|
|
Amherst WI | I have a 535 baler. I just got it last winter and I went out to bale some feed for the cows and the twine arms went 1/2 way through a cycle and stopped. I did what the manual said to do and they still won't go back. Any suggestions? |
|
| |
|
| I have a jd 530 baler & had your problem when I got mine . I had to rebuild cylinder that runs arm, ps JD wants you to buy a new cylinder, but I found a hyd. repaire shop in collinsville, il that cut it into & rebuildt it. Also, make sure that all the slack is out of the slide mechanism that cotrols the bale size & that it doesn't bind up & twine arm belt needs to be adjusted right, so that it doesn't start to turn until proper bale size is made.
hope this helps, I know from experience that it can be very frustrating when hay is ready to bale & baler doesn't work right! Ben there done that!
|
|
| |
|
Texas | first open the gate to re latch the system ,is the belt that turns the twine pump turning .
sounds like the belt is broken to the pump
i faught my 435 for 2 seasons ,called deere directly,no solution . finally found out i had a bad (weak twine pump
if you plumb in a gage the pump should put out 1200 psi. ,when the pump starts going bad it will turn hard and eat a twine pump belt every 20 bales
Edited by tommyw-5088 5/26/2008 16:22
|
|
| |
|
Wy | You need to open it aways to get them to cycle, to far and they wont. not enough and they wont. Happens all the time on mine when you discharge less then a full bale that hasnt wrapped. Maybe you tried that. |
|
| |
|
| Couple other things to remember...and watch out for. if you open the gate before it trips, the arms will cycle. Like when you are sitting in the driveway doing maintainance. Make sure they finish their cycle before you close the gate or they will stop where they are. As far as your problem, if everything looks ok, try to trip it manually or if the belt is ok,but not tight, take a screwdriver and hold some tension on the belt that drives the pump to see if you can get the arms to return home. I'm sure you checked the oil in the pump. those balers have a couple quirks that you have to learn, then they work great. |
|
| |
|
| Check two things first before you go for the rebuild route. I baled 20,000+ bales through my first 535 and never had a problem with this. There is a spring on the back there somewhere, see if that is broke. The main thing to check is the oil filter. If this is an older baler it probably needs changing. Be sure to fill filter with correct oil when installing new one. |
|
| |
|
Kansas | Also.........
Twine arms get stuck going over half way walk out and pull the trigger that they hit that reverses the flow and sends them back over to the home position. Good possibility they will take back off and come over and you'll have half a bale tied.
Now I can't remember if you can just pull your rope and make the arms take off again or if you have to reset the full bale trigger on the right side of the machine. If you can find it and reset it and then pull the rope the arms should go clear across and tie the whole bale then before you eject it. If not and it only goes half way then there is a possibility that underneat there is a rectangular block that has a grease zerk on it and alot of people never see that zerk and it doesn't get greased and it can bind on that shaft and stop the arms from going clear across. Plus the other ideas some have tossed out.
Whenever I had this happen I slightly changed settings on the twine arm speed and it usually fixed it.
That twine arm system on those balers were the biggest downfall. I still have mine from new in 92 and like it except for that stupid twine arm system. That and it doesn't start a bale of feed worth a crap. Alfalfa, straw, grass, no problems. Try to bale something long stemmed like cane and it is forever making a core so you can get rolling and make a bale. Once it starts the core, no problems. Getting the core started on Feed will drive a man to drink and wish a bearing go out and set the green p.o.s. on fire. |
|
| |
|
Texas | Rich - 5/26/2008 19:58
Also.........
Twine arms get stuck going over half way walk out and pull the trigger that they hit that reverses the flow and sends them back over to the home position. Good possibility they will take back off and come over and you'll have half a bale tied.
Now I can't remember if you can just pull your rope and make the arms take off again or if you have to reset the full bale trigger on the right side of the machine. If you can find it and reset it and then pull the rope the arms should go clear across and tie the whole bale then before you eject it. If not and it only goes half way then there is a possibility that underneat there is a rectangular block that has a grease zerk on it and alot of people never see that zerk and it doesn't get greased and it can bind on that shaft and stop the arms from going clear across. Plus the other ideas some have tossed out.
Whenever I had this happen I slightly changed settings on the twine arm speed and it usually fixed it.
That twine arm system on those balers were the biggest downfall. I still have mine from new in 92 and like it except for that stupid twine arm system. That and it doesn't start a bale of feed worth a crap. Alfalfa, straw, grass, no problems. Try to bale something long stemmed like cane and it is forever making a core so you can get rolling and make a bale. Once it starts the core, no problems. Getting the core started on Feed will drive a man to drink and wish a bearing go out and set the green p.o.s. on fire.
if you have trouble starting a core of sudan .... turn off the pto jam up the pickup ,then turn the pto on ,it will start 90+% of bales like this. |
|
| |
|
North Cental Mo. | Rich, have you ever put an updated roller in it? It makes a world of difference.
Roy |
|
| |
|
North Cental Mo. | Half way through a cycle? Do you mean it went half way across , or went all the way and wouldn't come back, or just got half way across from the back cycle? My first thought was it got caught up in a compression rod, my second thought was plugged filter, or no oil in the pump. You can grab the arms and pull them back and reset and try it again.
Roy |
|
| |
|
SW North Dakota | Rich - 5/26/2008 17:58
That and it doesn't start a bale of feed worth a crap. Alfalfa, straw, grass, no problems. Try to bale something long stemmed like cane and it is forever making a core so you can get rolling and make a bale. Once it starts the core, no problems. Getting the core started on Feed will drive a man to drink and wish a bearing go out and set the green p.o.s. on fire.
What my brother and dad did to our 530 was add some strips of metal to the starter roll bars. Says it starts bales everytime now, even with over 1/2 worn belts. I'll try to add a pic I took to show what I mean.
 (0106800000.jpg)
Attachments
----------------
 0106800000.jpg (22KB - 1475 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Amherst WI | It went to the other side and did not want to come back home. I topped off the oil just before I took it out today. I could try a new filter. I'll try these ideas tomarrow. |
|
| |
|
just a tish NE of central ND | The tie arm isnt catching on the pickup arm is it?
When I got my 535 it wouldnt tie correctly from bale 1. after some looking around, it had a roll pin sheared off in a joint on the tie control mechanism near the hyd pump.We re-aligned the joint holes and removed old peices of sheared roll pin, replaced the pin and away we went. My neighbor also had a delema with his 535. Seems he was used to just shortining a belt when the lace went bad.Soon the belts were just a little too short and that effected the tie mechanism function........cant remember for sure how it is made, but I do know the bale forming belts length has to be right for it to work properly with the tie arm cycling and the pump belt tension.. |
|
| |
|
Rome, KS | Rich,
Just weld some beads on the square stock on the starter roll. Not continuous, just every once in a while and it will make a new baler out of it.
Have done this on 2 and you wondered how in the heck you could have been so stupid not to think of it sooner |
|
| |
|
just a tish NE of central ND | Does it trip the return trip mechanism properly? |
|
| |
|
northwest tennessee | It could have trash in the system too. Mine did that and it doesnt have to be much. The book talks about this problem and there is a little part in there that can get plugged. |
|
| |
|
WCIN | If you change the filter and oil (automatic transmission fluid if i remember right) be sure to cover the tank with a rag and blow some air from your air compressor in there while running the baler full speed. The twine arms should take right off. The book covers this in one section or another. |
|
| |
535 Baler won't cycle twine arms
