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Freedom, WI | We are hopefully going to look at a '98 8100 on Saturday and I was wondering what are the major points we should look for? It has 5000 hours and new tires.
The funny story is last year on Christmas Eve we went to pick up a heifer that we had processed and went past this guys place. I said I want a tractor like that. Well, a year later, that hope might just come true. lol |
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EC IL | Waterpump is about the only thing that comes to mind. I traded mine off at about 5000 hrs and honestly dont think I spent anything on it except front tires & batteries. I did have to replace a leaking waterpump under warranty, about the 2nd yr I had it. |
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thumb of mi | mfwd seals comes to mind. We had to change them. The rest has been mostly good |
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Sunnyside, WA | Under 5000 hours, not much. Fan clutch, exhaust gasket, MFWD seals, both cab fans, cab air filters, not much else. Drive it and see how it shifts. |
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Fontanelle, IA | Dad's trusted mechanic always mentions the exhaust manifold bolts. Apparently the 00's and the 10's had too soft of bolts. If they break, it's a tedious/long job (apparently) to get them out. And, once 1 breaks, the others start breaking too. I don't know if any thing else bad happens to the engine if/when one of the bolts breaks. |
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68340 | On my 1997 8200 likes to buck when shifting into 13th, that is if I am below 1500 rpm or so. You can get them to shift fairly smoothly if you have the right rpm. Yes, had to do the ex. man. bolts, front seals on a mfw, my heater fan is squealing now and needs some attention. All in all very satisfied. about 5500 hrs. I did not notice how much better the cab is until I drove my neighbors 4640 this fall. A 4640 is what I use to run and thought that was great. lol. |
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Coles County, Illinois | I got a copy of the service ticket for my 8100 when it had all the normal 4000 hour stuff done.
Valve cover gasket
Exhaust gasket and bolts
Turbo drain line
Water pump replaced
Steering cylinders rebuilt
MFWD seals replaced
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Lancaster, Pa | Just depress you're clutch just a 1/4 inch and it will shift into 13 th smooth at any rpm. This worked on the 3 or 4 in our area. |
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North Central Illinois | What happened with the 8110 you were dealing on a week ago or so? That looked like the perfect tractor for you. |
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68340 | x |
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ND | Had a 8100 now for four years, a 1999 yr, had the bearing go out in rear end-the shaft comes from the trans & goes into rear end, waited too long so troubles pile up. Like the tractor, better than the 4640 I still have, like the ability to have hyd controls in the cab, & the visibility. Did install a new water pump only because of preventative measures-also needed a new hyd pump under the cab-the way to tell here it kept blowing the orings under the stack valves-or another word the remote outlets. At least on these newer tractors you don't have to go into the tractor to replace items-they are mounted on the outside of transmission. Tractor has good power & MFWD. |
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ecsd | I bought an 8300 last spring and I have had to put a new frame, water pump, calibrate transmission, and pto, just to name a few things. The cracked frame was pretty expensive but the other things weren't bad. |
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Freedom, WI | For $85,000, it wasn't quite usable enough for us. It was a very nice tractor but we would have had to stick more money into it to get it exactly the way we want it. (front rims, possibly 3pt, and we wanted it with the 3 ptos) This one is just about set up the way we want and is a good bit cheaper. |
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| These are routine things I been doing to them or look at or replace with this amount of hours: not just 8100' the whole 8000 - 8010's
Exhaust manifold bolts
check the 3 point to be sure it goes up / down, see if it has been grease at all zerks, also try the switch on the fender
mfwd seals,
water pump
fan drive brgs / belt
battery cables and batteries
rear belt for A/C compressor, check the compressor and lines for leaks / oil film, check the tensioner
steering cylinders and lines for leaks, check the pivot pins
front crank damper
visc fan drive and tensioner
usually run valve clearances, usually have to replace rocker cover due to leaks,
depends on how it runs and its care, but many I'll have injection system checked, cleaned tuned up
usually check the turbo
cab headliner,
if possible, see if they will let you drain a little oil out of mfwd hubs and see what the gear lube looks like,
If you have a tech available, you could install the diagnostic fuse in and see if it has any codes....
take a jumper hose along and you can check each scv, if you have a 3000 psi ga, you could check scv psi, if you have that tech he can test at the DR's too
check tilt steering to see if the lock works to keep it up
check all exhaust piping , especially the elbows
pull the engine and cab filters
drain a little coolant from block or radiator to check its condition, check to see if hoses are getting hard or checked or cracked from heat
check block heater cord, if possible plug it in , listen to it if quiet enough to see if element is working
check front rim to dish bolts that any of the holes are not oblong from being loose
check drawbar for excess pin hole / top of bar wear
overall check of harness' and connectors for brittleness
check to see when filters have been changed, you'll have to crawl under to see for hyd and trans
check the rear inside cab filters
check the blowby, check engine oil / filters, if you can drain a little engine oil before starting, you might be able to tell if coolant is getting in the oil and how it starts when cold too.
drive it cold and warm to see if you see much difference in shifting, usually they will be more aggressive when cold, good time to check brakes and see if the engine pulls down some when you tap the pedals when in gear,
Here's one I run into every once in a while, check the rear serial number to see if it matched the model decal, dont laugh too hard, I have seen a couple pieced together 8000's so far ( they were not pretty on the outside either :-) )
I would run the serial number though, you can get some early history from Deere on it.
Check the quick hitch saddle hooks for excessive wear
These are all things I listed as they came to mind, I know there are some I missed and some overdone, but I have my own little checklist I go by when working on them, dont panic that ALL this stuff is faulty either, its just some common stuff I been seeing, a lot of the ones my customers have been buying have been real close to this hour range or more and if the tractor looks average t good condition, I would say on average spend another 3-5K, , to really make them decent looking and dependable for many years, some have come from "jockeys" and just needed some love.
I also realize certain conditons wont let you check all the above either, just tryin to give a heads up.
Around here they been really good tractors in reliability, performance and resale. I personally would like to replace my 4440 with a 8100.....someday.....did you hear that Santa ????? :-)
Good Luck
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What to look for on a JD 8100?
