will also help solve this problem. I know of people who have replaced the springs with a piece of tubing to maintain the proper point entry angle. This will work great until you hit a rock. |
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ND | For years all we ran was 3" twist shovels with the last ones being JD concave 3" Twist-they are twice the price & last twice as long-lately have been running regular spike ones, twist gets so rough a ground to go over twice or 2 passes & rougher when its wet & those lumps don't break down fast enough in this Gumbo ground. The JD Tru-Depth chisel plows have 1250 Lb point pressure & the regular chisel plows have only 600 lbs but Summers are good as well. In corn ground with a chopping cornhead run a super heavy disc & a Disc-ripper as a second pass. |
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ND | We run about 7 to 9 inches deep & around 5 to 6 mph. |
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NW MN | For your grass ground you are breaking, unless it has been dead for a few months I would skip the chisel plow and just use your vertical till tool 3 times on it. In my experience chisel plows and live grass don't mix unless you like dealing with mounds of sod everywhere. A lot of CRP has come out around here and what looks the best and most efficient spray out and then 3 passes with a Salford RTS and it's ready for spring. |
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| Might as well just moldboard plow it. |
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Chisel plowing questions
