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Southwest MN | Hey guys finally got a round baler bought on an auction and have been going through it and getting ready to try it out. Just wondering if any of you have any tips on baling with this baler. Also any particulars on the bale command plus.
Thank you all for your help. |
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| Make sure you get a good connection to the battery...you'll have neverending headaches if it's a smidge low on voltage.
Grease it up good before AND after you use it...it may be black magic, but I swear it makes a difference.
Make sure the knife that cuts the net is so sharp that you're scared of it.
Throttle up right before the net is cut.
Use the black net if you can find it.
Clean it up after you're done.
...from running a 664 don't know how similar a 644 is. |
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| You should have a good baler. I ran a 644 for 4 years and put about 7k bales thru it. Keep it greased and make sure you grease the stuffer which you have to get to by opening the tail gate and reaching down in behind the pickup. Its a bit of a bear to get to but it will make a difference on starting a bale. Grease it every time you go to the field. Take it easy when starting a bale, it'll act like its bunching up on ya but just gently put more hay in till it gets a bale started and rolling and then it'll eat all the hay you can give it! Also if you have trouble with your net wrap spreading all the way out check the rubber cover that the net wrap runs under on the way to the bale. If this is worn any at all it will make so your netwrap doesn't spread very good. Hope everything works out for ya! |
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mn | Was it possibly bought on Saturday in comfrey?????
No Need for black net wrap, the stuff is worthless. Also don't buy the Runnings junk. Get Some Pritchett brand wrap (I can get you a supplier name in this area). Make sure the rubber on the net brake is good. Do yourself a favor and unhook the bale shape sensors, they are worthless on those, just watch the belts to determine which side needs hay. Do not lube any of the net wrap linkage, make sure its all clean and dry. Take a look at the bars welded to the steel rollers inside, if the corners are rounded off, you will hate life trying to start a bale in grass especially if it was raked with a rollabar.
If you bought the one n comfrey I can give you some suggestions on it since I looked it over for a neighbor and have a lot of experience with those balers.
Edited by jtpfarm 7/14/2014 14:26
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Southwest MN | Yes Jeff. It is the same baler. Now how bad did I shoot myself in the foot with paying what I did? To me it looked like the belts had some life in them yet and the sledge gears had pretty good life in them for the bales that are on it. I appreciate anything you can give me for information.
Did do some stuff to it already got a bunch of pickup bands and teeth, already ordered a roll of prichett net. I did get a new knife for the net can you sharpen the blade on it or just replace it? And looking at the bars that are on the rollers look like they were round rod anyway or am I wrong? or do I need to look elsewhere?
Thanks
Bryce
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mn | I don't think you did too bad on it. The first thing I noticed is it does need all new chains. They are original judging by the fact they have factory paint on them and they are quite stretched out. Use American made chain and use Slip-plate chain lube.
There are a few hidden grease zerts on them so try to find an owners manual if you didn't get one.
The sledge gears are OK. I just looked at the idlers and there is quite a bit of wear to them. If you look at the side of the gear closest to the roller you can see what they look like when they are new. I just put them in one of my balers and it was around $1600 for the gears and bearings for both ends of the rollers.
If you break a splice on a belt switch to the Alligator splices. They are available at Miller-Sellner and the tool is about $150. The splices NH uses are crap.
My bars on my rollers are square (mine is a 664 tho) If it stars spitting hay up in front of the belts by the net knife it needs new bars on there. I just got some stock and welded it on. Also something I tried for the first time this year was putting bedliner on the dimpled rollers, works awesome! It works best to run the tractor wide open and feed it fast to get the bale started. The only time starting a bale is a problem is in road ditch hay that is all laying lengthways in the windrow.
The knife can be sharpened, ive never replaced one. Since changing to the Pritchett wrap I haven't touched my knife. The key is to make sure the rubber on the net brake is good and make sure the brake is only released when the duckbill is fully extended. Also make sure the knife drops freely. I put a chunk of iron on mine for weight. Mine will cut the wrap regardless of speed.
Hope this helps.
Don't get discouraged if you have problems. The first year or I had my first one it was a lot of problems. (it had a lot of bales on it) But now after learning how everything works and adjusting things right it works perfectly.
Hope this helps. |
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Southwest MN | I appreciate it Jeff already bought a box of chain These shouldn't be like chains on a small square where you need a certain # of links? I did make a few bales last night with it. Made a couple trips back to the shop with it too. Had a few small issues Alternator took a dump on tractor so had monitor trouble then wasn't able to get the knife to drop and cut the net not sure what is going on with that but haven't had enough time in the seat to get it figured out yet either. Any ideas on anything else would be greatly appreciated. I will say it makes a awesome little bale. |
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Southwest MN | I looked from inside and couldn't see a grease zerk for the stuffer so I crawled underneath on a creeper and still couldn't see a zerk for the stuffer any where in particular I should be looking. Thanks for your input thus far. |
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Southeast Kansas | I run a 654 and would like to know where the zerk for the stuffer is as well after reading this discussion. TIA |
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Southeast Kansas | I run a 654 and would like to know where the zerk for the stuffer is as well after reading this discussion. TIA |
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Operating tips for NH 644
