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Bardstown,KY | I have a peec engine that I think the ECM is bad on. Thinking about converting it to mechanical as most of the Google searches have suggested. Anybody on here done it or have any advice before I start. |
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Dearfield Co. | I have done a few a long time back------looking back on a couple of them the trouble never stopped. If you have access to a core motor to rob parts off of makes it a doable project. If you have to buy it by the piece or thru cat it isn't affordable. |
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SE Washington | Did one two years ago. Had a 400 hp peec that only made power at 1600 for 50 rpm. The swap made a new truck out of a gutless wonder. I used the pump and advance unit from a 3zj engine. My reading found that a b-series pump would work also if you change nozzles to match the pump. B and C nozzles pop at different pressure. Mechanically it was a simple swap. Study your jake-brake wiring ahead of time.
Edit: You might want to check all of your wiring harnesses. When I got the wiring all removed from the engine I found a questionable spot or two that were behind the injection pump and where it passed into the electronic advance.
Edited by Paul in WA 7/6/2015 21:01
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Dearfield Co. | The worst part of it is putting the foot feed in for mechanical throttle if you asks me----------------- |
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Bardstown,KY | Was planning on gathering some used parts. Went and looked at a manual truck like mine and the pedal doesn't look like it will be to bad. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | I haven't done one, but just thinking about it, these issues come to mine. Need complete fuel injection pump, governor, and its timing advance unit w/its gear and cover. (but you should take the time to research "timing" as your engine may use different pistons and nozzles and you would want a "used" fuel injection pump to have similar timing, that used those same pistons and nozzles) Note: I believe most PEEC engine were 14 degrees base timing with electric advance unit that did "twice" the amount of timing verses the mechanical timing advance units. My guess is you might be able to use a mechanical fuel injection pump with 16 degree base timing or maybe even 18 degree base timing, IF the pistons and nozzles were the same, as your original PEEC engine. (looking up part numbers, is how you research this) Also, most fuel injection pump have their timing (in degrees) etched with an electric pencil, in the front end of the fuel injection pump camshaft (timing advance must be removed, to view) = this is good to know, if you go to a recycle yard to find a complete fuel system. You would lose cruise control. You would need to rewire jake brakes. You need to install a mechanical throttle linkage, return spring and its bracket and accelerator foot pedal (in cab). Get correct wires for the shutoff solenoid, wired. Even if you got a complete unit, from a recycle yard, you still may want someone to go thru it, before installation = more $$$ |
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Sparta, WI | I have one that was converted before I bought it, high mileage engine but runs great. Smokes like a banshee though. I put new fuel nozzles in, had timing advance rebuilt, had pump set and checked boost diaphragm, any ideas why so much smoke? |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | I'm assuming you mean white smoke. (Or do you mean black smoke or gray smoke)? Does it smoke constantly, only on start-up or until the engine gets warm? Does it smoke black, just after you shift gears and accelerate? Was it a 460 HP PEEC engine, to start out (before the swap)? |
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Sparta, WI | Black smoke, right after shifting until it gets boost again. Assuming it's overfueling at low boost. Alittle smoke wouldn't bother me but it looks like a pulling tractor. Young drivers think it's cool, but it bothers me to see my truck fogging out the cars behind it. 4CK motor. Is the pump not adjusted correctly?
Edited by Trucker1 7/7/2015 21:41
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | It sounds like either, the air/fuel ratio control valve is incorrectly adjusted (way too rich) or if you have the earlier style of air/fuel ratio control valve it may have a blown rubber diaphragm, inside of it. To test for a blown diaphragm, just remove that little steel line that drops down from the intake manifold, and goes to the air/fuel ratio control valve (above shutoff solenoid). Then rig something up to add about 15 psi of air pressure to that air/fuel ratio control valve and it should hold that pressure inside of it. If it won't hold any pressure, at all, then the rubber diaphragm is blown, most likely. (#23)
Edited by 4WD 7/7/2015 22:26
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 3406B_left side_in paint program.jpg (71KB - 926 downloads)
3406B_AFRC.jpg (198KB - 913 downloads)
3406 _AFRC parts photo.jpg (108KB - 924 downloads)
3406 _AFRC parts photo_in paint program.jpg (71KB - 1249 downloads)
3406B_scratch marks.jpg (99KB - 900 downloads)
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Central ND | I'm impressed with your knowledge of the peek engine. seems unless I haul it to cat no one knows much about them.I also have one and had issues but changed circuit board in the cab and computer to the engine ......... lets just say that if it stops it would not surprise me, but so far it seem to be good to go. It had intermittent stopping problem that no one could remedy. I threw out the board in the dash and put in a new one(expensive little booger)Seems to have fixed it. The ecm replacement proved to make the jakes work properly again as well as the cruise. |
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Sparta, WI | I had it apart to check the diaphragm before, and it passed a visual inspection, but I haven't put air to it. It's adjustable? Which way is less fuel? Thanks for the help |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | For the Air/Fuel ratio control valve; Less fuel (less black smoke, until boost increases) = loosen jam nut, then "loosen" or go counter-clockwise (looking from rear of engine) with the inner screw (use small screwdriver, but hold that aluminum cone with pliers or small vise-grips) Note: you should see more threads, behind jam nut, when done. Now, if diaphragm is blown, BUT you still readjust(lean out) the air/fuel ratio control valve = you will have "Low power", constantly = you need to make sure the diaphragm is OK (holds pressure), first. (you can adjust those, soooo lean, that they will even kill the engine, on deaccelaration) Now, there is always the possibility that "whoever" installed the air/fuel ratio control didn't get the internal plunger "latched" onto the internal fork assembly = that would make the whole air/fuel ratio control totally worthless = won't restrict any fuel, because linkage isn't attached, internally.
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3406B rear governor housing_in paint program.jpg (113KB - 1376 downloads)
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Sparta, WI | The AFC valve was not hooked into the fork. It hardly smokes now! Thanks!
Edited by Trucker1 7/17/2015 19:34
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | Thanks for the update = at least it was a simple, cheap fix. |
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Sparta, WI | I've watched that truck smoke for 3 years and it was a 10 minute fix. Thanks for the knowledge, not many people around my area that are familiar with B's let alone PEECs |
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3406 peec conversion
