AgTalk Home | ||
| ||
Jd 9600 feeder house/ rasp bar come apart (pics) Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forums List -> Machinery Talk | Message format |
ncjd4440 |
| ||
Pleasant garden nc | Broke my feeder house chain finishing up wheat. Called it quits and parked the combine. Figured i would change the rasp bars and put a new feeder house chain on. Got it apart today and was shocked at what I found. Going to be going a lot deeper into the combine then I thought. It looks like a sucked a few bowling balls through it. Feeder house chain slat wrapped around the cylinder Wore out top shaft feeder house sprockets Bent and busted rasp bars Slat that was around cylinder I don't know what you call the piece that holds the rasp bars on but you can see where this one has a bend in it. What would you all do Check out how strait these rasp bars are!!! I dunno what all is going to be placed yet. I do know. Feeder house chain and slats Rasp bars Shoe auger bearings. Feeder house top shaft/bearings/sprockets. Check the concave and if not replaced at least re zero it. Never been into one this far so tell me what to change and not miss! Where would you get all this stuff from. I already have the new rasp bars. After market or from Deere? If after market from where? Edit: I said sieve but meant concave Edited by ncjd4440 8/14/2013 18:37 | ||
Hay Hud Ohio |
| ||
SW Ohio | Ouch Ouch ouch!!! Are any of the cylinder spiders bent? I maybe would have tried to straighten them some before taking off the old bars. On our 7720 one of the spiders broke the weld to the hub and it got rewelded but is clocked about 3/8" off time, been through two sets of bars like that with no ill effects except hard to bolt the new ones in. Check the concave over well and the mounts too, good time to fix any of that, Look down inside the feeder house sides to see if the inner frame is cracking and/or the floor is wearing out. | ||
flyboytoo |
| ||
ec. nebr. | Check the two front concave pins, the cast oval adjusters too!! & look where they go thru side of machine, that holes can be wore. I've welded a narrowed up lock coller as a bushing on the outsides to keep it up where it belongs. It also keeps your gears better engaged on the concave adjuster screw. Edited by flyboytoo 8/14/2013 18:48 | ||
keving |
| ||
Michigan | Your concaves are junk,I can tell by one of the pics. Lots of good aftermarket places for parts,if your gonna keep the machine for awhile get Trimpe rasp bars,they are worth the extra money Edit:oops I see you have bars already Edited by keving 8/14/2013 19:51 | ||
6farms |
| ||
southern Ill | We done same thing about 5 yrs ago on9500 make sure shaft that holds spider on is not bent. It didn't look bent in combine, but we took out to make sure and it was bent. Good luck not fun job. | ||
BHTN |
| ||
West Tennessee | keving - 8/14/2013 18:49 Your concaves are junk,I can tell by one of the pics. Lots of good aftermarket places for parts,if your gonna keep the machine for awhile get Trimpe rasp bars,they are worth the extra money Edit:oops I see you have bars already It appears keving maybe right about the worn out concave. Now is the time to change that. We put a St Johns welding in ours last year and our feederhouse has to come off this year so I'll get a good look at how it looks after 300 hours. I would check prices at Shoup and Sloan Express or the major salvage yards (if you have any close) on all of that. Sorry about your bad luck on the chain. I always heard they could do that and make a mess. Ours broke last year and my partner got it stopped quick and just bent up a few chain pieces where it was holding by one chain. It appears we really got lucky. On a side note...our chain breaking was my stupid mistake. New chain last year and they didn't send any little s hook things with it and I used cotter keys. When we took apart the broken chain they were all worn down to nothing. To anyone that "might" be tempted to put one together with cotter keys......DON'T. Hope you get yours fixed up quick. | ||
SDFarmboy |
| ||
It looks total destruction of a combine, and the pics show the evidence. The post comes off as a joke, I cannot imagine the intention of this post. | |||
BHTN |
| ||
West Tennessee | SDFarmboy - 8/14/2013 19:07 It looks total destruction of a combine, and the pics show the evidence. The post comes off as a joke, I cannot imagine the intention of this post. ? | ||
ncjd4440 |
| ||
Pleasant garden nc | How can you tell the concave is done? I was custom cutting some wheat/Johnson grass and thought it was plugged and didn't shut her down fast enough. Stuff happens! | ||
Andover |
| ||
Guelph, Ontario | What does the Beater and Beater Grate look like? | ||
ncjd4440 |
| ||
Pleasant garden nc | The beater has a few bends in it to match the rasp bars | ||
funfarmr |
| ||
Ohio | SDFarmboy - 8/14/2013 20:07 It looks total destruction of a combine, and the pics show the evidence. The post comes off as a joke, I cannot imagine the intention of this post. Mods when is this worthless soul going to get the boot? | ||
ayrporte |
| ||
Eastern Ont | Dont envy your problems But Call me the prick if you want I take it the preseason check didnt catch the worn out feeder drive sprockets? I know hind sight is 20/20. but this could have been avoided | ||
agpreacher |
| ||
KS | Now would be a good time to change out bearings on the cylinder shaft while it is all stripped down. With the shaft out, you can check it for straightness. You may need a new spider for the real bent one. I want all these parts to be good and true so there is no chance of vibration. Edited by agpreacher 8/14/2013 23:40 | ||
dvswia |
| ||
sw corner ia. | since it is all pretty much destroyed, use this opportunity to your advantage.. replace the cylinder and beater with precision's solid ones, and put in a st. john's welding concave. the feeder house is pretty easy to figure out. you might or might not need new adjuster cams. | ||
BHTN |
| ||
West Tennessee | ncjd4440 - 8/14/2013 20:20 How can you tell the concave is done? I was custom cutting some wheat/Johnson grass and thought it was plugged and didn't shut her down fast enough. Stuff happens! Yep stuff happens. I told my story above. In the picture with the hammer laying in front of the concave you can see the rounded edges on the concave cross bars. Not a sure sign it's time for replacement but an indicator. To see if you need to replace it lay a straight edge (or pull a string) across it and see how much wear there really is. You'll be really happy with how it performs with the concave and bars both new. Just measure the concave wear and check and see and then you'll know. Edited by BHTN 8/15/2013 06:07 | ||
scott nelsen |
| ||
Leeds, North Dakota | Chris, I agree with other posts, pull cylinder assy out, replace spider, look for cracks, replace concave, beater is a lot easier to work on from front, Scott. | ||
ncjd4440 |
| ||
Pleasant garden nc | Looking at feeder house chains from shoup and sloans. Would you get the closed space or wide spaced slats. Which one is better? Wheat beams and corn | ||
BHTN |
| ||
West Tennessee | ncjd4440 - 8/15/2013 15:36 Looking at feeder house chains from shoup and sloans. Would you get the closed space or wide spaced slats. Which one is better? Wheat beams and corn We put the wide spaced one in 2 years ago. I "think" we counted the slats on the one we had and ordered the same thing. We run those same crops and as far as I know it's fine. | ||
Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] |
Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
(Delete cookies) | |