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evil lanky me |
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I just got a new to me grain cart, it is a Kinze 850, I will be pulling it with a 7130 boxcar Magnum. I can't slide the draw bar all the way in and still get the hammer strap on the draw bar, and am worried about this much load on my draw bar. I've heard about people putting a chain from the 3 point under the draw bar, and I could also get an after market "heavy duty drawbar" for around $750. Should I be worried about this? If so, which would be better, the chain or the heavy duty draw bar? I'm not opposed to the $750, I plan on using this cart for a long time. (IMG_20150903_124019_751.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_20150903_124019_751.jpg (107KB - 480 downloads) | |||
TwoGlovesLloyd |
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I'd probably price a clevis style hitch for the Kinze. | |||
4WD |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Can you built anything similar to this? Edit: I just added a rear view of 7130, from Fastline ad, so we could see what bolts or brackets are available to attach to. Edited by 4WD 9/3/2015 16:32 (drawbar support.jpg) (rear view of 7130 tractor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- drawbar support.jpg (78KB - 370 downloads) rear view of 7130 tractor.jpg (124KB - 377 downloads) | ||
Ron (Cen. IL.) |
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Central Illinois | Does your manual give an "acceptable range" measurement for the distance between the PTO shaft and the drawbar hole? Relatives had a bar 2-3 feet long suspended by chains from the 3 point hitch arms to support the drawbar, don't know if it was something homemade or bought from Case-IH. Current tractor (C-IH 275) doesn't have a 3 point. Edit: not sure how my post ended up under 4WD 's post but theirs was somewhat similar to his picture except using the 3 point arms. They don't use anything on the 275. Edited by Ron (Cen. IL.) 9/3/2015 16:38 | ||
sparrell |
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I'd get rid of the clip in the bottom of the draw pin and put a bolt with a lock nut in its place. That clip would last long on a grain cart "here". | |||
Al Swearingen |
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North Central Iowa | Can you have someone drill a new hole for the belly pin? | ||
knks |
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haskell county, ks | i ran chain from 3 point under hitch successfully for several seasons. the small hitch pin size to large hole in grain cart is going to make for a lot of slapping in and out which will cause an uncomfortable ride along with added stress. | ||
evil lanky me |
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I don't like the way the pin looks either. This is the way the dealer set it up for me and now that its home I'm having second thoughts on both the hitch and the pin. | |||
EquipmentUser |
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KY | I personally would either build a set up to support that drawbar like is shown in the pics above or just go for the HD drawbar, which ever you feel more comfortable with. As far as the drawbar setting I am assuming the cart is a 1000 Rpm shaft so you will need to set the drawbar at 16" from end of pto shaft to center of hitch pin hole to keep the driveline from potentially bottoming out and causing damage. Now for the sloppy hole, get the largest hitch pin that the drawbar/ hammer strap will accept and then have a machine shop make you a bushing for the grain cart hitch to take out the slop. The way it is now will be extremely harsh and would probably break something if you were loaded and it got to jerking real bad. | ||
BHTN |
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West Tennessee | TwoGlovesLloyd - 9/3/2015 15:17 I'd probably price a clevis style hitch for the Kinze. +1. Also +1 on the putting a bolt with jam nut in the pin hole instead of the spring clip. | ||
pehinric |
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East central Iowa, Camanche, Iowa | The force is going to be downward and your weak point will be where the drawbar comes out of the bracket. By installing a couple of bars on edge on the bottom like I did you distribute the down force over more area. The side straps may appear to be thin but they do not have to support the entire weight of the drawbar they only distribute some of the load. It is all about distributing the weight over more surface area. Edited by pehinric 9/3/2015 17:40 (0905121216c.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 0905121216c.jpg (107KB - 377 downloads) | ||
Schuerman Farms |
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WC MN & Valley of the Sun, AZ | The tractor hitch pin size compared to the hole on the grain cart is a sign... | ||
Illinois John |
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Crawford County, Robinson, Illinois | I had an 800 cart with 12" sideboards, would hold around 960 bushels, have had a 1000 on it with heavy corn. I had a magnum 30, no problems. I had it on my IH 2+2 and the drawbar really bowed down when loaded, but never broke. I liked it better on my John Deere 71?? with the cummins engine, forgot the number. Loved that Kinze cart, a real beast. Edited by Illinois John 9/3/2015 18:14 | ||
IAGary |
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Southeast Iowa | You do know you have to have some play for crossing low or high spots. If you have every thing tight you will break something for sure. That pin is your pivot point. If he can keep the clip in that pin he will be just fine. I would put a small bolt in place of the clip and go. Gary Edited by IAGary 9/3/2015 20:29 | ||
GLW |
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Northeast Illinois | Look at the size of the pin hole to give you some reference on what you should do. | ||
greenfarmer |
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Central Minnesota | We pulled a Killbros 1200 with a boxcar for years. Also pulled a 34.5 foot 4700 with a 500 gallon tank on the front. Over time the combination of the two weakened the drawbar. and it snapped off. We found a used drawbar, and then cut the old one, so it fit with about 1/8 inch of clearance. Under the new/used drawbar. That way when the drawbar would flex, it had the support of the piece we put underneath, which would touch the drawbar support. Left 1/8 inch of clearance in it so there would be flex. We just used longer bolts thru the clevis to mount it on there. Worked good. Never had any problems after that. Maybe go to a local metal shop and find a 2"x3" piece of solid steel and put a brace under it. | ||
Hay Hud Ohio |
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SW Ohio | I would be doing something, anything about that now, better than later this is what happens http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=312838&posts=1... | ||
gbenkfarm |
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SeMN | We pulled a 1040 with a 7150 Magnum for 2 years with no issues with the drawbar, I wouldn't worry about it. | ||
centralillinois |
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The owners manuals for both the tractor and grain cart have recommended hitch capacities. If you can't find the limitations a dealer should be able to help you. I pulled a j & M 875 behind a 7230 for a few years but the drawbar was short on capacity so I wrapped a log chain around the three point hitch and raised it until it was snug and off we went. Your three point hitch has more than enough weight capacity for the cart so that might be an option. | |||
Caleb1456 |
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Magnolia, KY | I broke the drawbar in my 7240 last year pulling a brent 1082. We replaced with a drawbar from a 305 magnum and put a chain to the three point. I would be scared to death of your current setup. Spend the money and buy the HD drawbar for a new model magnum. The dealer says the holes are the same. Good luck! | ||
Since1889 |
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S Mn | The 750 for the heavier drawbar will be cheap compared to breaking that one going 12 mph across the field and having the pto shaft get wreaked if it comes unhooked. On a cart I really like the Clevis that has one of those balls in it like a three point hitch to hold tight around the pin but let's the hitch move around for angles and whatnot. The cart guy won't like how that one is going to shift around and slam back and forth when stopping and going forward when loading trucks. | ||
4WD |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Since1889 - 9/3/2015 21:42 The 750 for the heavier drawbar will be cheap compared to breaking that one going 12 mph across the field and having the pto shaft get wreaked if it comes unhooked. On a cart I really like the Clevis that has one of those balls in it like a three point hitch to hold tight around the pin but let's the hitch move around for angles and whatnot. The cart guy won't like how that one is going to shift around and slam back and forth when stopping and going forward when loading trucks.
Bull Pull hitches, like this: http://blackaceparts.com/products/articulating-implement-hitches/
(bull-pull-large.png) Attachments ---------------- bull-pull-large.png (19KB - 440 downloads) | ||
farmerbroun |
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Not what you're asking about, but I would put those bolts in the hammer strap the other way around. With the threads up, u will be more likely to see if they ever get loose. Also the threads stay clean, chains wont catch them, and they come out easier. | |||
Since1889 |
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S Mn | Yep like that. | ||
Big Ben |
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Columbia Basin, Ephrata, WA | farmerbroun - 9/3/2015 19:45 Not what you're asking about, but I would put those bolts in the hammer strap the other way around. With the threads up, u will be more likely to see if they ever get loose. Also the threads stay clean, chains wont catch them, and they come out easier. Ah yes, the age old "nuts up or nuts down" debate. | ||
countryman |
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Germany | that would be an excellent application for a 80mm ball hitch... | ||
KMech |
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Missouri | The drawbar probably needs to be all the way out, not all the way in. Commonly, the spec for 1000 rpm powered implements is for the drawbar hole center to be 16" from the end of the PTO stub shaft for proper driveline alignment. I'd check your tractor and cart documentation; you may be compromising driveline integrity in attempt to make your drawbar survive an overload. It's trading one dangerous situation for another; I'm not sure I'd consider it a net benefit. | ||
GM Guy |
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NW KS/ SC ID | I spy an Allis. :) Got any more pics? What model? | ||
plowboy |
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Brazilton KS | Case has a bar about 40" long with links to go to the 3 point lift links. It is sold with planters. | ||
Illinois John |
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Crawford County, Robinson, Illinois | evil lanky me - 9/3/2015 16:07 I don't like the way the pin looks either. This is the way the dealer set it up for me and now that its home I'm having second thoughts on both the hitch and the pin. I drilled out the bottom hole to fit a snap-over pin like we use on a three point hitch. I had a cover for the pin that kept trash from opening it, worked great on my cart. | ||
mike11861 |
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Newark IL | nt | ||
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