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Kingdom of Callaway - Fulton, Mo 65251 | We are getting ready to build several flatbeds to haul small square bales of hay with.
Does anyone have a good set of plans they could post on here?
I have a couple of different Amish guys that are going to give me a bid price for building them and I wanted something on paper so it is fair for both of them.
We will load them with an accumulator grapple so they need tobe 9 feet wide and 16 or 24 long.
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s.e. Pa | I have built a bunch of 8x16 flat wagons before. I think you could extend to 9' wide, but not 24' long. I have always used 2 pieces of 3x8 oak 16' long for stringers. On top of this 3x4 cross pieces every 2'. You can drill 12" through and use a carriage bolt, but they may eventually break due to flexing. I prefer using maybe 10" of 2x2 angle bolted to the cross pieces and stringers to hold them together. Then I use 1x8 rough sawn oak 16' long for the bed. I started using this design when 100 bales was an average load.
To extend to 9' wide, maybe you should put the cross pieces on 16" centers. To extend to 24' long I think you need steel channel, and a pretty stout running gear. The other option I have seen is to use either beam or channel stringers, and treated 2x lumber perpendicular to the stringers as the floor. And then another 2x running lengthwise at either side of the wagon. These doesn't seem as strong to me, but this is how the heavier wagons seem to be built. Also look at lifetime wagons by G.L. Nause. I have been baling more hay and looking at these wagons. They are not cheap though, I think they are comparable in cost to a gooseneck trailer.
Josh |
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Chaffee, Western New York | Stringers but with big planks and a stout piece along the outside edge to hold it all together. Only bolt a few planks to the center so everything can flex. Each plank is bolted on each outside.
We used to....long ago....put pallet boxes on them for Potatoes. The loading and unloading with a forklift is hard on the outside. Putting to much down pressure with the Grapple could be find your failure point.
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SESD | Use steel I beams of choice. Make a "bumper" on front and back out of channel iron, like 6or8", and bevel the bottom of the beams the last couple feet to match the width of the channel. Run a few angle iron between the bottom of the beams and space them out the length of the beams to keep the beams at the right width. For a "rack" on the back, we've done it 2 ways. 1-weld a channel(6-8") on each beam vertically(have some angle to help with loading so the front is stepped and tall enough for 5 or 6 layers) and attach pipe or tube for the cross bars to support the bales as well as an angle iron vertically on the outside of those cross bars to tie them together. 2-weld 1 size bigger channel(short enough to be below top of bed) to beams and slide the "rack" into them and bolt together. This allows you to remove the back rack if you ever need to hang something out the back.
For the bed, use bridgeplank. space about 2". On the outside of the bridge plank, bolt a "c" iron or angle or something to tie them all together. Depending on the length of the plank, you should be able to get 2 planks out of each. If they aren't long enough to make a 9' bed, make more of a rail like on trailers to get the extra few inches of width on each side. |
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| Heres mine |
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Westport, IN | Mobile home frames
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| I built a couple. I used 2x6 16 feet long screwed together in the shapes of C channel or I beams for the main rails. I'd suggest 2x8 on edge with 2x6 on top and bottom, screwed every 6" with 3" x 10 or 12 screws.
I tied those together with bumper plates at the ends. I used 2x6 or 2x8 planks cross wise, in my case 8' long, you'd want 9' long. I tied the outer edges of the planks together with 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 x 1/8" or 3/16" angle with two 1/4-20 flat head bolts through the planks. I turned the angles so the corner was at the outer bottom corner of the planks and then stuck down. Makes a very handy place to hook a ratchet strap to secure the load for long hauls while it stiffens the ends of the cross planks..
I forgot the 2x4 around all four edges on top. That's what keeps the bottom layer of bales from kicking out and off the sides.
With the 2x6 channel or I beams my rack with 160 bales definitely had some sag in the middle but didn't break.
Using 3x8 timbers and bridge planks would be sturdy but very heavy construction.
Gerald J.
Edited by Gerald J. 2/9/2016 16:01
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Southern NJ | I don't have any plans, but here is a picture. We use channel for the main beams and cross members and treated 2x8x20 and use truck bed bolts screwed into the channel. We also make the backboards to slide into pockets so we can remove them to put in a low building when not in use. We started stacking 3 bales wide and not as high which is much easier to load and unload, so I would plan to build them wide enough to do that. I think we end up with about $2,000 in materials when completed. I would use metal rather than wood where possible.
Edited by bonhammj 2/9/2016 13:26
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SW Ohio | Kinda same idea, use metal where you can. First set we did lately was refurbished 8 ton gear with 16" truck tires, 8" channel stringers with 2x4 bolted on the side, 2x6 or 2x8 cross boards for the floor, leave a one inch gap for trash clearance, turn the grain down like a frown for no warping, screw to 2x4 with SS deck screws, put another 2x4 top and bottom of the outside edge, bolt every third one. We add some other unique features, channel back stops with place to tie and store ropes, front rope hooks, front step/tongue protector, lots and lots of large bright reflectors on all four sides high and low, plate to attach magnetic lights, rear hitch, telescopic tongue, etc. These are 8x20 for three blocks of ten Steffen 950 accumulator bundles, seven high makes 210 bale load and two ropes front to back is all you need to secure, not counting gear we had about $1000 in treated wood and steel and parts. We can buy rough sawn Amish beds here for $700-800 8x20. Have plans to make some 8x27 if we can find some nice tandem gears.
A.few things we might do different is lean the backstop back about six inches at the top rather than true 90 degrees, make the length at least a foot more than needed for your blocks, add a flip up front floor board for hauling round bale, at 9 feet might be better to use 4x4 cross beams and run boards lengthwise. A couple of bought wagons have school bus frames for stringers and rough sawn oak floor and front and rear backstops.
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| Last 9x16' bed we built used three treated 2x12s screwed and glued together for the runners and some rough cut 2x6s crossways on them for the bed. On the next one I will use 8' treated 2x12s for the bed and bolt a 3" angle iron down each side sith stake pockets and a rub rail welded to it like a trailer, that will get it to a 102" width, add some extra height on the sides to lean the bales in and it will make it easier to strap stuff down when hauling seed or other stuff on it. |
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Northern Indiana | O |
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SW MO | The best thing we ever did was to take the top and sides off of old silage wagons. Hope it helps! |
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Anyone have any plans for hay wagon flat beds?
