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Lac qui Parle County Minnesota | I have a early '80's TW25. First tractor I bought on my own 20+ years ago. She's been a great tractor and has never let me down. My Dad put many hours field cultivating and chisel plowing with her and now she's tired and semi retired. I use her on the augers a little and on the snowblower. I would like to dress her up again, but still use her for lighter duty of spraying, maybe a little cart work and still on the snow blower.
So I'm looking at options for the engine. So what's a good way to go?
I know Bern has talked about putting in thicker sleeves and boring them out to original. Who makes sleeves like that and any idea on cost. Do they come in an engine kit that way? What's the going rate for machining work?
I know a lot of guys have bashed remanufactured engines but I noticed that New Holland now offers 2 year warrantees on their remans. Is that an option that I would be happy with?
I'm not set up right now to do the overhauling myself and I would like to get her going before fall.
I know guys will say send her down the road, but there's a lot of sentimental value and I at least know what I got.
Open to any and all ideas and advice. |
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Phillips Co NW Kansas | Warranties are as good as the paper their wrote on. I put a reman engine in myy pickup that offered a 3yr unlimited mile warranty. After reading the book on causes for failure I can see why they off what they do. Me personally I would find a way to overhaul myself but im picky about how things are done & don't trust many peiple.
If I was in your shoes I would keep her. Like you said sentimental value. |
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arthur , ontario | As a fella with more experiences in 401 engine adventures then I care to admit to? I recommend having it rebuilt at a local shop you can work with? you could partially dismantle the engine yourself, remove head,front cover and timing gear train, pan and pump,oiler cooler housing,etc. or let them do it all? the repair liners are quite common and the shop should be familiar with that procedure? I would replace all valves in head and pay close attention to springs and retainers, replace oil pump,as older ones can have idler problems? check front bearing plate behind cam gear.may as well have the inject pump and injectors gone over while you are at it! I know this sounds a bit much? but any one of these parts can spell disaster! Last fall checked the NH reman idea and was told core is any where from 200 to 2000? their choice? |
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Pulaski, TN | I would rebuild the one you have. I have a 9600 and 8000 that have had motor rebuilds in both. The 9600 was done in 1978 and the 8000 in 1996(?). Neither do the hard work anymore but are nice to have around. Both motors were bored and not sleeved. |
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Dills, FL | just recently built my 1989 tw35. engine had 12K hrs and what started as a dampener replacement just keep going deeper and deeper lol. camshaft lobes were pitting on the lobes so went with a new cam and followers. only to find out the new aftermarket cam had NO SIDE TO SIDE TAPER ON THE LOBES to facilitate follower ROTATION. So had to spend a few hours with a dremel and handstone to put some taper in lol. I would build it. |
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| I've been told by a local machine shop who does these, that the cost of over-size pistons from Ford is astronomical !!! So, they can bore the block, press in a repair sleeve and bore it back to standard size and then buy new standard size pistons from Ford which are affordable. This repair process costs less, they say. |
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Leeds, North Dakota | Bruce, take it to someone you trust to disassemble/reassemble that is familiar with your engine, find a machine shop you trust, as others have posted, gonna due it right rebuild it properly, Scott. |
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| You always, always, ALWAYS bore a Ford block and sleeve it back to standard. The reason is so that you control any potential problems with cylinder wall cavitation. Oversize pistons are more or less a thing from history in terms of NH parts. I suspect the sleeving issue is the main reason.
Basically any reputable machine shop can bore and sleeve it with their sleeves... the finish the sleeve to spec. Wether you do that or go with a reman... is your call. I don't think you'd have any issues with a NH reman. The core charge would reflect what's left of your old one. You can obviously appreciate that if the block is cavitated in an area that is not repairable then they're not going to give you credit on the block...
Personally I'd build up the engine you have rather than go with a reman... but that's just me. Not that I'd be scared of the reman. Only the cost...
Rod |
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Mount Vernon, WA | My local machine shop uses thick wall sleeves and then bores them back to standard size. The reason we don't use the thin wall sleeves is because they can distort after being pressed in place. The thin wall sleeves are designed to be at the finished size once pressed in place, whereas the thick wall sleeves are designed to be finish bored after installation. Call Tim at 360-336-9722 if you want info on the thick wall sleeves.
Other than the sleeve issue, pay REALLY close attention to the oil pump, more specifically the relief valve and the idler gear. If either need attention, replace the pump. I would order the smaller pump for a TW5, as the original pumps are way too big, which is why the relief valves gave trouble in the first place.
As for reman vs rebuilding it yourself, that would depend of course on the condition of your existing parts. The OEM pistons were pretty tough, and it is entirely possible that they could be reused. The cam and lifters would need to be checked closely as well. If the majority of the internals are still in good shape, you would be money ahead to rebuild it yourself. |
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Leeds, North Dakota | http://www.agkits.com/ check with these folks good quality parts, Scott. |
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Lac qui Parle County Minnesota | Thanks Bern, Scott and all the other resident experts. Your advice is very much appreciated.
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| How much $$ ballpark do you think a major overhaul of a turbo 401 would cost, including machine work and mechanic cost. |
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Reman, rebuilt, overhaul...Ford 401
