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Southeast Iowa | I'm looking at a 1977 Ford 8700 for $14,900. Anythings to look for on that tractor? Any major downfalls they had? |
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SW IA | Check rear wheels. The early 8700s had U bolt clamps like the 8600s that were prone to break and work loose. Later ones had wedge type that were better. Other than that not much difference that a TW 10. Price seems a little on the high side but if its clean and good tires that could make up the difference. |
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Northeast Ohio | I had a 8600 and the block was cracked behind the fuel filters, mechanic said they were prone to that. I ran it quite awhile like that, it was just a slow seep. Started to leak more so I had a guy weld it, that took care of it. |
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53916 | So common I've never heard of it. Have had Fords here since 1975 (before I was born). '68 8000, '71 8000, '74 8600, '77 9700, '81 TW30. |
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| they seem lazey without turbo to me.id go 9700 ortw20.25 |
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Texas | +1. Go with a 9700. |
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53916 | Yes, that was low hour 9700 money 25 years ago..... |
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Rawson, Ohio | Like the others have said go with a 9700 or TW20, you can find a clean one for that kind of money. |
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Interlake, Manitoba | Have operated one for 36 years; Been a good tractor, although initially there were some 'bugs' that warranty covered.
Couple things;
1) As mentioned above, U-bolts on rear wheel can make for some 'play' (mine has on left wheel, have not fixed yet)
2) Keep coolant up-to-date; Prone to cavitation. (replaced block at approx 15,000 hours)
3) When changing engine oil, remember that oil in fuel pump also requires changing.
No problems with tranny, although gone thru 2-3 clutch's.
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Northeast Ohio | Thats what the ford dealership and a ford mechanic told me. Mine was cracked so I figured it was true. |
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Ford 8700
