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Hydraulic oil blowing out of plug on single acting cylinder Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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plowboy-n-ky |
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North/Central Kentucky | Every time I raise the wings on my batwing, one cylinder blows hydraulic fluid all over the place. It appears to be coming out of the plug bolt in the other end of the cylinder. The other wing cylinder is fine. My lift cylinder is blowing fluid as well and from the same bolt. BTW, the head of these plugs are hex and seem to have a small vent hole in one side. Are these plugs designed to let air out and back in when the piston is pushed from the other end by hydraulic pressure. What is causing the leak now? Fix? | ||
Buster 50 |
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North West IA/western AZ | You have oil leaking around the piston. | ||
whistle pig |
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SE MN | You have a seal out inside the cylinder. | ||
tomosakis |
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Osakis, MN | Sometimes single acting cylinders that sit without oil on the vented side of the piston for extended periods of time get condensation and moisture buildup in them. This condensation can start to pit and rust the inside of the tube. When this starts to happen, when you extend the piston into the pitted up tube, it tears at the o-rings in the cylinder. I hope that isn't the case here. I have had it happen to a couple cylinders. | ||
plowboy-n-ky |
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North/Central Kentucky | Thanks for all of the quick replies. I guess I'll try rebuild kits. Both are 2.5", so I believe the same kits fit both cylinders. With the cost of hydraulic fluid these days, I better get on it. Take care folks. | ||
JDEEREMAN |
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Eastern ND | You are better off buying new cylinders. The inside of the bore is probably rusted or pitted. The seal kit may work for a while, but they will be leaking again in a year. BTDT. | ||
ccjersey |
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Faunsdale, AL | If you want to take care of the mess without rebuilding the cylinders, get another set of hydraulic hoses and convert them to double acting cylinders by removing the vent plug. The oil that leaks by the piston seal will return to the tractor. You must run the wing fold circuit in the float position once you convert, so the cutter can flex over uneven ground without putting things in a bind. Eventually the seals will get so bad, things will leak down too fast to keep going that way and you will need to put a kit in. Sometimes folks try to get by using a single valve for both wing fold and cutter lift, and this conversion would prevent doing that. That's not a good setup anyway if you can do anything else. | ||
plowboy-n-ky |
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North/Central Kentucky | That's a good idea. I did asked my dealer for a seal kit. $126 per kit. Think I might run a hose from the cylinder to a gallon jug and then pour if back in the tractor every once in a while. $126. Probably a little markup going on there. A second hose back to the tractor could very well work, but I agree, it's just prolonging the inevitable. | ||
Two Hawk |
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Southern Nevada desert | Check around for a hydraulic repair shop, my local shop got me aftermarket seals for 12.00 that Agco wanted close to 100.00 for, sometimes they can get higher quality seals than OEM for far less. | ||
dabeegmon |
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SE Manitoba | Two Hawk - 9/23/2015 12:36 Check around for a hydraulic repair shop, my local shop got me aftermarket seals for 12.00 that Agco wanted close to 100.00 for, sometimes they can get higher quality seals than OEM for far less. Sometimes he says - - - if you have a good shop (for seals and and and) I would think ALWAYS for less. You might even be able to update your seal types to one of the new elastomers. I would suggest taking a cylinder apart and looking to see its internal condition - - - if its not too bad maybe its time to chuck it into a lathe and sand the inside. If the pitting is real bad buy yourself the DOM tubing and the other parts you need and MAKE your own. With the welding I would suggest a 2 pass weld - - - a nice quite hot 6010 root (looking for excellent penetration here) and a fairly hot 7018 top pass with NO weaving (stringers only!!!). Easy good for a lot of pressure. You can test with air in a pail with soapy water and some plugs. Doing this isn't something real hard just make sure you're confidant in your welding (you are dealing with 2500 to 3000 psi without shock loads) but if your decent you should have few issues!!! | ||
Two Hawk |
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Southern Nevada desert | Sometimes people worry that the parts are not OEM quality, what I was trying to say is sometimes you can get better seals than OEM, and yes, they are always way cheaper. My shop has also re-tubed a few larger cylinders and also built new rods for a fraction of new price. | ||
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