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Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits
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tedbear
Posted 8/5/2014 08:12 (#4002693)
Subject: Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
I have a Deere 930F head that I use for soybeans. It came with the used 9650STS combine that I traded for some years ago. I was happy with the job it did when I first got it. I realize it will not cut as close or fast as the newer heads.

Trading for a newer style head would require a considerable amount of change. We don't have a lot of acres of soybeans so I plan on keeping the 930F. I have replaced guards and sickle sections through the years but I'm considering replacing all the cutterbar parts.

I notice that Shoup has kits that include everything that is needed. The kits are available with their single heat-treated or their double heat-treated guards. According to the chart, the single-heat treated kit is $ 1286.65 and the double heat-treated kit is $1391.05. This would supposedly be the Deere equivalent.

I assume the double heated treated guards would stand up better in rocky conditions. We don't have a rock problem and I only break a few guards during a complete harvest.

I have used Tiger Jaws and Cray products with other heads. I have no experience with the SCH Easycut system. I notice that Shoup has SCH kits as well. It appears that a 30' kit with wear plates is $ 1832.00 and with roller guides is $ 2089.00.

Given my age and the number of acres involved, I'm not sure how far I should go. Any advice or comments would be appreciated.

Edited by tedbear 8/5/2014 11:54
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pete37921x
Posted 8/5/2014 08:32 (#4002733 - in reply to #4002693)
Subject: RE: Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits


NE SD

E-Z cut, will double the value of the head !

Doubt you will break ANY guards

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biggrntractor
Posted 8/5/2014 09:52 (#4002866 - in reply to #4002733)
Subject: RE: Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits


Northern Illinois
Not sure if it will double the value of the head but you will like not having to adjust the sickle. Also the guards are spring steel and will out last or break as easy as the soft cast
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nosoup4u
Posted 8/5/2014 10:45 (#4002913 - in reply to #4002866)
Subject: RE: Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits


Can SCH parts be installed gradually (as the Deere ones break) or do you have to do it all at once?
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thompske
Posted 8/5/2014 11:01 (#4002930 - in reply to #4002733)
Subject: Sch with rollers. Nt


ontario. canada
J
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tedbear
Posted 8/5/2014 11:58 (#4002995 - in reply to #4002930)
Subject: RE: Sch with rollers


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
I talked to a friend today who has had the SCH with rollers on his 925F for a few years and he is happy. His had large rollers on the bottom of the sickle. I see now there are upper and lower rollers which is supposedly even better.

I called S.I. distributing directly. I could buy direct from them with free shipping, from Shoup with free shipping or a local dealer. The price seems to be the same with any of the choices so I will probably go with the local dealer.

Edited by tedbear 8/5/2014 12:13
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gpm
Posted 8/5/2014 14:43 (#4003193 - in reply to #4002995)
Subject: RE: Sch with rollers


NW Ohio
I have a SCH system from a JD630 that was removed with not a lot of acres on it. It has the roller guides. I have a spare sickle and a lot of near new guards (in addition to the set) - held up to a new one is about the same. I have quite a few new parts, too. I know that the total of what I have new is about $4400.00. These are the same as for the 900 or 200 series head. The drive head would be different. I was thinking around half of new for all and I'll pay the shipping.



(SCH cutter parts (1).jpg)



(SCH cutter parts (3).jpg)



(SCH cutter parts (5).jpg)



(SCH cutter parts (7).jpg)



(SCH cutter parts (8).jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments SCH cutter parts (1).jpg (147KB - 386 downloads)
Attachments SCH cutter parts (3).jpg (110KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments SCH cutter parts (5).jpg (144KB - 368 downloads)
Attachments SCH cutter parts (7).jpg (119KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments SCH cutter parts (8).jpg (127KB - 362 downloads)
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cz4586
Posted 8/5/2014 17:46 (#4003395 - in reply to #4002693)
Subject: RE: Complete Cutterbar Replacement Kits



NE Indiana
We have an SCH with upper and lower rollers on an Agco head. Really like it.
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tedbear
Posted 8/6/2014 05:51 (#4004258 - in reply to #4003395)
Subject: Did it


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
Thanks for the replies. Right or Wrong I ordered a kit directly from S.I. Distributing. It should look like the pics above except for the drive head.

Hopefully I can convince my old friend who has one to come out and offer advice during the install. Back some years (about 48), he and I installed many combine conversions when we worked for a local dealer. These were the Love or Hart-Carter setups. In those days the heads did not come with floating cutter bars - they were all rigid. It was very common for a farmer to buy a new head and have us strip off everything and install one of those kits. The kits were rather generic and we needed to get a bit creative at times. Hopefully this is not the case with the SCH kit.
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tedbear
Posted 8/6/2014 05:55 (#4004262 - in reply to #4003193)
Subject: RE: Sch with rollers


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
Thanks for the offer but I already ordered new. I'm little confused as to why a kit was installed on a 630 as I understood they worked so well with the original parts. Then the next question, once the kit had been installed, why was it removed? This scares me a bit.
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biggrntractor
Posted 8/6/2014 08:12 (#4004471 - in reply to #4004258)
Subject: RE: Did it


Northern Illinois

We put the head on the combine and raise it about 3' off the concrete floor. Raise the reel all the way up. lay out all the guards and rollers right behind the backbone. Set up a couple of 3/8 air or battery impacts. We have a couple of old office chairs with wheels so you can roll up and down the sickle. We install the guards, poly plates, rollers and just snug them. After we get them all installed we take a 2 lb hammer and tap the guard on the tip back toward the backbone then tighten the bolts the rest away. By tapping the guards we all but eliminated the hot spots at start up. Which is basically the beginning and end of checking adjustment on the system. When you put the assemble the knife sections make sure the bolts that are with the connector bars have plenty of locktite on them. I carry one of those cheapo rachets that have a 1/4 drive on 1 side and a 3/8 on the other that just fit in your fist so I don't break off the little bolts. In the morning when I check the head I walk down the sickle with this rachet and check the nuts on the section bolts and give them a little tweek. We slide the sickle in, rotate the wobble box to make sure the sickle registers correctly, run the head for a few minutes, check for hot spots and your done. On some heads you can leave the knifeback long enough (3") to put one extra sickle on the end opposite the drive. After 1 season or so you can un bolt the head, remove 1 section and cut off 3" of the knifeback  and re install the head and with the every other section upside down you can bring the sections to a different cutting surface on the guard. Also some people pull the sickle out and touch up the cutting edge on the guards with a 4' grinder.

If you have any problems call Todd at S.I.. Very helpful and has seen or heard about  any problem with any platform or sickle. Good Luck

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tedbear
Posted 8/6/2014 11:43 (#4004746 - in reply to #4004471)
Subject: Great Tips


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
Great advice. I talked to my old friend this morning and told him I had ordered the kit. Before I could ask he volunteered to help. I told him our working conditions should be much better than they were 48 years ago with my air conditioned shop. He has a battery powered impact and I have air impacts.

Thanks for the breakdown on the install. It makes sense to put the pieces on somewhat loose and then tighten them later. One thing I've always wondered about was how to adjust the knife register. On old sickle mowers there was an adjustment in the length of the pitman arm. I don't see how the register can be adjusted with the wobble box permanently mounted. Mine isn't in perfect register but very close.

Pretty clever idea about leaving the knife back extra long if possible. Your method should be easier than flipping every section to even out the wear. I suspect part of my ragged cutting is due the fact that the edges of the guards have probably rounded off through use. Squaring them up with a grinder might have helped. I have heard of people squaring up the edge of the auger in the head so that it grabs better.

I will print out your advice above and review it when we start which will probably be late next week. I was planning on doing it on the cart in the shop but it would probably be better to put it on the combine. It would be a little tight to get the 930F through the 30' shop door if it is on the combine. We will probably have to stand the heat and do the work on the apron outside the shop.

Edited by tedbear 8/6/2014 12:11
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biggrntractor
Posted 8/6/2014 13:57 (#4004938 - in reply to #4004746)
Subject: RE: Great Tips


Northern Illinois

Shouldn't be a problem, we get a 40 thru a 32' door.........Actually we back the combine in first and turn it perpendicular to the door and back the head in front of the combine and lift it off the cart and pull the cart out. We check the sickle to see if it registers but so far they always have.  

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gpm
Posted 8/6/2014 17:31 (#4005176 - in reply to #4004262)
Subject: RE: Sch with rollers


NW Ohio
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=488484&posts=1...

If this link doesn't work, search SCH easycut system. Good info in that thread about JD 600 series heads.

Edited by gpm 8/6/2014 17:32
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tedbear
Posted 8/7/2014 06:08 (#4006050 - in reply to #4004938)
Subject: RE: Great Tips


Near Intersection of I-35 & I-90 Southern Mn.
biggrntractor - 8/6/2014 12:57

Shouldn't be a problem, we get a 40 thru a 32' door.........Actually we back the combine in first and turn it perpendicular to the door and back the head in front of the combine and lift it off the cart and pull the cart out. We check the sickle to see if it registers but so far they always have.  



Thanks again. I hadn't thought of that approach. I should be able to do the same since my 30' door is offset so that should work for me. With my door, the drive end of the head will be by the big door so we could open it temporarily to get the sickles in and out if necessary. I would be even closer to my air compressor reel with that layout

I was thinking about driving in but then we would have to move the cart by hand and the long hitch might cause some issues. Your idea is much better.

Keep the suggestions coming.
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