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s.e. Pa | I have rented a no till drill for several years to plant beans, wheat, and hay. Renting is nice, but has some downfalls too. I'd like to buy my own. I'd like a 10' model because it will be easier to move on the road. What kind of drill should I look for? My budget is maybe 10k or so. I see tye drills for less than this, hay busters around 10k and john deere 750's for maybe 13k and up. I have seen some other drills fairly cheap, but was worried about parts. What do you think? Thanks,
Josh |
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SW Ohio | 15' 750 drill, come out west and pick one up cheap. You really should be able to get one for 10k, it will need some parts but just replace what you have to right away (kind of a payment plan). I sold mine for 11000......I promise you wont regret a 15. they are easier to find too, and plenty of aftermarket parts available. |
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Kingston,Mi | The first rental drill our Conservation district bought was a Haybuster/Vermeer 107 in 1984, it ran a lot of acres and eventually was sold about 1988 to a farmer who continues to use it. Several years ago I saw an ad where John Deere was selling a Frontier 107, same drill painted silver and green so the parts availability should be good with several sources. The district and the no-till technician were satisfied with the 107 but needed a wider drill and purchased a JD 750 15 ft. I would not be afraid of the 107's or a JD 750 and have never been around a Tye except at Farm Shows. |
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northeastern Ohio | The JD 750 would probably fit your budget and is a true no-till drill. Some of these other "no-till" drills have problems getting good penetration without adding a lot of weight or a set of coulters up front. The coulters add a lot of maintenance cost. |
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Schlegel Farms, Hagerstown Indiana | I think Deere makes the best No-Till drill.
That said, if you are set on a 10' model, it would be easier to find a Great Plains.
I had a Great Plains years ago, and it was a well-built machine and parts were easy to get.
The biggest downfall was setting the seeding rate and depth control. |
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| The 10 foot drill market has the price higher than what a 15 foot unit would bring. As I read your post, you are saying you live in an area where a 15 footer is really too wide ( going down roads and maybe thru field roads and fences). I get that. Great Plains and JD are the two I have used. Either would work well and have good parts availability. Might be hard to find one in your budget. I am not sure if that niche of the equipment market has gotten any softer with weaker grain prices. Its nice to have your own rig and not have to worry about its availability when you need it. Good luck. |
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Northeast Indiana (Auburn) | A lot of ten foot no-til drills except JD are end wheel drills and will be about 13' wide. The Deere 15' 750 would be easier to road than a 10' end wheel drill due to where the wheels are. 10' Deere 750 drills are hard to find and will cost as much or more than a 15' 750. A 1994 750 will bring around $10,000 to $15,000 around here. If you have the hp I would get the 15' 750. I'm still using my 1993 15' 750 and it has been over several thousand acres. I plan on using it this year and next year then I will see what it is worth at my auction. |
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Oklahoma | Run from older 104-xxxx Tye drills, they are cheap for a reason. I have totally rebuilt one, parts weren't too bad but when we got done we still had the problems we started with, conditions had to be perfect for it to work in a true no-till setting if you have tight ground. They will work on wheat but soybeans it will cost you in the long run. I think the newer models of the last 10+ years are much better and more forgiving. Been around two conservation districts that had newer Tye and/or GP, both worked really well and both transported them on Donahue trailers so they weren't fighting width issues. Just have to have a folding hitch and that can get you a little more size. Deere seems to have a good reputation as well. |
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Mid-Michigan | I think I'd go with the JD. There's a million of them around. Don't you think maybe a 15 footer? 10 sure seems small. |
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NW Washington | JD's are probably the best no-till drills, but they are expensive and require a lot of maintenance. I think a Haybuster would get the job done if you set it up right. I recommend a pass on the orphan Tye drills. |
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Embarrass WI | Does nobody in your area use a 6 row planter? Same width as a 15' drill. |
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s.e. Pa | There are some 6 row planters, and some 15' drills. They usually move with an escort. More popular is an 8 or 12 row planter that turns to transport. There are a lot of 10' drills, and air drills that fold are starting to become popular. Our roads are really bad. We have hilly, winding roads, that are narrow. And enough population that they are heavily travelled by cars, and usually they are going pretty fast. Combines almost never move with the head on.
Josh |
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s.e. Pa | Mainly roads is my problem. Roads are tough for everyone here, but I am a small farmer with a lot of small fields. I am often planting 2 acres here, 4 acres up the road, and so on. A lot of transport compared to the time the machine is working. Your right about 10' bringing a premium. It seems all small equipment really holds its value.
Josh |
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Central MN | I know Truax builds drills with rear transport wheels so the end wheel can hang over in the ditch. Heres a picture from their website
 (dual-rear-transport.JPG)
Attachments
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 dual-rear-transport.JPG (13KB - 499 downloads)
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southeast Pa | We like our deere notill drill and the job it does, but be advised that they can be very expensive to rebuild. If you get a 750 make sure that it is a later model. they have replacable bushings on a few places where the early ones do not. You could talk to someone like churchtown farm equipment because they specialize in deere drills. they might be able to tell you what to look for as far as problems. so far i have used this kit on 2 drills and am guessing that most older drills will need it as well. |
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swohio | I have a 10' GP. Love it. It's not perfect seeding depth, but I tinker with it and get great stands and yields with it. I don't use it a lot as I have a split row planter for beans. I do use it for cover crops and it works great. I do use it almost every year to plant some beans. I have used a 10' and 15' 750. Like the GP way better. If you have smaller fields, you will hate the 750 if has dolly wheels. The GP is close to 13' wide, and you have to watch going down narrow roads, But it is so easy to get around small fields. It will also plant though anything. Coulters on the front really make it work great. I can get a lot done in a day with it, even though it's only 10'. Also takes up very little space in the barn. My vote would be for the GP. |
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Carroll, OH | We have used a Krause 5200 13ft drill for years. Had to trade down from a 15ft due to road traffic increase a few years ago.
Very reliable and easy to use. Parts are easy for us because there is a dealer nearby.
We like the walking tandem double disc opener better than the single disc on the JD and parallel arms/ seed depth and placement on the GP. |
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Leesburg, Ohio | Every air drill I have ever seen is wider folded up than a 15' 750. And the wheels on a 750 are fairly narrow, so you can hang it over in the ditch a good ways without a problem. They are great drills, there are lots of them, and fairly cheap. Most will need some steel replaced, but like the other poster said above, you don't have to do it all at once.
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| Yeah, if your moving around alot the 10ft is probably a better idea................15ft on alot of roads here is too much, and the idiot drivers in this state do not help. Most guys on here don't realize we have roads here with a rock wall on one side and a guard rail on the other, you can't hang anything out over. If your going to drill 50 acres then its worth the headache to move a 15 around, but if your planting 7, moving to another 10, then to 14, a 10ft drill might be a better idea. |
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middle TN | I have rented JD, Haybuster, and Great plains drills all in the 10' size. I have also used a Crust-Buster, but it is wider, I think 25', It does a good job, just not handy to get around in my pasture system. They all are good machines, really not a whole lot of difference in performance. The Deere is the easiest to set the seeding depth. The Haybuster takes some time to set, but it will do an equal job here, if you take the time to get the depth and down-pressure set for your conditions. If you come across one that needs opener discs, then price accordingly. They aren't a big deal to change, I have no idea what they cost, but the drill will not perform with worn out discs. I would guess the other brands are just as dependent on lack of wear, but the Haybuster is the only one I have tried to use worn-out and didn't get the results I wanted. The Great Plains seemed to be the least consistent in depth and placement, although that could be the rental drill that I have access to, it is showing some wear. The Great Plains is also the only one of the 3 that is end-wheel type too, so a little wider to get down the road. If money and travel width were the primary concerns, I wouldn't be afraid of any of the three. I don't see enough difference in performance here to choose the Deere over the Haybuster or the GP, if the Deere is much more expensive. |
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S & Way E PA | Two years ago I purchased a 10' 750 for 10k. No dolly wheel, pull it with 4440 very easily, just a pain to turn around, need 40, 50' of end rows. We have the same trouble with traffic and narrow roads, the 10' is awesome to pull down the road, wish I had 15' when I get to the field but don't have enough acres to justify it. And probably when there are enough acres it would be easier to find another 10' and a spare dolly wheel and set up a Houck hitch to keep road width down.
As far as maintenance, it's a pain to grease and parts aren't cheap, but it will drill into anything and hasn't cost me that much per acre yet. |
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Sanilac Co. Michigan | I ran a 10' Great Plains for a long time. I thought the seed drop was very accurate as far as either #/acre or # of seeds per acre. I don't believe the maintenance was any worse than a 750, and at that it was still cheaper to work on. I also believe it did a better job of sowing when conditions were less than ideal, but maybe you always have perfect planting conditions so the 750 would do. |
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se wi | First off, you need to decide whether you want a till plant style with a lead coulter or a low disturbance true no-till such as a Deere. Had a Great Plains here first, then bought a Deere, both were 10 ft. A till plant will work the soil, exposing more weed seeds and promote more evaporation.
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North Central Missouri | I had a 10' JD 750 and it took 10 acres to turn around and get lined up. 15' width works much better. |
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north west arkansas | I bought 10' Great Plains last year and it works really nice. |
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Soldiers Grove Wi. 54655 | Same here~ I have a 10 ft. Great Plains and it's worked very well for me over the years. It depends on what the area is like where you live. Narrow roads?, hill roads? narrow gates? I rent my drill out quite a bit and one person who owns a 15ft drill rents mine as he has several hill roads he can't get his 15 ft drill up.. As well as some of the backroads and the narrow bridges. It's just my personal choice but I rented a John deere with the dolly wheels on it and I didn't care for it as it took a lot of area to turn it around. Also if on contour strips if there was much of a bend in the strip the no till coulters didn't line up with the seeding discs very well. In a large flat field it was nice though. |
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No till drill for small farm?
