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4020 LP
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intheshop
Posted 8/7/2016 17:41 (#5456274)
Subject: 4020 LP


I have an auction near me next weekend that has a 4020 propane on it, I think a 1965 model, synchro, says has been repainted, although I am not sure how it looks in person. We need a chore / utility / auger tractor on the farm, and are wondering if this would be a good fit. Hood looks bad with the huge LP tank sticking up, but we won't be taking it to a field where visibility would be an issue. We have a family friend whose business is delivering LP , so refills should not be an issue. The propane thing should make it sell cheaper than a diesel or gas one, right? Not sure how to post a clickable link, but www.foxauctioncompany.com Bob Harman estate will get you there. Thoughts?

Thank you
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ccjersey
Posted 8/7/2016 18:09 (#5456319 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Faunsdale, AL
Do you have propane on the farm already? If you could get a liquid valve installed in a storage tank, you could always fill it by bleeding vapor if you get caught short.

Personally I would rather have an LP than gasoline, but I have been dealing with it for many years. Can be a bit of a learning curve.
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Gerald J.
Posted 8/7/2016 18:24 (#5456348 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



One of the beauties of running on LP is that the crankcase oil stays clean a very long time, so wear is smaller than a gas tractor.

Be sure to get the owner's manual for that vintage and version, there were three different pre side console operator's manuals because of changes, like air filters and starting switch.

My '68 manual calls for a special operating procedure for the LP 4020. When stopping it shut off the vapor and liquid tank valves and run it until it runs out of fuel. To start open ONLY the vapor valve, and let it idle a while to warm up the coolant so the coolant can vaporlze the liquid. There won't be enough vapor to run it loaded very long. When the coolant is up in temperature, open the liquid valve and close the vapor valve.

There is a connection for a BBQ tank also which the factory used to move the tractor out of the factory and onto the delivery truck. You can also use that to get back to the LP tank at the house for filling with the liquid tap. It will use LP like mine uses gas and that can be at least a tank a day while working it hard plowing.

At old age the diaphragms in the pressure regulators do go bad. So they might need to be replaced.

Gerald J.
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george10
Posted 8/7/2016 18:41 (#5456380 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Ran one for quite a few years as chore tractor, with a loader. It was a '64 with a PS. Best thing would be to convert to electronic ignition. that is one of the trouble spots. Even though propane makes good power, that tractor always seemed doggy, PS might have contributed to that. They usually are are good starters in cold weather. Gerald J had good advice. The BBQ tank deal will help, but as soon as you take it out of the yard it will run out of fuel. Need a portable tank of some sort. Ours had a good working fuel gauge and we would still run it out. I would say it would bring 50 to 75% of what a comparable diesel would. Impco makes regulators and we had converted some older LP tractors to those instead of trying to fix the leaking diaphrams. 4020 never needed it.
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AR Plowboy
Posted 8/7/2016 20:00 (#5456535 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



East Central Arkansas

I have two we farmed with for years that are just mainly used for garden tractors now. One is like a 66 and has the hydraulic levers on the dash and the other is a newer one with the hydraulic levers on a side console. I much prefer the side console to the ones on the dash. Must have been a long armed fellow that put those on the dash. With plenty of good info from this site on how to keep them running it could make you a good tractor if it's been taken care of. I would agree on installing the electronic ignition. It want take very many sets of points and condensers to pay for it. Need to keep good sparkplugs in it and the gap set right for the LP engine. If it has the single 12 V long battery on it take it off and replace that JD side box with a tray that will hold a regular size truck and tractor battery so you can have a battery with higher cranking amps. If you have to replace any of the propane stuff don't try getting it through JD. There are places on line that have what you would need and some of them can give you good info. It might take a little creative thinking and stuff might look a little different than the original but you can make it work.

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rancherman
Posted 8/7/2016 20:02 (#5456539 - in reply to #5456380)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



The  gas grill bottle  will  run it for almost an hour..  usually   plenty to get it back 'home'.    I'll just   set the  bottle  on the  platform and  run the hose  to the   tank fill port.       Having  a lot of spare  fittings  laying around helps on  finagling  fill hoses  up.   Make sure to use  brass  fittings,  and  not   anhydrous  fittings  for  spark prevention.

Like  CCjersey,  I too   just  fill out of the liquid side of the   nurse  tank,  and  vent  vapor  to atmosphere.   You  can  use just the  liquid  level  screw  to let   vapor off,   but  when you are in a hurry,   I made a fitting  that   fits  the actual  vapor-return-to  nurse tank...  and   it's  very  handy to have a   hose attached  to  that,  to blow out the radiator!!   (just  don't fill a running tractor)  LOL

I've   carted  mindless   number of   100#  cylinders  out to fill in the field too.  (which I've filled in my yard)     You'll know  when you are about to run out of  fuel;   WOT  is  gone,  but  runs  fine at  lower throttle,  and  lower and lower,  until it just  quits!  I've limped home  3-4 miles  many a time!

Yes,  the propane  tractor should  be  cheaper to buy  than it's  diesel  brother.  Upgrading to electronic  ignition  is  money well spent too.

Usually  have plenty of  vapor to run,  especially for a  chore tractor, or hayfield tractor...  it's only  when  working  pretty hard,  or  extremely cold weather  is  when  the liquid  side  needs   opened.  (  my  tank valves  are  probably  'shot'..  and   totally  shutting it  off  makes no difference!)

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intheshop
Posted 8/7/2016 20:03 (#5456541 - in reply to #5456319)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


We have a 1000 gallon in the yard for the house, not sure how to tap off of that, though. Wouldn't I need some kind of pump since the tank is on the ground and the tractor is so much higher?
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Tractor Jockey
Posted 8/7/2016 20:07 (#5456549 - in reply to #5456380)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Walla Walla, WA
my father purchased one new in 1965. We filled it off the grain dryer tank by venting the vapor. Was an excellent tractor and we always thought that the fuel usage was very economical. Doing chores and pto work like bailing hay, grinding feed, and pulling a disc, we would run 1 to 1 1/2 days on a fill. We had a crank failure at 300 hours due to our supplier Skelly Oil having the wrong labeling on the pails of oil. After that we ran it over 14000 hours. Yes the fuel tank looks odd but at least it is away from the operators station. If it is over filled and the temperature get hot the relief valve will vent, where the 620 tank set just in front of the steering wheel, and when it vented it would scare the daylights out of me...Paul
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AR Plowboy
Posted 8/7/2016 20:10 (#5456554 - in reply to #5456541)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



East Central Arkansas

You have to have a valve and hose on the liquid tap of the tank. The liquid will transfer to the tank you are filling when you bleed vapor from it. I am pretty sure that wouldn't be a approved way to do it anymore.

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Tractor Jockey
Posted 8/7/2016 20:14 (#5456564 - in reply to #5456541)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Walla Walla, WA
Also you do not need a pump to fill with. Even in the winter I do not remember having any problem just having a hose from the liquid side of the big tank attached to the tractor and we just vented using the small vapor "vents when full" valve. One needs to always wear gloves and do not allow any liquid to get on your skin. Paul
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flatlander2010
Posted 8/7/2016 20:17 (#5456568 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Never dealt with one till this summer. Guy was runnin it on a 10x61 auger. Said 10k plus hrs untouched
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intheshop
Posted 8/7/2016 20:47 (#5456645 - in reply to #5456274)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP


Thanks for all the input! Sounds like I need to see if it has electronic ignition, and make a call to see about getting a hookup to our house tank. Will this 4020 have the same power as any other 4020, gas or diesel?
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AR Plowboy
Posted 8/8/2016 08:05 (#5457184 - in reply to #5456645)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



East Central Arkansas

 My 4020 operators manual shows 94 hp for Syncro-Range in diesel, gas or propane but in the power shift it shows 91, 88 and 90 respectively. Those are PTO hp. The drawbar is 78, 75 and 79 for the powershift. It doesn't show drawbar for the syncro-range.

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rancherman
Posted 8/8/2016 09:58 (#5457300 - in reply to #5456645)
Subject: RE: 4020 LP



Power wise,    I gotta admit  the  dang thing  does pretty  well!   Pull the knob out and  let it rip.   

When I first got mine,  the  governor  was  out of  whack,  and    was   way slow to  react,  both  going  'up' and  coming 'down'.   

FIL has several  4010's  propane,  and  I can  feel  the  difference  between the  models  power wise. and  my  4020.    I  think the   diesel would probably  win out  in  a  down and dirty  lug fest,  but  keep the  rpm up in a spark ignited  engine  and   should be  even-steven. 

I like using the propane  inside the shed to auger  grain piled  inside..  I know it'll still  kill  me  being in the building  too long,  but at least  I can see  out the door!

Cost about  120 bucks  to convert to  electronic ignition.  



Edited by rancherman 8/8/2016 10:00
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