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Amherst WI | I am currently running a Kinze 2200 planter for corn. It does an outstanding job planting and I really like everything Kinze about it. However the stuff I put on it to no-till with have cuased lots of headaches.
When I first got it, it had Yetter Combos on it. We need starter up here in the great white north so I got some Yetter TOW openers for it. This setup worked okay and the TOW openers worked okay but I hated the brackets on them. I'm not a small guy and without doing "the dip" to get inbetween the row units with it up in the air I wouldn't fit. On the ground I always banged my knees into them, at least once a day.
The combos worked pretty well but in normal Yetter fashsion the bearings didn't last long on the coulters, and servicing the trash wheels where a complete PIA.
I tore all that off and put Martin C125 floating row cleaners and UMO-100 openers on this spring. ***Beating dead horse alert*** They have not worked anywhere close to my expectations. They plow in soft dirt, the wrap in stalks and even pushed in 13 bushel no-till bean stubble which out of any place I would have thought they would have worked. They will "bounce" over trash and then the UMO will push it. The smooth hose barbs on the UMO's are a real treat with hoses coming off every 80 acres or so even with tight hose clamps on it.
I have come to realize that with starter being a nessesity my planter is not the way to go. What are your setups and what do you recomend for a no-till planter? I do work some ground but I try to no-till all my dryland acres so I need something that will work any where.
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Dodge County, WI | I am not advocating a Case planter, that is just what we have. But on our Case 1200, the fertilizer opener is in front of the row cleaners. We have the 1360 martin row cleaners. With this setup I never have trouble with the row cleaner wrapping with anything other than bale twine. It never bounces over much of anything. I never understood the coulter behind the cleaner. If you get the residue cut before the cleaner, it goes right through it, no matter what.
The only drawback is my planter gets splatter on it. I am thinking it is because I have streamer nozzles on the ends of the applicator nozzle. Maybe If I put orifices in and then I could have a larger hole at the end with less pressure, eliminating the splatter. Next year, maybe.
Bottom line, maybe stick with the cleaners, and find some way of putting starter on before the row unit. JD fertilizer opener?
Ben |
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northwest Indiana | How much are you putting on? If your rate is low enough have you considered totally tubular or seed firmer application? I know that limits you to 5 - 6 gallons per acre, but it does work. Not ideal, but it works. |
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Grabill, Indiana | We run a pin adjust Martin 13" row cleaner and a Yetter coulter knife for 2x2 starter. We did not have any problems with wrapping or pushing this spring. |
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Arva, Ontario | The heck of it is spending +$500/row to have something that doesn't work to your expectations, or worse doesn't work at all.
Like you, we have a Kinze Econofold. It is light and simple.
We plant into fall made strips with all of our P&K down, or no-till into soybean stubble. We also do a fair bit of custom work in everything from no-till to "beat to a fine dust".
In most of our work, we are simply putting down 30-40 lbs (10-13 gal) of UAN. This is done with tubes that drop it behind the closing wheel - sourced from L&D Ag. If a customer wants some P banded, we will blend 10-34-0 with the UAN, adjust the rate and still drop it out behind the closing system @ 15-18 gal). We LOVE this system. NO COULTER! No fert getting on row cleaners, gauge wheels or closing system, and research suggests that it delivers the same yield response as a 2x0 or 2x2 placement.
As for the rest of the planter - Martin pin adjust faceplate row cleaners, Keetons w/ Mojo wires, 2 Dawn curvetines.
Simple, light, and gets the job done.
Ken |
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Amherst WI | I should add a few things.
I'm not a fan of pop-ups in our light soils. You can go from doing it some good to smoking it pretty easily and sometimes the difference is just weather.
I also wish the "dribbling it out the back" would work "here". UW has done reaserch saying it doesn't work. However K-State has done reasearch saying it does work. I'm going to go along with the UW on this one. I don't put P on any other way than with the planter (usually). Our P is off the charts and most of it is tied up with iron and calcium so 2x2 (or close to it) seems to be the best choice. I was going to do my own strips this year but didn't want to take the time with the way the year turned out.
ANDDDDDD
JD Coulters won't fit. I tried that already.
Edited by hinfarm 5/28/2013 10:36
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swohio | Dribble on top of ground with 10 gal of 28, 5 gal of 10-34-0, and some other micro's. This second year with setup, and don't ever see reason to go back to coulters. I'm is swOhio. Notill with worked ground once in a while. Dribbled on behind presswheel of IH 900 RHF. No way to put coulters on this planter, so went this way. NO MESS on planter! |
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Embarrass WI | On the JD 1780 I had before, there were JD single disc fert openers and I put down as much as 25-30 gpa with no trouble. I would blend 20 gals 28% with the starter. The JD openers were always a pain to keep working like they are supposed to, but when they worked they worked really well. Then I had just row cleaners on the unit.
I have Totally Tubulars for in-furrow app on my 3600, last year I had seedling damage on the sand so this year I planted the sand w/no popup. I'll see how it works...at least I have all my plants.
There is a contingent of folks who contend that if you took the money you spend on starter fert and spent that on more broadcast your results would be very similar. I am not sure I disagree. UW strongly pushes starter...I'm not sure why. It would be interesting to look at their research again, what the soil fertility levels were and soil temps at planting. When was the last time they did a trial? |
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Amherst WI | I did a trial last year on starter and no starter and there was a 10bu difference. Suprisingly the moisture was exactly the same. The field was high fertility and should have not had a response "according to the books".
I would like to seem them do a trial in Marshfield and Hancock since that is more like "here". The research I mentioned was from Arlington which is far enough south that stater shouldn't have had a response as far as I am concerned.
Just about everyone "here" uses stater. While I think there are some practices that just don't make sense that many do, I don't think this is one of them since the amount of time and hassels it makes has to make it worth it.
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Starter_Fert_Comp.pdf (353KB - 1441 downloads)
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Sunnyside, WA | I agree on the L&D Ag tubes behind the closing wheels. Picture is near the bottom of the page:
http://ld-ag.com/mcomp.htm
Besides that, I just use Dawn fixed screw adjust row cleaners, heavy duty adjustable down pressure springs, some weights on the toolbar since I am on 22" rows, and Keeton seed firmers.
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Martinsville, Ohio | Your picture is dark but there is no way floating Martins should cut that deep, looks like plowing for sure! Have you talked to Martin and Company? Maybe swap for the flat plate pin adjust row cleaners?
Maybe you don't even need row cleaners, I don't know.
I do prefer their pin adjust floating wheels just to sweep the residue away.
I know IQH and sj3788 run the Martin system pretty much as advertized in all kinds of conditions and do a good job.
You've really got me puzzled. Wish I was closer.
Good luck, Matt.
Ed |
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NC IA | I am sold on the Case/IH row unit for no-tilling. I have pin-adjust Yetter row cleaners, I'm not saying they are the best, but they work well for me. No riding over trash. I would love to have air or hydraulic adjustable down-pressure on my row units, I think that would be an awesome feature in no-till. I do not put on any form of starter or fertilizer with my planter so I have no advice there. |
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Between Omaha and Des Moines, 7 miles South of I80 | .
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| Having just setup a new no-till planter (3rd no-till setup in a row) for the last two years. I'll give you what i would prefer if I could afford and had the patience to do it again and what i have that works/doesn't.
What I have: JD 7200 Conservation 16R30
Overall planter is good, frame is designed kind of funky but it works and its heavy enough..no bulk fill is becoming an issue..we split planter over most of our acres and order seed by the field....still haven't mastered splitting the bags evenly into the boxes and then the clutches and variable rate screw it up more
Yetter 2967-029 Row Cleaners ..."SharkTooth", short frames, originally had the normal depth bands on it..swapped them out this year for the Precision 3" version. For the most part love the row cleaners...they do a super job in pretty much any residue (even untouched COC)....a tad too aggressive in worked ground so we added the "Clean Sweep" product from Precision...they are now the real deal...I can lift them up and set the pressure on them, with the bigger depth bands i can put more down pressure on to clean heavy residue and still not dig(couldnt' do that with the narrow bands) They probably should say some where that they have absolutely no grease in them from the factory, didn't discover this until year two.
John Deere Single Disk Openers with Moeller knives for my high rate blended N product...first year for these after dribbling it out the back of the planter in the past. So far...no plugs in any conditions. From what I understand they do need some TLC in the off season..but the guy I got them from is kind of a single disk guru so i'll be alright. Wish i could lock them up out of the way when not needed or working on the planter...thats really my only complaint.
Run my pop-up through the Exapta Valion Seed Tube Guard...after wearing out seed tube guards in less than 300 acres last year these where a must. So far no wear and they seem to do a better job helping to form the V. Being able to run fertilizer with them is an added bonus. I ran it through keetons last year but wore them out in no till and replaced them with the thicker tails this year instead of the low profile ones. So far the keetons are holding up and no issues with buildup on them. And no pinched lines on the keetons. I added the Mojo Wires to mine from Exapta and have been very happy.
Two spiked martin closing wheels with a drag chain...have used this exact setup for years. However this year has exposed the weakness in them. They just do not do a very good job in wet soil. I get a slab of rectangular soil along the vee on occasion and they don't close well. Drag chains are definitely a must with these as it helps to cover it up and mitigate the problem some. They have worked well for years but as we are trying to cover more ground and have really varying conditions even in a good year...i'm on the hunt for something new. Perhaps Schagels or something similar. Will likely run the chain so long as i can.
Two John Blue NGP pumps with HYD drive, hyd drive seed, esets and PP Air Force (uplift and downpressure), single row shut offs, 20/20 monitos
What I Would Do If I Could Afford it(and wanted to go through the process of starting over)
Case IH 1250 Planter with bulk fill, ordered with a mechanical transmission (just in case)
Row Cleaners...same as above, really like the setup
Fert Openers...same as above..would likely try the CIH version just for ease but wouldn't hesitate to go back to the JDs if they don't work
Pop-up...no seed tube guard on a red planter but would likely run it behind the firming point in pretty much the same position
Closing system I would likely leave intact from the factory as my friends with red planters seem to be able to close the trench nicely in pretty much any condition and I do a lot of walking to check, i may replace the clsoing disks with the spiked martin version
Would add hyd drive, Air Force or Delta Force, single row shutoff and same fertilizer pump system, swap CNH meters out for vSets
Edited by bigswede 5/28/2013 22:34
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Best no-till corn planter setup
