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Germany | We recently bought a 2002 2388 combine with around 2000 separator hours. When taking it apart we found that the front of the chaffer rails had cracks and pieces broken out. There has also been some welding on the left pitman assembly. The other components of the shaker system seem to be all right...see photos below.
Doing some reading on this topic I found basically 3 items that might prevent that the rails break again in the future:
- Use the "SHAKER SYSTEM ALIGNMENT KIT" to align the left and right side of the shaker. This seems to me the most likely cause since the rails are broken on the front end where the left and right side are connected...
- Install the "cleaning system repair kit" from Heartland repair services. Not sure if this helps since there seem to be no problems at the rear of the shaker which could be caused by the shaker hitting the mount of the rear axle
- Change bushings. Most of them look o.k. but will replace a few that look worn out...
Do you agree that the left/right alignment should be the most important thing to do for this shaker system to prevent problems in the future? What else would you repair/install?
Thanks a lot for your feedback!
Peter
Edited by PeterB 3/30/2015 13:32
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| I would start by taking the shaker shaft (don't know if that's what it's called, but it's the hex shaft in your picture. It drives the shaker system and the augers under the rotor) out and checking the condition of said shaft. If it is rounded it doesn't matter how all other alignment stuff is done, you'll break more stuff in th future.
This is based upon experience with a 1480. I would imagine the 2388 is the same. |
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North West IA/western AZ | While it is apart, I would put all new bushings in and maybe think about adding the wishbone kit to stiffen the side of the combine. I would not reuse a shoe that has been torn up that much, but it might work. I've never timed mine but I think it would be a good idea. |
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just a tish NE of central ND | Here is my take on it....... it is the same as about most any broken shaker system. Something is loose and banging around. You clearly have bushings that are shot so throw them all away and start fresh. EVERY single one of them should be replaced. Bearings need be tight as well as sieve parts to stop the banging of stuff. Your ratchet clutch under that pulley can also wear in the mounting holes and bang as the shaft rotates.
As far as alignment, it is aligned on a hex shaft with a half moon key. if the key. If that goes in the shot properly you cant have it out of time on the shaft. It needs to be centered in its stroke (centered in the slots and then tighten the bushings down tight) as to keep bushings from twisting too far to one side or the other, its very important to get that at least close to centered in the slot. Over twisting will destroy them. |
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Southern Illinois | make sure the hex shaft mentioned above is not worn or twisted. This causes alot of out of time wear and breaking. |
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Nagambie | Start by replacing those rails, (you have an unfamiliar machine, no point messing around with other peoples dodgy repairs.) check the hex shaft for wear where the bearings are located, also check for twisting of the shaft. If either is present, REPLACE.
As to the welding that has been done in pictures 183 and 187, from what i can see it should not be a problem. However, if that was an easy bolt in panel I might consider replacing it, bit hard to make that call without seeing it in the flesh.
Replace ALL bushes and bearings in the shaker system starting with the bearings on the hex shaft and work back. There is absolutely no point in only replacing some bushes that appear bad and finding out in a short time that some other bushes were bad also and that you are back where you started with a busted cleaning system again.
If possible, get hold of a workshop manual as that contains the dimensions as to how far to push each bush into the various components. It also has details about shimming the shaker box from side to side. The workshop manual details how to align the system without the Alignment Tool. Personally, I bought the tool when I overhauled my cleaning system as I wasnt all that confident of getting it right first time up. Tighten all bush etc bolts up when the system is in the center of its stroke.
Most important thing is to take your time, check and double check everything as you go. Dont take short cuts or it will come back to bite you. |
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Ionia Co. Michigan | In your last pic it appears some of the bushings are still original as there is still red paint on them and the bolts. 1000 hours is the max on the bushings or problems will start as you have now. Adhere to the 1000 rebush time frame and the shaker will be happy. Replace all bearings on the hex shaft at that time also including the banjos and especially the one behind right hand drive pulley. That one went out on mine and took out other things until I found it. The right hand banjo is fun to get out but is not impossible. I replaced 3 or so bushings to get finished but over the next summer I replaced the entire set of bushings and have had 2 harvests since and no problems. The hammering of the bad bearing ended out tearing apart the washboard part at the front too. |
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| Bob MI - 3/30/2015 15:11
In your last pic it appears some of the bushings are still original as there is still red paint on them and the bolts. 1000 hours is the max on the bushings or problems will start as you have now. Adhere to the 1000 rebush time frame and the shaker will be happy. Replace all bearings on the hex shaft at that time also including the banjos and especially the one behind right hand drive pulley. That one went out on mine and took out other things until I found it. The right hand banjo is fun to get out but is not impossible. I replaced 3 or so bushings to get finished but over the next summer I replaced the entire set of bushings and have had 2 harvests since and no problems. The hammering of the bad bearing ended out tearing apart the washboard part at the front too.
Are the 2388 worse than the 2166 size? We had a 2166 and had over 3000hrs before we ever put bushings in it. And they didn't really look bad then. Have a 7088 now and wonder how long it will last. |
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western NY | Change all bushings and all the bolts that go thru the bushings. I learned the hard way, I had bolts that broke two different time one fall on a 1680 and both times cost me a lot of time and money. |
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swohio | X10 what everybody said. Change all bushings, no matter what. As most said, if you don't, WILL come back and bite you. |
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NW Iowa | Lots of good advice.
I'll add to be certain you change the stub shaft and needle bearing on each side, the one that's a daily grease point. The shafts can wear ever so slightly and set up a lot of banging and slamming that could lead to those broken rails among other things.
Above it was stated to tighten every new bushing (with new bolts) in the center of the stroke. The biggest bushings, one on each side above the needle bearings, are to be tightened at the very front or very back of the stroke, per CaseIH Pro Harvest reps. All others tighten in the dead center.
Someone else said take your time. Yes, take your time and double check. Its a fairly sensitive system. |
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45 miles south spingfield il. | Are you sure your machine only 2000hs on separator? Lots of stuff looks twisted to me, don't go the cheap way. Not sure on 2388 but on my 1680 I could get heavy duty bushings- of course dealer didn't have any in any of the five stores. I get worried about bushings after about 4 years. |
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Ionia Co. Michigan | Yes on my 1660 I had good life on the bushings and never had anything tore up. The 80-88 series with the wider sieves is more finicky about shaker maintenance. |
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Elkmont, AL | Replace the hex shaft and eccentric cast bushings in the pitman arms. Nothing else will work right until you do, at 2000 hrs I would assume they are bad. |
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MO | Everyone else has pretty well covered it. You've inherited someone else's half a**ed repair jobs and problems, congrats...LOL Replace ALL bushings and ALL bolts and lock nuts. They are all past due. Check your hex drive shaft, pretty good chance its rounded. Someone has let that system hammer for way too long, replace it all or fight it in the middle of the season. The new rails will be a little heavier made so that helps too. They are a fine system unless a steering wheel holder just drives with vibrations and sounds for way too long. BTW check your chopper out, I see you have a bolt missing and one that has been freshly replaced on the panel that holds the chopper bearing. It is/was missing a knife or is out of balance... |
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Kalona, IA | maxflex540, I really find it hard to understand why it would be proper to tighten the drumstick bushings at the end of the stroke vs in the middle. Anybody else care to chime in on this issue?
I would pretty much echo all the other advice on the shaker system. I bought a 2700 hr. 2388 last fall and spent a LOT of time redoing a lot of it. Ended up putting in a plastic sieve chaffer which is MUCH lighter. Took me awhile to trace down all the various reasons for a "bumping" cleaning system. My final "test" is to feel each shaker arm and pivot point that can be "safely" touched and do it at an idle all the way up to operating speed. You must be very careful and cognizant of where every finger is as I did lose a little skin on 1 finger. |
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Germany | Thanks a lot for all the helpful feedback! Is there a tool available to make it easier to change the shaker bushings? |
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MO | Yes, Case sells a deal that will fit over the bushings and it makes pressing them in 100 times easier. |
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Germany | Thanks! Do you have by chance the part number of the tool to press in the bushings? |
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western NY | B96214 Shaker arm bushing tool kit, I just looked it up price is $326.00, when I bought mine 8 or 10 years ago I think it was about $175.00 |
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| I just ordered the bushing tool kit. Is that thing pretty self explanatory when I get it? When I look at the picture I'm not sure what I'm looking at. |
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Case 2388 Shaker Repair
