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Upstate Ny | we just put up a 54 foot wide pole barn with split sliders facing the prevailing wind. too cold to pour concrete or secure the bottom of the door, so i just parked a dump truck behind them and ratchet strapped them tight for the winter. any ideas on how to secure the bottom middle of these doors? i am in ny state, and it gets cold, if i pour cement under the door should i go down 4 foot like footings in my area?? we are not going to concrete the building. |
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Black Hawk County, IA | My favorite way is to drill a 24" hole 4-5' deep, fill with concrete. Beforehand we bend 2 pcs of 1" round solid into big horseshoes. 24" on each leg and 12" across, set when wet just wide enough for the door track to fit between. No more rattling doors. J |
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| We poured a concrete center post with a slot for the doors to slide in. Its solid but make sure its below your frost level. Ours should have been a ft. deeper. It faces the north and frost will heave it some. Fortunately once winter sets in we don't need to move those doors till spring. |
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Western WI | Lone Wolf, could you send pics of your sliding door anchor, sounds interesting. |
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north-central Indiana west of Fulton | I would pour all the way across your door opening high enough to catch the bottom of your doors. This will hold back of doors so they won't bow, then have an approach out front (your choice of size) to cement in steel anchors and also give you a surface to clean snow easily in front of doors. We never went deeper than 18" directly below doors, and have not had problems. Some like to go more. We have a couple sets of doors like this that are 25 years old. They have RR iron in center and 1" rod bent in middle of each door. The cement all the way across also helps to avoid loss of dirt under doors then having a mud hole there.
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w-c wi | What we did was take 8" pvc pipe or what a 6" square post fits in. Drill hole 4' deep and poured concrete around it and level or 1" above with top of ground, drop 6" post in the hole and we capped the top with metal top and 2 " inches down the side lag screw it and used 2 turnbuckle's, welded the one end to cap on back side of cap so u have more of angle, pull pole out when doors r open and nothing to drive over, if it ever fills with dirt we just vac'ed it out once now in 5 years, just make sure your centered |
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w/c Illinois | I did something like Dave9110 suggested. I put a wall 6" wide just inside the door that is 3' into the ground and sticks up just high enough for the bottom of the door to slide along. It keeps the door from blowing into the building when it is released from the center support. I didn't put any concrete under or in front of the door, but if you go deep enough, heaving won't be a problem. An extra foot or two of depth on a 6" wall doesn't add much concrete or cost. It is a bit of a speed bump when entering or leaving the shed. That seems to be the biggest downfall. |
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| Had many older style sliders that slid in a poured concrete groove. Most miserable things ever. Dirt and moisture gets in concrete groove and makes doors hard to slide or freezes them completely shut in ice and snow. Keeps them form blowing but that's about it. Had some newer sliders made with bottom track that slides over rail on bottom when opened. Outside apron and floor are same level poured below frost level. Sank a pipe in concrete and made this receiver style unit for bottom track to slide over. No bump pushing things in the barn everything is smooth and level. Pour some antifreeze in the receiver pipe and no issues with freezing. Pics are in this previous thread may need to do something different since your not cementing inside. I just don't like having some support that should not be driven over. http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23642 |
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Morris, IL | We poured concrete footings down 4'. Have 2"x2" angle iron with rebar under it holding it in place. Our is 16" wide at the base (we have 16" backhoe bucket) but probably closer 20" at the top. It keeps birds out, keeps lot of snow out, and make getting the doors open in the winter much easier. The center post just bolted to the concrete. I'll attach some pictures.
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Black Hawk County, IA | I'm not home, will try tomorrow. J. Edit Chris look at Dave9110's pics, looks like mine only I only have one longer set where the doors come together. J
Edited by Lone Wolf Picker 12/31/2014 16:13
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| I saw an adjustable metal center guide at Farmfest several years ago. I found one at a lumber yard in west center MN that week. I wanted another and found I could get it ordered from National or Stanley, so I have another ordered through the local Jewell Farm and Home. I'm sure it can be had other places at a better price. It needs a deep post or a concrete pile to hold it. If pouring concrete its probably not all that better than two pieces of steel pipe bent into U shapes and cast in the concrete. Frost is your enemy so the bottom needs to be below frost.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=491802&posts=5...
Gerald J.
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Elmwood, Ne. Just East of Lincoln | This is what I did and it has worked great for 2 years. I put a pipe in the ground in concrete down below frost. Then on the inside of the door a pipe slides up and down that fits just right inside the ground pipe. On my wood frame door I put two flat irons for the pipe to slide in. They are drilled exactly the size of the pipe. I just pull the pipe up and turn it a quarter turn and it rests on the square iron that is welded on the flat iron. A high tech hose clamp holds it up. It is then adjustable so the pipe is held up to the bottom of the door frame for sliding. I welded a point on the bottom of the pipe so it doesn't have to be exact to slide in. If I just get it started in the hole and shake it a couple times, when I latch the outside of the door with an over center latch it usually falls on in. Was wondering if this was going to work whe I did it but so far has worked flawlessly. It's a 30 foot door. Two 15 foot sliders
Edited by Avg. Joe 12/31/2014 20:57
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NW Oh | +1 |
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Indiana | . |
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Williamsport IN | +1 |
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Central NC, Rowan County | . |
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pole barn split slider doors
