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| Tried finding helpers. IF I could find one would need them 10 minutes 6 separate times so probably isnt going to happen. 3/4 cdx is HEAVY and awkward for one guy. I forgot how it likes to slide off the roof if your not holding it every second till you nail tight.
So my question IS ,,,if you absolutely HAD to put this on a roof ALL by yourself how would YOU do it
and after all 15 sheets get up 37 sheets of 1/2 osb to follow asap,,but not same day |
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| When I was little (too small to help lift heavy sheets on a ladder ) Dad made a small jib boom from some pipe. Slid it down through the roof and secured inside. It could pivot 360 degrees. I would drill small 1/4" holes in a sheet of plywood and insert a lifting eye in it. Hook the block and tackle through the eye then use the lawnmower to pull the rope on the block and tackle to get the sheet up to him. Once up he could grab the sheet and pivot it over onto the roof. He would put several nails in to hold it and mark where the rafters were then I would go up and help him screw them in place. This would have been about 1977 long before battery tool and deck screws. We drilled and countersunk every hole and used an electric drill with a straight screw driver bit to put in tapered wood screws. Dad did not want nails he wanted screws. Only picture I have sorry poor quality taken with 110 camera and scanned into computer. Edit: This was the old school "it builds character" method before we had loader or skidloader and no real other way to get sheets up there. How high is your roof edge ? do you have access to loader, forklift, stacked flatbed wagons to get sheets up to edge of roof ? Does lumber yard have boom truck they could set them on the roof for you? just don't set all the sheets in one place though. Nail some cleats down to keep sheets from sliding off or around.
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NC Iowa | i would try very hard to find help. one slipup trying to do this yourself could be bad news. any local dairy farmers? they might be able to get some mexicans lines up to help by the hour. otherwise hard to find help for almost anything around here too. |
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northeastern Ohio | My house roof has a 12/12 pitch and the eve is 24' off the ground. I went to a consignment sale in 1996 and bought a 40' manlift for about $4000. I used this thing to put a new roof on as well as new windows and siding. I did 90% by myself with some help from my wife (she had a town job at the time). After I was done with the house, I used it to fix roof on many barns as well as painting, trimming trees, ect. In 2006, I took the manlift back to the same consignment auction and sold it for $4000.
Since then, I bought 2 newer manlifts: a 40' and a 60'. I am planning on putting a new roof on a barn this summer. |
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| Wish we would have had a man lift for this one.
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Huntley Montana | Maybe a few LONG 2x6s against the roof at a angle, Rope across the ridge to something stable, then a Pulley system hooked to plywood to pull the plywood into place on the roof, then tie off & go up & screw it down. Going to be a "few trips" but you could do the hard work standing on the ground. Got a grain truck? power pole strapped to bed as a "gin pole" & raise hoist to lift plywood onto roof could work also. Last word is GET A SAFTY HARNESS & USE IT when on the roof by yourself. Make sure your cell phone is sucure also . |
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Houston County, GA | Why 3/4 on a roof, 1/2 inch OSB is code here. Could go with 5/8 if wanted to beef up. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | How high? Roof pitch? Tractor with loader available? Scaffolding? Use roof jacks? I've seen those pulley systems on extension ladders, too.(to lift shingles and such) Edit: these photos, are 3/4" plywood, and later, I purchased more scaffolding, when sheetmetal went on=need more safety. {Also, there is metal square tubing under plywood on loader bucket, slide on manure tines}
Edited by 4WD 4/24/2015 12:14
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| reason for 3/4 is the rest of the sheathing is is 1 bye ??? lumber sheathing. The ONLY way would be to tear off whole side of sheathing and all and replacing with 4 X 8 sheets. A little more dangerous working by myself. I pick my weather window and only tear off what I can cover back that day or the next. The 3/4 splices nicely and is same space wise as 1 byes so built on soffits and rake overhang is stronger etc.
Then next problem is when I tear off the rest of the shingles the sheathing lumber was some #5 wood or lumber yard scrap,,,it has holes,knotholes as big as a volley ball and alot of them. Hand nailing they used tin chunks to cover the holes which works but poorly. SO using an air gun have to have semi solid surface to nail too so covering all with 1/2 osb,,,cutting ridge vent across the top and stuffing insulation barrier baffles in the lower rafter bay. THIS will keep shingles from curling and premature death.
As was asked access to back of house is very limited since lot line is about 5 foot behind house. Only front of house access. roof is 4 /12 so not steep. About9- 10 feet to edge from ground.
Thought about using the skid loader but controlling a 4 x 8 heavy sheet in a dirt bucket. My skid bucket sinks so fast. Dealer I bought it from says that it is supposed to but at times I dont like that. Can you put a 1/4 turn valve on bucket tip,,, hydraulic line and use my cylinder stop for the main arms?????What kind of bucket etc would be best for 4 x 8 sheets??? have a manure tine bucket and could slid some pipe on the teeth for length I guess
Thanks for all the posts and info...gives me much to think about. |
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SE Nebraska | Can you cut the sheets in 1/2? Would be more seams in the sheathing, but since you're covering it with OSB probably wouldn't matter all that much. Just stagger them between rows and layers. Lots easier to manage 1/2 sheet of 3/4 by yourself. |
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west central Iowa | If I was going to do it I would chain a 16' feed bunk to my tractor loader bucket and lift them up there with that. When I use the loader like that I screw a safety rail to one side of the feed bunk and chain the bucket so it can't dump and prop up the loader with a post. |
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| I once had a similar project. I built a sturdy table from sawhorses- screwed everything together. Anchored two sloped 2 x 4s to the table and at the eave. Drove a screw in each one not quite as high as I could reach from the table, leaving the heads stick up maybe 1/2". From the table I could push one sheet up and let it rest on the screws. This left the top end high enough that I could climb onto the roof and take from there. Before I brought a sheet up, I partially drove two 'resting' screws maybe 4' 2" down from the previously installed sheet. Wrestle the new sheet to let it rest on the screws while I snapped chalk lines, then shoved it into position and placed a couple screws to hold it. This process provides safety and rest breaks in the lifting/handling process. If your project is like mine, there weren't that many sheets that had to go up whole. |
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putting 3/4" plywood on a roof by yourself
