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SW Wisconsin | We are going to upgrade from stock tanks to a automatic waterer for around 30 beef cows and calves with the water split between two pens. Thinking about getting a Ritchie Omni 2 but have a question talked to two plumbers about installing it and one says we have to use the insulated thermal tubes and the other says to use a piece of 6 inch drainage tile or 16 inch pvc to save money. What is better? |
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Iowa | I know it's not an answer to your question, but have you looked into a Cobett? |
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MN | I would use the insulated tubes. I don't think installing a waterer is somewhere I'd try and save a few bucks. |
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New York Eastern Finger Lakes | We have 4 Jug Waterers. They are made in Minnesota. http://thejugwaterer.com/.
They are unique in that there the water stays down in the unit. The animals put their lips over a hole and suck up the water. Learning time is minimal. We have used the insulated ground tubes which are really two pieces of corrugated drain pipe with foam insulation in between. We use a concrete pad and make sure it is dead level under the waterer. The jug comes with a foam gasket to set under the unit. We have found that we can keep the heaters off until late December since ground heat comes up the insulated tube. There is also a thermostatically controlled heater in the unit.
We also use a underground shut off like you see in a city water supply that has a drain back when you shut it off. There is a tube that comes to the surface with a mushroom cap and a long wrench. We keep this valve out of cattle travel areas.
The Jug uses the exact same float system to control level that most toilets have called a Fluidmaster thus parts at most big box or local hardware.
We are in Northern NY where it gets quite cold. This year minus 24. In the six or seven years we have had them never had one freeze. Figure the folks in Minnesota understand cold weather. They are available in anywhere from one to four hole versions.
Somewhere along the way someone told us to pour a secondary pad on top of the concrete to which the waterer is bolted. Pad is about 2 foot 6 by a foot or so longer than the unit and about two inches high. Theory is that cow won't back up to defecate and we have never cleaned a unit.
Obviously we really like them. |
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Richland Center, Wi |
I would install it according to the recommendations of the manufacturer. You do not want the water line to freeze up if at all possible. Frozen water lines aren't any fun.
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western iowa,by Denison | the insulated tube by far-very little cost over a 25 year life-and helps from not freezing-
the best money spent is overspending on water line's-waters and then concrete-
if you take a $6000 dollar cost on a cadilac water installation over 6 years its $1,000 a year -on 50 head its $20 a head a year
your insulated tube would be maybe $100-$200 total-on 6 years its only $33 a year or less then 60cents per head for 6 years
Buy the insulated tube!Ask the plumber if you can make sure he makes it long enough |
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sullivan il. | I have 7 Ritchie Omni in use I would definitely use the frost tubes also get a 12" plastic culvert and cut a foot off of it and extend the frost tube also makes it eaiser to notch out for the water line coming in. As you know this winter was terrible none of my ritchies froze up did have a couple balls froze on a few mornings but that was at the -15 and colder temps
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NW MN | Don't go cheap! We had a frozen line between the house and barn. Not fun dragging a hose out of the basement when its -30. Still has not thawed... |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | No question about it - use 2 insulated thermal tubes. In SW WI I use (2) 30" insulated heat tubes on top of a 2 ft section of 12" regular drainage tile for 7 ft total to the top of the raised concrete. Also get the waterlines deep enough and for insurance, wrap a thermostatically controlled heat tape secured with good electrical tape around the vertical waterline coming up, put some foam type pipe insulation around the vertical and heat tape with the thermostat on the waterline just above your shutoff valve, secure the foam insulation with good electrical tape or good cable ties. You only get one chance to install a waterer correctly. This costs maybe $25 to do at installation but can make a world of difference when it's -30 F in January! If this is your first waterer, remember do NOT backfill the insulated nor drain tile tubes. Here is a picture of a recent SW WI installation I did for a pasture waterer, fyi. The 7 ft goes down from the top of the concrete. At installation of the waterer I electrical taped the orange thermostat to the waterline just above the shutoff valve and wrapped up to the thermostat (but not over it) with more pipe insulation. Do it right the first time! Good luck Jim
Edited by Jim 4/30/2014 15:24
 (IMG_1926_waterer installation prep for Mirafount w insulated tubes andfoot shutoff.jpg)
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 IMG_1926_waterer installation prep for Mirafount w insulated tubes andfoot shutoff.jpg (117KB - 314 downloads)
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vail, ia | jug by far, and my next one I will stack 2 insulated tubes in the hole, made it thru last winter without any electricity to my waters |
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western iowa,by Denison | +bohlman waters here-but I like the electric with overflow option-I'm kinda strange that way-I want a open top water-that 10 head can gather around-and can see water level from tractor seat |
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Driftless SW Wisconsin | Gary, where/how do you run your overflow? Where does it go? Jim |
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Mosinee Wi | I thought I would save money by using a drain tile nothing but freeze ups in the winter. Tore them out and put in insulated tubes. Also when pouring the pad we put two 4x8 high density 2 inch thick insulation under the cement |
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Cattle Waterer?
