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Pulaski, TN | Ready to put the blocks under my 27'bin. I forgot to count them and draw a diagram when I moved the bin. The floor in this bin has the wide corrogated sheets. How many blocks do I need? How far apart do they need to be spaced? Thanks!! |
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curtice,ohio | i just took out 270 8" blocks out of a 21 ' bin yesterday. they are stacked 2 high. there is an outer ring right next to the bin wall and the rows are on about 22" center to center. the rows run parallel to the unloading tube |
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| Best thing you could do is get rid of that setup and put in a flat floor with steel supports. |
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Chebanse, IL..... | Eddy Maybe you have a good reason, but why are you using cement blocks? I assume you're putting wood planks on top of the blocks to support the metal sheets? I personally think the newer, modern, & very light stamped metal stands would be better. We had a couple older bins w/cement blocks & when we updated the bins, we installed the stamped metal supports. They only weigh a couple of ounces each & should last forever, I'd guess. You can bend them & twist w/a pliers if needed, but normally just clip them in & continue. I'm not sure who all has them, but I do know they're available from both Brock bins & GSI bins. Again-that's here. Maybe you have a very good reason for staying w/the blocks though. 
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East of Dowagiac Michigan | I went and looked at mine it is a 27' x6 ring Butler and originally had a stirator. I have 16 rows of 10" blocks (spaced 4-8" apart) with 2x6s. I also have the wavy flooring that came in aprox. 4'x10' sheets.
Hope this helps. |
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Cecilia, KY ©® | Ron, have you ever worked on a floor with those supports ? I have 2 GSI bins with the supports & thought they were ok till I had to work on a bin 2 years ago because some of the stands were rusting and the floor was sagging really was a pain to take apart and put back together . I am in the process of moving 7 bins and love how easy the floors are to remove with blocks and put back together. I just put up a new brock with a different support system looks good and easy to work with .
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Chebanse, IL..... | Ironically, we've spent the past couple days of this past week adding 2 rings to a 15 yrs old GSI. It was 8r, we made it 10r. Doing that called for extra floor supports & stiffeners. So, we had to remove the old floor totally & put it back in w/more supports. There is a "trick" to popping out the old supports. The newly added supports are identical. On Monday we'll start doing same to another GSI. It's a couple yrs newer. The new Brock floor supports look interesting. I believe they switched to them the year after we built the bin in the earlier photo I posted. The following photos were taken on 8/15/08 inside the 15 yr old bin. 
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Cecilia, KY ©® | Did you have any trouble taking apart or going back together ? The bin I worked on was put up in 1981 & I only went about a third across the floor maybe a little further and I was really pissed by the time I finally got it back together . I think we might have sprung the supports and the floor while taking apart so that might have been the trouble . |
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Northeast Illinois | If you don't mind me asking- who is your goto guy for bin steel, vents, stiffeners, etc. . I'm up near Plainfield-Joliet and I got a bin I'd like to improve a little before harvest and I'd need a few parts. Also what are you using for bin jacks? have access to the old hand winches mounted on a a-frame, just wondering if thats what you use. --- Greg |
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Central Iowa | eddy i don't think many people here relize what you have for a floor. Most people think the only thing out there for areation floors or the 7 in. boards. But from what i understood is that you have the the corrogated sheet floor. Or there is the pie floor. If its either or i would regretfully advice you to get rid of it and buy a new floor. The god news i have for you is that blocks are completely adaquet for supports under a new floor in some ways better and stronger if you like handling the heavy things. |
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East of Dowagiac Michigan | Why should a guy spend money on a new floor if he has a usable old floor that was adaquate before? The new floor will likely double the cost of a used bin project. |
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East of Dowagiac Michigan | the first board is the hardest to remove need to pry with big screwdriver, rest of the boards can be removed by taking the stands out from under one board and folding the board down to release it from the floor. |
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Chebanse, IL..... | Greg We have 2 local suppliers that we deal with. GSI = Agri-Bins @ 815-933-4709 Brock = Hendrix @ 815-426-2111 We used the old winch kind to add rings. The hydraulic model the supplier has lifts from the bottom. We did not want to disassemble the bottom ring. We're fairly accustomed to the winch models. The bestway to add rings would be a crane to lift the bin from above while hooked to the inside. But, we're not organized enough to make efficient use of the crane time that would be charged to us. 
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| If I was working with the old Pie floor, I would definitely get rid of it.
Those things are weak and a PITA to clean with a sweep auger.
I had 2 bins with those floors after the 1st one tore and let corn underneath it and wrinkling some bin sheets in the process I replaced both of them with Sukup Hawk cut planks.
New floors are expensive but much cheaper than repairing bins and also much nicer to clean. |
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Central Iowa | the number one reason to replace it is it will never go back in like it was before especially if the bin has been moved. 2 they are incredibly prone to leaking and any grain under a floor is a huge rat attraction and rats and mice are a quick way to concrete problems that can rapidly cause expensive problems. |
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Leesburg, Ohio | We are going to remove the corrugated floor from a 24' 6 ring butler bin tomorrow. It will be replaced with a new smooth plank aeration floor, but we will re-use the blocks now under the old floor. We are replacing the corrugated floor as we are moving the unload auger around the bin to line up with the dryer for additional wet holding. Since we will be cleaning this bin more than once a season now, we wanted a floor that's easy to sweep.
Metal stands are a pain, but are sometimes easier on a tall bin because of the large number of blocks needed to support the weight on a tall bin. If the concrete floor is not perfectly flat, some of the metal stands can fall out of place when the bin is empty/being unlodaed, and the floor will sag the next time it's filled. That said, most of our bins have metal stands.
For a correct answer to your specific question, you need to contact your local bin supplier's design engineer or salesman. It depends on grain depth, among other things.
FWIW, our local guy has advised us to use existing 12" blocks on edge (holes horizontal so air will flow thru) and put them end-to-end in rows on 2' centers, with the flooring planks laying across them (no wood involved).
Edited by KDD 8/17/2008 22:06
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Central Iowa | KDD exactly what i would recomend other than being heavy and pain to handle you can't get a much better support than the cement blocks. |
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curtice,ohio | the center to center measurement for the blocks is 28 ".not 22", went home and looked up the paper work. yes these block are heavy work ,but its once and done. trying to save a few $ no problem with the newer floors |
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Concrete Blocks Under 27' Grain Bin ?
