|
|
Northeastern Pa. | What is the proper way to install drain tile. We are going to use a mini excavator. Should gravel be put down under and on top of tile ? Previously we just put flakes of small hay bales on top. I see there is some with a screen around the pipe. We had a 24" pipeline go through the whole farm and now we have wet spots where they ripped the tile out. This was a main line so we had no choice and policing the job was impossible. Words to the wise don't ever let a pipeline go through your farm land unless you have no choice !!!!!!!!! Thanks for your input. |
|
| |
|
Southeast Iowa | Most tile is installed with just the tile and nothing else.
Are you covering the tile trying to keep something out or to increase the water intake?
If to keep sand or something out they do make small slit tile that has smaller slits than the normal tile.
Gary |
|
| |
|
NW IN | When installing HDPE drain tile with an excavator, you should over-excavate and put 4" of stone below. Rake it to grade and then just cover the pipe with stone. You're using perforated pipe so the stone above is not as critical. If you use solid pipe, use 6" of stone above as that is what will carry the soil load, not the pipe. This assumes a clay soil? Sandy/gravel sols are more forgiving, but your location in Northeast tells me probably clay.
HDPE pipe is a flexible conduit and very sensitive to installation. A little bit of thought will go a long ways for you in not having to do it again.
Preferred stone is a washed limestone. Clean #8 (1/2" to 3/4" chips) with no fines. Pea gravel is ok in this situation. Can use sand and compact, but only on solid pipe or you'd need sock filter on the pipe to keep sand out of the pipe.
Backfill sensibly and let the trench settle with rain. Don't bulldoze it shut with a D8 and pack it down for good measure.
Good luck and hopefully you get your field dried up!
Edit: if you want to look up ASTM D2321, it is the standard for excavator installation of corrugated HDPE pipe. Might be worth buying a copy. You'd be amazed at what I've witnessed in the field for installation.
Edited by Tileman2 11/6/2015 15:28
|
|
| |
|
| Why are you doing it. The pipeline company should be resposible for fixing it. |
|
| |
|
Gettysburg, PA | Here we don't put stone under the pipe unless it gets off grade a little bit. We use ASHTO 57 and enough to just cover the pipe and to keep stone costs down we try to use a 1 foot bucket. I remember hearing that years ago they would put staw on top of the pipe, but, apparently there were a number of times where they found mice nesting up in the straw and they would chew through the pipe. Whether true or not, I've seen only one job in 25 years where the farmer put straw on the tile ETA: I am referring to 4 or 6 inch tile..
Edited by conservation cop 11/6/2015 06:39
|
|
| |
|
NC Indiana | Part of it depends on soils. Most here is trenched/plowed in and installed. I have areas where to get any cover at all, we're in the glacial till and to keep it draining, we put stone around it or if you have to do a deep cut through a hill then we stone it. Tile sock is used in the sand and gravel areas around here as well. We also fight Iron Ocre which will seal off the tile once it hits oxygen in some of our mucks so that creates other challenges.
If you're working in a trench near previously disturbed soils (old tile/pipelines/etc), remember to over excavate as they can and will slough off on you. |
|
| |
|
| I agree on the pipe lines--it will never be the same. I have 2 of them damn things through my farm. Last one was in 1999-they were supposed to fix tile-HA. You can still see path through farm. Crappy crops over and beside line! Retiled a lot of it.
 (IMG_0571.JPG)
Attachments
----------------
 IMG_0571.JPG (199KB - 288 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Morris, IL | Probably the same one Tee.
 (image.jpeg)
Attachments
----------------
image.jpeg (153KB - 281 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
southern MN | 1. Need to be experienced with an excavator, you need a very level bottom. Any dips in the tile gather sediment and fill up.
2. Depends on your soil, clay to sand, as to what you need for tile sock. Don't think I've ever seen tile sock in my dirt, other areas they need to all the time. There are different type holes in tile from round to slots to slits for different conditions as well.
3. Never heard of rock used to bed tile here; but I see in some places they have special machines to feed rock in the trench, do it all the time. So it must depend....
4. The old timers would lay down hay to bed the tile. I wonder if that was to make it easier to stand in the mud and dig the trench, set the tile by hand?
5. We have a sandy knob hill, dad would dump sand in the trench on top of the tile in low spots to help water funnel to the tile in our clay soils. Not sure of the return on that idea, but seems plausible.
I numbered them, so folks can pick apart my ideas and challenge them easily - it seems different in different soil types?
Paul |
|
| |
|
Leesburg, Ohio | First, never let any utility or outside company dig up your farm without a lawyer-approved clause in the easement to require tile repair/replacement to original specs or better, with positive observed results.
When repairing tile, a level trench bottom with a "V" groove in the middle is important. Tile normally should be laid in a "V" bottom groove in the bottom of the trench for proper support. The V should contact the tile at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions on the tile profile. In the absence of a "V" groove, we lay the tile over next to one wall of the trench, not down the middle. This gives it a bit of sidewall support to help prevent crushing the tile.
We usually keep a pile of 57's gravel around the job site when doing tile work. The only time we use it, though, is if we have a soft bottom to stabilize the tile bed, or when making a repair in marginal conditions, or where several tile come together.
Just remember, water runs down hill. It is truly amazing to me how many people think otherwise. |
|
| |
Proper way to install field tile
