|
|
SC WI | I am a young farmer that currently uses conventional till. I am going to purchase a JD 7000, 7200 planter. I want to know what I need to have the ability to no till successfully. I would try it on a small scale basis but would eventually like to move toward no till. Any advice would be appreciated!
Ps Looking for a 6, 8 row narrow if anyone knows of one
Edited by Brewersfan 1/8/2015 13:47
|
|
| |
|
Geuda Springs, Kansas | The beuty of a john deere planter is you can buy virtually anything for it. You are going to have many give you lots of opinions on this site. Until you just start trying things in your soil you probably wont know exactly what works. |
|
| |
|
Wisconsin | See my post below to the "No-Till Setup" thread.
I use a 4RN 7200 Conservation Frame planter. Works great. Any Q's, just ask. |
|
| |
|
| In a lot of cases nothing is needed on these planters to successfully no-till. However, there may be situations that call for any number of add-ons or mods. Going into heavy trash you may want to part the trash with row cleaners, you may need more aggressive closing wheels, etc. Try some and learn what works in your soil and residue situations. |
|
| |
|
Macon, IL | Been lots of threads on this-a few in the last couple weeks. Definately search here and maybe even crop talk.
Depends are you thinking corn on corn? Or only no-tilling beans?
Also what you need to do seems to vary a lot from area to area-based on reading here a few years notilling in dry hard sandy soils or wet clay or damp heavy Central, IL soil, and norther timber soils may call for very different setups. FInd out what others in your area are successfully using.
|
|
| |
|
SC WI | corn on corn as well as new CRP and Fallow land. Most of my ground is sandy loam and some is heavy low ground. I want to put a starter down 2x2 if possible. Any recommendations on dry or liquid fertilizer. we have always had dry but was thinking of going to liquid. |
|
| |
|
| We have many customers call us about changing a planter to no-till or buying a planter and adding no-till coulters, row cleaners, closing wheels, spiked or otherwise. A lot of callers are thinking about adding no till fertilizer coulters or in the row pop up fertilizer. First consider, will the planter be worth more if you add these attachments, then think about how long you plan on using the planter. You can easily spend $1000.00 per row on attachments. Its hard to justify that expense on a planter that is 15 to 20 years old. Look for a used one with most of the features you want. Cheaper to buy used, than new. www.greendrills.com |
|
| |
|
Wisconsin | With dry, 2x2 is hard to do - it does not work in heavy residue. Mine has dry currently and I've basically set it up to side dress. Have not had any issues with slow emergence in heavy ground and cold late springs. If you want starter, run liquid in-furrow between the disc openers. |
|
| |
|
| We have a 6 row 36in 7200 conservation planter that has the same frame as an 8 row 30 in for sale. We notilled into wheat stubble, corn residue, and crp -- old hay stands etc. It has and I'd recommend Dawn row cleaners, single disk dry fert openers 2x2, heavy duty down springs, with 1 Dawn curvetine closing wheel. Has liquid Keaton seed firmers for in row liquid. This has worked real well in our varied soil conditions. We needed to go to a larger planter for more acres we aquired. Has the Precision Planting Vacuum disks. I'd go with a system like this. Depending on your soil conditions you could get by with double disk fert openers, but for CRP and no tilling into grass you'll want the single disks. |
|
| |
|
| No-til coulters and cast iorn closing wheels work great for no til. Thats how my 7200 is set up and could plant into concrete. Have yetter row cleaners on my CIH planter and they work good to. I dont like the rubber closing wheels for no-til it dosent work good "here" |
|
| |
|
SC WI | what about row markers when no tilling. I want to be able to see where I need to drive. Any Recommendations? |
|
| |
|
swmn | Is there anyone in your local area that is notilling successfully? Get as much advice from them as you can, it's hard for anyone to give solid advice from hundreds of miles away, we just don't know your soils and climate. Possibly share equipment for a year with someone until you are more comfortable. Notill corn on corn for a beginner could be bad in many ways. Some form of strip till will be much more forgiving if you have cold wet soils. You have only one chance to plant that crop. |
|
| |
|
| Row markers with the wavy coulter work very well. You'll find them on almost all conservation planters |
|
| |
|
Clark, SD | I run a 16 row 7000 planter yet. Works great and is built very well, plan on using it for quite a few more years. As for notilling with it, mine has yetters on the front and then also running precision planting down force to keep it at a constant depth. I dont use markers anymore but when i did the normal markers were easy enough to see when notilling into wheat, the only issue you might run into with not being able to see the mark is in corn on corn. |
|
| |
|
EC INDIANA | i no tilled with a jd 7000 for about 15 years, corn after drilled bean. Works ok.
I had row cleaners and no till fertilizer openers. I would look for something with a heaver frame. |
|
| |
|
WTN | Go to your farm extension office, they should have all the information you need on no tilling in your area. |
|
| |
|
| The 7000, 7100 (three point mount, same row units as 7000), 7200, and 7300 (same relation to 7200 as 7100 to 7000) aren't in need of a lot of modification for no till. The factory "notill" wide wavy coulter is a back idea in my soil, it would plug up and turn into a stomping wheel.
I wrote more this morning at:
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=526063&mid=429...
Gerald J. |
|
| |
|
| Ive just had the row markers on that came with on the planter,. All i did was add weights to them. I think i got them from shoup, Its been several years. Only problem I have with them is if the ground is real turrfy it can be hard to see where the mark shows up. 99% of the time i dont have an issue with them tho. |
|
| |
|
Blue Grass (Eastern IA) | For no till you want a 6 row conservation or a 8or12 row front fold. They have the heavy frame and a lift cylinder at each wheel. We started with a regular 6 row and the drive wheels would slip sometimes because the row units were transferring all of the frame weight. We found we had to leave some fert. in the tanks for weight, couldn't run it all out. When we went to a FF we had no more problems. You need yetter heavy down pressure springs, trash wheels, Keaton seed firmer, 2 spiked closing wheels, heavy notched marker disks, single disk fert. coulter, and drag chains. I like the martin trash wheels and closers. No need for a notill coulter. You will have to replace the frog between the openers often, or you will wear out the seed tubes. You may get by with less equipment, but this will plant in anything. I have notilled into blue grass pastures and hay fields with amazing results. The key to notill is to wait for dry soil conditions. If you cut a slot in the mud to drop the seed in you are going to have problems all season. Better to delay planting a week or 2 than rush to beat the rain and mud it in. |
|
| |
|
| On my 4 row (wide converted to narrow) 7000 the brackets at the ends of the marker arms were bent so the maker disks were laying nearly flat on the ground. I took the brackets off and smashed them back square and had some gussets welded in and the the markers then make marks almost deep enough to guide the tractor front tires without having to watch. Would have worked better with single rib tires. On the little planter the markers can't be shortened to the tractor center and I found with the markers on the far tractor front wheel that I was able to keep guess rows off less than one inch.
Gerald J. |
|
| |
|
Statesville, NC | I like to run one new opener disc beside a worn disc, with around 3/8" difference in diameter. This gives a leading edge of 3/16 inch, so one disc does the cutting instead of two trying to cut at the same time. I took the unit mounted wavy colter off my 7000 conservation and put the different size openers on and the unit penetrates better, has much less bounce, and get better stands. I also run Yetter shark tooth row cleaners. They don't wrap up in heavy residue. One thing that is very important and often overlooked is unit level. There are a lot of planters running with the front too low and back too high. This can make a big difference getting the seed covered. I like to run the units very slightly lower in the back than the front when looking down the length, looks like running slightly "uphill". |
|
| |
|
Hopkinsville, KY | I've owned both. I liked the 7200 best for several reasons. It had better drive, better closing wheels and brackets, better lift and vacuum meters are so much better to me than finger. While the down fall of the 7200 is the shank. For us, it was not near heavy enough for strict notill. The best row unit in our ground that we ran was the kinze. I would imagine the white unit is good also. Currently, I'm looking at converting a 7000 to the vacuum meters, upgrading the drive and already have the updated closing wheels in place. That said, you can take and interchange or upgrade lots of parts between lots of the brands of row units. |
|
| |
|
SC WI | Why do you say vacuum is better than finger meters? more precise? have had very good luck with our current finger units |
|
| |
|
Hopkinsville, KY | 2 reasons, fewer moving parts, and less to calibrate to. The trade off is having to have a tractor with hydraulic capacity to run it. Finger pickups are great don't get me wrong, I just like vac better. |
|
| |
|
SC WI | Thanks everyone for the advice now I just need to find a planter and start experimenting :) |
|
| |
|
Clark, SD | How big of a tractor are you going to be pulling it with? |
|
| |
|
SC WI | CIH maxxum 140 multicontroller |
|
| |
|
Tri-State Area (WI, MN, IA) | nt |
|
| |
JD 7000, 7200 No Till
