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Kingston, Ohio | I tried chisel plowing some sod tonight. Boy did that not end well. I don't have a disk chisel. What should I do. My plan is to take my 496 disc out and disc it feel once or twice then chisel it. Sod is green. Has been bush hogged but doesn't feed through like I hoped. Any suggestions would be great. I don't want to moldboard this field and I'd rather not disc it to death in the spring. |
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Lewisburg, PA | Spray it then chisel in spring! on maybe notill it ! |
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north-central Indiana west of Fulton | +1 |
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Central Iowa | Roundup + 2,4-D = a perfect seedbed, don't screw it up with a chisel plow. |
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McLeod County, MN | I would agree. Have never seen a piece of sod effectively tilled. Spray and plant. |
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Nw ohio | Time to get out good old fashioned plow |
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Nw ohio | I don't know why you would want to plant in that mess I plowed under ground this year that was in crp for 20 years and had tree stumps and twenty years worth of ground hog holes |
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| I always liked discing sod before you moleboard plow. You end up with very few, if any, chunks of sod on top to contend with. |
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Elizabethtown,KY | Kornkurt - 12/6/2015 18:47
Roundup + 2,4-D = a perfect seedbed, don't screw it up with a chisel plow.
+1000 Some of the best corn I've ever grown was no-tilled into sod. If you kill it in the fall the bugs and rodents won't bother the seed when you plant next year. |
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NE Iowa | No-tilling corn into fall killed sod is my favorite thing to plant into. If you've never tried no-till it would be a great place to start. Before we went no-till we've tried several things on sod. If you want to minimize passes the best is still moldboard plowing. If you really want to chisel plow can you spray it with Roundup to kill it now and then wait to chisel plow until spring? Most people that try chisel plowing living sod end up going over it twice with chisel and then several passes with a disc or soil finisher. Chiseling and then rotovating or power harrowing also works. |
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SW OH | Find and borrow and old JD plow with the curved blades. Over the past several years we have been able to bring a few fields out of crp. I wanted to notill, but the animal holes and washouts were just too much. |
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Liberty, MO | Years ago we had an IHC yellow offset disc with 26 in blades and 11 in spacing, worked 40 acres of orchard grass, fescue , and brome grass about waist high, worked it twice, then a light disc and planted corn with a 494A JD planter., worked great. 14 ft if I remember correctly. Was a load for 2150 OLIVER I remember that. |
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| Here, on our operation, we raise A LOT of grass hay. We are constantly dealing with the sod when rotating. There are 2 good methods that have worked for us. We only raise hay for now, so the way we do things might be different than you would. The first, we make a pass with a disk, and then run a large rotary tiller through the field (http://www.nwtiller.com). It is a slow process, but leaves a perfect seedbed when done. Unfortunately these are very expensive machines. The second method we use is to simply disk the field 2-3 times and then moldboard plow it. This does a good job of getting the sod buried, but you have a lot more work involved. You have at least 3 passes over the field and then you still have to make it seedbed ready which will require a few more passes. We prefer when possible to run the tiller, but if it gets a little moist it doesn't work very good and we switch to plowing. It really isn't feasible for you if you have just one field, whereas we are doing this every year. If it were me, and the field was HERE, I would disk and then moldboard. But your circumstances are different than mine and you may have erosion concerns. Whereas it's not a problem HERE. No-till might be a good option for you going into row crops |
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De Forest, WI | Always best to plow sod in the fall and let winter and early spring wear down some of the clods and clumps. Disc two our three times then either use a an old spike tooth drag, a soil finisher or possibly a cultimulcher to make a nice seedbed. |
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Plowing sod
