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Scott87 |
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SW Iowa | Any one have ideas to update the markers on a JD 7000 6-30"? I'm wanting to be able to put both markers out to "mark" contours and I'm not happy with the line they cut no-tilling beans into heavy corn stubble. Hard to see and almost nonexistent after dark even using LED lighting. I've seen Kinze markers added and someone made a comment on a post about using IH 800-900 parts. I'm above average at fabricating and have access to some IH stuff. Thanks | ||
4WD |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Are you using these "notched" marker blades? Have you tried adding some weight to marker arms? (Dad used old "window weights" from old houses' window jams; used big hose clamps and wire to hold them on) (Notchedmarkerblade.jpg) (window weights.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Notchedmarkerblade.jpg (36KB - 363 downloads) window weights.jpg (12KB - 416 downloads) | ||
L_Klip |
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SW SD | just find a sequencing valve and larger disks. I've got some nasty gumbo that its hard to see the marks on. I usually tilt my blades further in the kind of ground | ||
WTF2014 |
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CIL | Scott, do you mean you want both markers down at the same time? Our 12 row flex fold 7000 allows us to put both markers down at the same time. Just have to flip the marker switch while the planter is down and hit "down" on the hydraulics and the other marker will come down too. We do it for a neighbor who almost always plants a field after us, but already has his ground worked. It helps him get started. Edited by WTF2014 1/26/2016 20:47 | ||
jayhoffman |
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Who uses markers nowadays. Get auto steer. | |||
Scott87 |
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SW Iowa | I've got the heavier notched blades tipped as far as they can go, plus added 3'-4' of scrap 1 5/8" shaft as far out as I can. I weld on the main marker frame cracks every spring and replaced both hinge pins. Only plant around 300 acres/year. Didn't know if I drilled out the rivets to turn blades inward like the newer planter? Really want to be able to lower both markers. Only need to do that a few times each season but want the option. | ||
Walton Farms |
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SW Indiana | This really helps him, why do people even reply something like this. As far as getting both markers down at the same time I can't help on that. The notched blades do help, I also took out the hollow tube out of the marker arm and replaced it with a solid steel square. The square part from the marker arm to the blade on the end, seemed to help quite a bit. Dad used to have a couple long C channel steel pieces that he would wire onto his markers when he was no-tilling, then take them off in worked ground. | ||
Scott87 |
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SW Iowa | This planter only has one cylinder with a cable. I have tried what you suggested but won't work with this ole unit. Thanks Walton Farms. Not all of us cover the acres to justify technology updates. I get er done with what I got. If I can't build it, I'll screw it up trying! Edited by Scott87 1/26/2016 20:56 | ||
chevydiesel07 |
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East Central Indiana | Could always use a light bar for help if needed. I know sometimes at night its hard to see the line and then you start searching ahead. Not saying he would have to use it 90% of time maybe but it could help get through some spots or double check. just a thought | ||
WTF2014 |
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CIL | sorry I couldn't help. I know what you mean getting by. That can make or break us, especially over the next three years! | ||
STILL FARMING |
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Central NE | When we had a 7100 planter we could put one marker down, then raise it just a little and it would trip the sequencing valve, then move your're hyd lever to lower and it would put the other marker down. We would then put the lever in float position and both markers would go down to operating position. Hope this helps. | ||
jd7810 |
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210 Industrial Dr., Arlington Wisconsin 53911 | With your cable marker system you cannot put both markers down at the same time. Pequea planter, Gap Pa. makes a kit for your 7000 that is similar to the 7200 and newer conservation 6 row planters. They use hydraulic rams on the heavier markers and I'm pretty sure you put both markers down at the same time like the 7200. Only drawback is the $16-1700 price for the kit. Last season we put the kit on a 7000 6rn and it worked great. Phone # is 717 442 4406 - no web site as they're Amish. | ||
4WD |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Do you use row cleaners? Can you see, the last outside row, of the previous planter pass, even in no-till old corn stalks? (If so, have you thought of a simple pipe/rod with hanging chain, do-hicky, up front attacked to your tractor's front weight bracket = you just flip it down, after your "First pass" on the contour, then let chain drag over the previously planted row = you may need to compensate for side hills, like you would normally = this will get you to the correct distance, for your guess rows{give or take})
{Note: With my row cleaners, I can see my previous pass, day or night, in old corn stalks; but I have them set a little aggressive, too.} (planter guide 2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- planter guide 2.jpg (103KB - 394 downloads) | ||
ih1566 |
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Hamilton, OH/ Browning, MO | Nobody has mentioned this yet but try to unbolt the marker blade from the bearing and flip it. This will allow the disc blade to pull soil in rather than throw out. This how IH has theirs. I've tried planting at night or just in hard ground and have pulled my hair out with not seeing the marker. No matter what you hang on there will be enough. Once you flip the disc blade around you will have to be careful because you will rip marker arm off due to it penetrating so much and stressing the arm, so be sure to decrease the amount of angle. | ||
2poor2bpicky |
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SC Illinois | Also an LED light can be harder to see the row with as it tends to cast less of a shadow per say, not really much help but i have noticed their intensity tends to make it harder to see marker arm rows | ||
paul the original |
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southern MN | You planting a corn maize there? Paul | ||
dieselartie |
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northern chester county PA | When I had my 7000 planter I modified my markers to have a cylinder on each arm . Only needed to buy the cylinders and added a homemade fasse valve to the planter tractor to get a third valve . That way I had left and right individual marker control . Edited by dieselartie 1/27/2016 05:20 (planter modifcations 2011 015.jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 006.jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 009.jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 010.jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 011.jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 011 (Medium).jpg) (planter modifcations 2011 012.jpg) Attachments ---------------- planter modifcations 2011 015.jpg (286KB - 413 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 006.jpg (430KB - 361 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 009.jpg (149KB - 394 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 010.jpg (229KB - 377 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 011.jpg (276KB - 396 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 011 (Medium).jpg (72KB - 314 downloads) planter modifcations 2011 012.jpg (303KB - 363 downloads) | ||
Scott87 |
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SW Iowa | This is what I was thinking. How did you get the geometry correct when tacking down the cylinder pivot point and what length/stroke of cylinder did you use? | ||
dieselartie |
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northern chester county PA | Well I think the cylinders were 14 inch stroke . A 14 inch cylinder gave it more down float for uneven ground . But when raised they needed a cylinder stop put on . Edited by dieselartie 1/27/2016 06:10 | ||
mac4440 |
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You need the weight out on the end like this guy....makes a big difference. | |||
Showtime |
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N.W. Ohio | +2 on weight. for that tough ground you have to have weight to get that disc blade to sink in and cut something. We have a 7000 as well and agree the markers not its strongest. We have a Gps tho (not auto-steer) so we use them but not a must. | ||
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