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JD 4010 PTO maintenance and repairs Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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dpilot83 |
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We're starting to use a Loftness grain bag unloader quite a bit with our 4010. I'm guessing the job requires somewhere between 40 and 60 engine HP through the PTO. What reliability concerns do I need to be aware of with it as we move forward with it? The engagement lever doesn't seem to have a really definant over center moment (it seems somewhat loose). How will I know that we have already been slipping it and that clutch reliability is compromised because of it? I know I need to adjust it and grease it but what else should I be looking into? Thanks. | |||
Rayl |
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Saline County, Mo | Keep pto stub bolts tight | ||
dpilot83 |
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Thanks, I remember reading something about that now but had forgotten. | |||
dpilot83 |
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Well, just loaded another semi and it was indeed slipping. Also, we just discovered rear main seal leaking on engine. Think that is causing the slipping now. | |||
Gerald J. |
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Keep them tight. If they get loose on the 540 stub you have to take it off and turn the flange by hand while pushing on the center shifter rod to get the gears to mesh before you bolt the stub tight again. If you force the shifter rod with the flange bolts you can wreck the drive inside the transmission. SM-2039 from Deere is the right manual for your 4010 and the early 4020. I don't see any mechanism for the clutch to over center, but the manual says it latches. Its like the engine to transmission clutch, except that the lever pushes the plates together on the PTO clutch, there's no springs and the individual clutch levers are opposite acting. Gerald J. | |||
Jon Hagen |
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Hagen Brothers farms,Goodrich ND | dpilot83 - 1/12/2016 16:59 We're starting to use a Loftness grain bag unloader quite a bit with our 4010. I'm guessing the job requires somewhere between 40 and 60 engine HP through the PTO. What reliability concerns do I need to be aware of with it as we move forward with it? The engagement lever doesn't seem to have a really definant over center moment (it seems somewhat loose). How will I know that we have already been slipping it and that clutch reliability is compromised because of it? I know I need to adjust it and grease it but what else should I be looking into? Thanks. If the 4010 PTO clutch is like an early 4020 with syncro trans, then it's linkage does indeed go over center to lock the PTO in gear. Little to no resistance to pushing the lever over center is a warning that the clutch is much too loose and needs to be adjusted. "normal" is 20-30 pounds of effort to lock the PTO lever over center, less means it's too loose. The adjustment procedure is in the op manual and the adjusting turnbuckle is in the console and adjusted through the door in the rear of the console by your feet. It's high on the left rear in a 64 model 4020.. Edited by Jon Hagen 1/12/2016 18:24 | ||
KTA |
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Inside the control support on the left hand side there is linkage that connects the lever to the pto yoke and bearing assembly, inside the clutch housing, that provides the engagement of the clutch. There is a long nut connecting two threaded rods. On 4010 you remove the rod from the lever linkage and thread into the long nut to shorten the assembly to increase the pressure on the pto disk. Lever goes over-center to provide pressure. The 4010 pto bearing is greased from below after removing the cover plate. Foot clutch and pto bearings both have fittings. There is a detent plunger in the control support casting on the lever linkage that is usually frozen up that a shot of oil will help with. Keep stub shaft bolts tight. Normally rear main seal will not cause slippage unless clutch housing fills with oil. Hope this helps. Edit: On a 4020 tractor turning the long nut DOES tighten the clutch as the rod ends have left and right hand threads. Your 4010 adjusts as described. Edited by KTA 1/12/2016 18:29 | |||
Indianajones |
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May want to check and be sure the engagement finger adjustment bolts ahve not slipped in the clutch housing. I have reset them on a 4020 before without splitting the tractor but it is no fun. INDY | |||
deereonly1 |
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EC IL | If your rear main is leaking, you just as well grab some stands and split it. Not a bad job, just buy or rent the proper tools when installing the rear main | ||
larryshoat |
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Southwestern Ohio |
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dpilot83 |
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Thanks everyone. I was loading more grain out but Dad took the cover off and there was quite a bit of oil in there (probably a cup?). The fingers were worn thin and one was bent back. Smelled like it had gotten warm. With all of those things added together I think we're going to send it in and have them split it. I'd like to do it myself but I'm just running short on time and long on things to do. Anything else you should just automatically do when you have the tractor split? If I changed my mind and did it myself, how many hours would it take me? I would have to build stands to split it before starting. I'm fairly slow and methodical when I work on stuff so I expect it would take me three times as long as it would take someone experienced. | |||
KTA |
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Oil gets into the clutch compartment of those tractors from the engine and from the transmission case. Can also externally find its way down through that hole in top of the housing where the pto linkage goes down, but a leaking steering valve or remote control valve will be the problem there. Rear crankshaft seal, seal housing gasket and oil pan gasket for engine oil leak source. Transmission input shaft seals are used to keep oil in the rear. Tractor requires a second split at rear of clutch housing to replace shaft seals. Oil on clutch disks is usually from rear end. 50 year old tractors usually have bad seals. Also always replace pto shift pins when tractor is split for seal replacement. Hope this helps. | |||
dpilot83 |
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KTA, I forgot to respond. Thanks for your input there. I guess they're splitting the tractor today. They seem pretty convinced it's the engine and not the transmission leaking for us. Hope they're right and we don't end up splitting it again but it sure looks like it's coming from the engine. I really appreciate all your input on that. Helped me talk with them a little more intelligently since I've never been into one. | |||
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