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Square vs. rectangle? Tube bridge physics.Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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| Old Pokey |
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Say you're going to make a bridge. You can choose between a square tube or a rectangle tube for the frame. Using just arbitrary numbers for easy figuring, use a 12"x12" square, and a 8"x12" rectangle on edge. Same wall thickness. Both tubes have the same vertical measure, but the rectangle would have the vertical sides closer together than the square. Which would carry more net weight in the center of the bridge? Using the I beam designs, I feel the rectangle would carry more net. Am I right or wrong? What do I need to type into google to find more answers? | |||
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| exit |
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Athens, Ga | Section modulus or Area moment of inertia is what you need to look up. Or mass moment of inertia. The 12x12 will hold more. I-beams strength is in the flanges, and the 12x12 will have more flange than the 8x12. Or at least that's what they taught me back in engineering school. I can do the numbers tomorrow. Edited by exit 2/23/2013 00:18 | ||
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| dgrimmius |
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Brandon, SD | http://www.steeltubeinstitute.org/hss_literature.htm | ||
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| paul the original |
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southern MN | He's talking tube, not I beam, so he is figuring the vertical walls hold the same, while the horizontal walls are just spacers. Since the skinny tube weighs less, the bridge could carry more. But you are saying the strength comes from the horizontal sufaces stretch/compress, the vertical is just the spacer. On an I beam. Donno if tubes and I beams act the same, or different? Twocompeting theories here....... --->Paul | ||
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| Alberta Farmer |
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West Central Alberta Coldest, wettest edge | The distance between the top and bottom plates will gain you the most( by memory, I think the distance relationship is squared,whereas increases in area have no multiplier, 1 to 1), but since you are keeping that constant, and only increasing the width, you will still get more strength from the 12" wide. It will take 1.5 times more effort to stretch the bottom flange, and 1.5 times more effort to compress the top flange, due to the increased area over the 8". Which is exactly what Exit is referring to regarding mass moment of inertia. Edited by Alberta Farmer 2/23/2013 01:00 (area_moment_of_inertia_I_beam_example.jpg) Attachments ---------------- area_moment_of_inertia_I_beam_example.jpg (70KB - 915 downloads) | ||
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| Alberta Farmer |
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West Central Alberta Coldest, wettest edge | Tubes and I beams act exactly the same. The web, or walls are just there to connect the top and bottom plates, by the moment of inertia formula below, you will find that nearly all of the strength comes from the top and bottom plates, due to their mass being most distant from the center point due to the distance squared term in the formula. I beam just connects the two plates in a more efficient manner. If the tubing has walls half as thick as the single web in the I beam, the capacity would be identical in the vertical direction, not in the horizontal though. Edited by Alberta Farmer 2/23/2013 01:47 | ||
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| ag4life |
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Southern Illinois | Now i wish the neck on my gooseneck was i beam instead of deeper channelled | ||
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| Yoosta B |
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| Alberta Farmer- This is very interesting! But I have a further question: You state that, "Tubes and I beams act exactly the same..." and I can understand and accept that (not here to argue with your education!), but I wonder what happens at failure? Wouldn't the I section flanges deflect (at their edges) more readily, allowing the beam to deflect out of the plane of loading, whereas the tube's 'dual webs' would keep the top and bottom flanges from deflecting? Maybe I'm being pedantic, but it would seem that, all things being equal (I-beam flanges same as tube; I-beam web twice the tube wall thickness), the tube would be more stable up to and through failure. What's the reality? TIA. | |||
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| billw |
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E. Kansas | In addition to the explanations above by Alberta Farmer and exit, you might read about the definition of "neutral axis". It is a rather simple concept but must be understood when learning about loading of beams/etc. Moment of inertia needs to be understood as well. For example, a given I beam could be loaded on the top of the flange, or it could have the same load applied to the side of the flanges (50% load to each flange side, for simplicity). In each case, there is a neutral axis, and it is across a totally different part of the I beam. For flange loading on the top, the neutral axis is in the I beam web, which is the x-axis in Alberta Farmer's I beam chart. If loaded on the sides, the neutral axis would be through both flanges and the web, which is the y-axis in the chart. Because of the moments of inertia of the I beam material from a neutral axis, the given I beam will hold more when loaded on the top of the flange than on the sides of the flange. The neutral axis, moments of inertia, etc. concepts apply to other shapes as well (such as tubing), as well as to non-symmetrical shapes. Those concepts also apply when analyzing more complicated loading (uneven/multi-directional load application, torsional loading, etc and combinations of them). For your question about the square or rectangular tubing with the loading described, the square tubing will have higher load capacity. Edited by billw 2/23/2013 04:07 | ||
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| towman2000 |
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SouthCentral WI | All I know is that the tube always rots out faster in road salt than a channel iron or a I beam, but that's not what you asked. Just sayin with that same smile Towman | ||
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| JK SCLA |
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| You can still figure your section modulus with the tube. Deflection can be a big issue with any, especially the tubing. However, the square will have less deflection. Now, an important consideration is how heavy walled will the tube be vs using a beam. Looking at this as a farmer, yep, tubing is neat, easy to work with, so on. 40' x 12" x 34# wf beam is $844. Just bought some. Price the tubing. You can get more out of a beam than the tube as far as strength per pc/cost. | |||
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| Old Pokey |
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Wow, I did'nt expect that kind of effort. I hope you did'nt go to too aweful much trouble. But thanks for that. Here's an old thread that many helped educate me on. Gearld J. also brought in the moment of inertia which is way over my head. Thanks a bunch for taking the time to put this info up. | |||
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| Old Pokey |
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I was following your theory Paul. That's exactly how I was looking at it. But the problem is, I dont do a very good job of explaining my questions. In a pure one direction loading, the I beam must be stronger as there is math to back it up. But you know how it is in the land of farming,......there is no perfect loading. I'm really trying to figure out whether to use square or rectangle tube for a hitch on the back of a chisel plow. Not as large as the size I put up, but there would be side loads and all that other unforseen stress that gets put on it in the field. | |||
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| exit |
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Athens, Ga | By acting the same, he was saying that the vertical walls are there merely to support the load carring horizontal wall. Their buckling at failure will be very different. | ||
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| exit |
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Athens, Ga | Old pokey, it's not really a hard concept to understand. If you were standing next to me, I could make you understand in under one minute. Ill so a drawing here in few mins and see if I can attach it to help. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Pokey, Most of what the others posted is spot on, except for Paul's first paragraph, which is...well...just wrong (sorry, Paul). If you want to calculate the I value for a tube, just run the b*h*h*h/12 number for the outside dimensions of the tube, then do the same calculation for the inside dimensions, and subtract the inside from the outside value. So, to your example: If we assume a 3/8 inch wall thickness, the answer to your question is For the 12x12x3/8 tube, I = (12x12x12x12/12) - (11.25x11.25x11.25x11.25/12) = 393in^4 For the 8x12x3/8 tube, I = (8x12x12x12/12) - (7.25x11.25x11.25x11.25/12) = 292in^4 So the 8x12 tube is about 3/4 as strong in bending as the 12x12. This calculation procedure assumes sharp corners, so the book values for actual tubes with rounded corners will likely be a little less. If the statement that "all the strength comes from the flanges" were totally true, the 8x12 would only be 2/3 as strong as the 12x12. So the webs DO contribute a little bending strength (but not a lot). There are a bazillion ways to mess up strength calculations, and one of the big areas of uncertainty is that we seldom really know the actual load that will be applied to the structure. Anyone who has ever cut a corner a little too short and run a folded chisel plow or planter off of a culvert can appreciate a little good, old fashioned over-design. Not that I've ever done that. :-) FWIW MDS | ||
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| Old Pokey |
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Ya know what scares me most about what you just typed? I think I actually understand it somewhat. Your explanation is put in a way that it makes some sense. I see now that you wrote it out, how the wall thinckness can be calculated. I still dont know, and probably thats a good thing, what the moment of inertia is to a tube. But I dont really have a lot of use for knowing much about that so........ But one part I dont get on 8x12, is that it seems like the formula is for the rectangle tube laying flat instead of 12" tall and 8" wide. ? Is that right? Thanks a bunch for that, and taking the time to explain it to me. That really does help a lot. | |||
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| exit |
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Athens, Ga | He did 12 as the height and 8 as base. He did it the way you wanted. Section modulus or area moment of inertia just allows you to orient objects to maximize load it can carry. Do more with less, is what my teacher always told us. Edited by exit 2/23/2013 09:34 | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Pokey, Yep, I gave you the I value for the 8x12 on edge, which would be the strong way for a bridge beam. If you lay the 8x12 flat, the I value becomes: I = (12x8x8x8/12) - (11.25x7.25x7.25x7.25/12) = 155in^4 I've often thought there would be a market for a condensed version of a strength of materials textbook for farmers. I just dunno what parts to condense, and the liability behind such a book could be serious. Mark's ME handbook, a Machinery's Handbook, or a Bosch Automotive Handbook might be a good investment. My favorite, in terms of packing an incredible amount of information into a small package, is the Bosch Handbook. And..."I think I actually understand it somewhat" is about all I was ever able to achieve with my students in my former life. So don't feel bad. :-) FWIW MDS | ||
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| ChrisTN |
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Ethridge, TN | You proposed a very interesting question, and I have enjoyed reading the answers, as I also build quite a few things here around the farm. Sometimes these projects are necessity, and sometimes for the pure enjoyment of using something that "I" built. Now, since you further expanded what you are wanting to do, or purpose of the project, most rear hitches I've ever built have used rectangular tube, and even for a front hitch, thinking of a trailer project I just finished. Standing the vertical tube up, to get the most vertical loading out of it, but also in this situation, a channel iron gusset/brace, will reinforce the horizontal, or side to side loading. To use strictly a rectangular tube, or even a square tube, what you would need to decide, is which way the most force will be exerted on the tubing. If you have equal forces, both directions, then it's simply figure the strength needed, and a square box tube. If the forces are unequal, then using a rectangular tube becomes more prevalent, with focusing it's direction of use based on the forces applied. Simple.......... no, cause with farm equipment, we sometimes get that third element, and that is what I'll just call twist or maybe better stated as rotation of the plains. With what we put it thru, the force we apply, doesn't always stay in a vertical/horizontal plain, to the actual structure itself........ if that makes sense?????? Edited by ChrisTN 2/23/2013 10:19 | ||
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| ChrisTN |
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Ethridge, TN | Not necessarily........ as there are more forces being applied in differing directions on your gooseneck hitch. It's not all in a vertical or horizontal plain, as the plains can rotate to some extent as you cross an uneven terrain. Also the forces can vary to an extent as to how much weight you have on the trailer, how that weight is positioned on the trailer, plus how much of a degree of angle you might be trying to turn it, vs. your axle spread, or how deep the mud is, steep the grade is.........ect........ | ||
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| Alberta Farmer |
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West Central Alberta Coldest, wettest edge | In a real life failure, I really don't know, you may be right, but by the book, if the flanges are the same thickness, and the total beb thickness is the same, they carry the same load. But that is all in static equilibrium, make it a dynamic load, and adds some stresses in other directions, including twisting, and the calculations don't fit onto nice neat diagrams like posted. | ||
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| Alberta Farmer |
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West Central Alberta Coldest, wettest edge | Yes, Crowbar, thank you for pointing out that some strength comes from the web itself, especially when you consider the h cubed terms contribution, just trying to simplify things, since the original question was keeping the vertical distance constant, and just increasing the width. With structural steel, with thick webs, there is a significant contibution due to the web, but in many other materials or combinations, where weight savings is a concern, the webs are made as thin or light as possible letting the flanges take most of the load. I'm picturing an engineered floor truss with 1.5 inch thick flanges and 3/8 thick discontinuous web. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Alberta, Exactly. I wish there were a quick way to teach this stuff. And how many times have you seen a local welder plate the sides of a frame when half as much steel, placed on the top and bottom, would have been much stronger? Regards. MDS | ||
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| headerpuncher |
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Ea. Washington | Don't see anybody talking about a safety factor. My Ag engineering prof at college 60 + years ago always stressed a 100% safety factor. IE figure what will do the job and then double it for safety factor. Of course he didn't know anything about "just in time" manufacturing or any of the modern least cost engineering skills of today but always said " a little more iron is better then costly or deadly failure". Always worked for me. Good discussion. | ||
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| Pure no-tiller |
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SE PA | yes you're right | ||
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| dri |
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Central Mo | I'm wanting to put a bi fold door in a machine shed. The beam in the barn is a 24 inch I beam with 5/8 top and bottom and 3/8 web, 60lbs per ft I think. Span is 50 ft, could brace to 40. Beam supports one side of a 50 x 50 flat roof barn now. What will just the beam support, I will figure the wt of the roof. Don't want to hijack a thread so reply in a new thread if you like. | ||
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| Kelly |
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NC KS | I can understand the plate on top or bottom for side loads but how will that help a vertical load? So, if I have something that is not strong enough vertically, I just put a plate on the top or botttom rather than the side? | ||
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| Big Ben |
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Columbia Basin, Ephrata, WA | Yes, plate the top and bottom. It seems that everyone's natural inclination is to do that wrong and plate the sides. I learned in college that I had been doing it wrong. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Kelly, Ok, i may not understand your question, but here goes. Let's say you have a simple beam, with a sawhorse at each end, and a dead weight hanging from the middle. Let's further say, the beam is 2x4x1/4 rectangular box tubing, on edge. The appropriate I value is (2x4x4x4/12) - (1.5x3.5x3.5x3.5/12) = 5.31in^4 Now, the load in the center of the span is enough to either fail the beam or cause it to deflect more than we want. We need to beef up the beam. I say, plate the top and bottom with 2x1/4 strip. You say, plate the sides with 4x1/4 strip. Who's right? My I = ( 2x4.5x4.5x4.5/12) - (1.5x3.5x3.5x3.5/12) = 9.82in^4 Your I = (2.5x4x4x4/12) - (1.5x3.5x3.5x3.5/12) = 7.97in^4 So...my way used half as much steel and gained more strength than yours. You don't have to believe me...but if you go to the trouble to verify this in your shop, I really like Bud Light. Now, if the strips were operating in isolation, and not attached to or supported by the tube, your way would be right. But, when welded to the tube, my way is equivalent to thickening the flange of an I beam, while your way is equivalent to thickening the web. Does that help? Seriously, try it with some light stuff if you aren't convinced. Just take a 2x2 and weld strips on it. Then try it both ways, by rotating it 90 degrees and applying the same load, and measuring the deflection. FWIW MDS Edit...and Ben in the Basin's vote doesn't count, cause he learned that at the institution where I taught...sorry, Ben...couldn't resist...:-) Edited by crowbar 2/23/2013 15:19 | ||
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| man of steel |
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MI | Yup! there are many things in everyday life that show this...... trusses, steel joist, lattice boom cranes, even my old Link-Belt squirt boom had cutouts in the sides of the boom. A lot of flat bed semi trailers have the web cutouts to reduce weight. | ||
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| havin'funfarming |
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Manitoba, Canada | Thanks crowbar! It makes sense now that I think about it but from what I have seen I don't think I can think of one instance where the re-enforcement was put on the top and bottom like you said when reinforcing a problem part. I know I have never done it that way before but will from now on. As far as welding it on can it still just be stitch welded on to achieve the same strength or does it have to be welded full length. I would suspect it might be an issue on the compression side but I don't know. TIA. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Hav'nfun, Stitching should be no problem. Just don't create a stress riser by welding across the ends of the plates. Obviously, another caveat concerns the stuff that is attached to the frames. Sometimes you just can't put the plate where it really "should" go. Regards. MDS | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | dri, So...is the building and the beam already there, and you are doing a retrofit? MDS | ||
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| Trent2520 |
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Statesville, NC | I reinforced a 2" pipe by welding 1/2 x 2 strips on the top and bottom, and it failed because I left too much gap in the welds on the compression side. The flat started to bend in compression between the welds. Depending on the thickness of material I would want to weld the compression side fully. My reinforcement would have been ok if I had welded it fully. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Trent, I stand corrected. Depends on the length between the stitches and the relative strength of the base versus the reinforcement, etc. In your case, the reinforcement would have made up a far greater share of the strength of the finished weldment than the original pipe. In any case, thorough analysis of stitching on the compression side would be way beyond elementary strength of materials and firmly into finite elements territory. My mistake. Thanks. MDS Edited by crowbar 2/23/2013 16:04 | ||
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| Old Pokey |
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Ok, now that you have put this in layman terms, I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. This brings back many things I have heard (should have learned, but......) over the years. Even now recall the science class in high school with the bridge building. Balsa wood, stirng and glue. But I can now see a little bit of why attention to the flanges are so much more important than the web. Though the web is the connection between the tension and compression, and is important in what it does, it does not take all that much to be just a connection. Whereas the flanges, top and bottom, have to resist compression and tension. It's the resistance to compression on the top flange and the resistance to stretch (or tensile strength?) of the bottom flange that do the main work. The web just allows them to do the work they need to do? Or...........................? | |||
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| Trent2520 |
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Statesville, NC | I was just giving one example, and not all situations are the same. Sometimes I have used channel to add reinforcement, and it can be stitch welded with more success than flat iron. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | Pokey, You got it. Failure on the tension side is usually relatively straightforward, but failure on the compression side MAY be more complicated, as Euler column-type folding and instability can occur. So the web IS important. Also, ag equipment loadings are seldom in only one direction, and torsion is often involved, so things can get complicated in a hurry. Regards. MDS | ||
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| dri |
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Central Mo | Yes, the building is allready there as an open front building. The beam came from a shopping center in KC, bar joists came from KC too. | ||
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| crowbar |
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Hazelton, Kansas | dri, You might consider a door from the Higher Power outfit. I have not even seen one in the flesh, much less used one, but to me, the fact that it is self supporting is a real positive, particularly for a retro situation. I suggest you take a look at their web site. If it looks good to you, why not ask this group for feedback, in a new thread? http://www.hpdoors.com/ Regards. MDS | ||
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| E718 |
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Sac & Story county IA | I did a door with a piece of steel about that size. 38 foot between supports. I used that piece because it was at the salvage yard the day I stopped. I am not at all qualified to do the math on that deal. My gut feeling says it could span more than that. Real engineers hate guys that say "that looks about right". | ||
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| Gerald J. |
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| The web has two jobs. One is to keep the flanges spaced because if the height changes 10% from 10 to 9", the bending strength based on moment of inertia changes from 1 to .729. Nearly three times the strength change as height change. Why its a good idea when working thin tubing hard that a wood dowel inside keeps the strength up. The bending of the wood doesn't usually add that much strength but it keeps the bend from collapsing the tube. The other job of the web is to keep the portions of the flanges from moving end to end, like the top flange moving towards the load point while the lower flange moves towards the supports. This puts the web in shear. On time I had the great idea to make some super sturdy floor joists using a single 2x6 web and two 2x6s flat for each flange. Looked great to my elementary understandings, but just to be sure I asked a local consulting structural engineer. He said, yup, plenty moment of inertia, but you can't stick it together. A nailed flange to web connection would take a 16 or 20 penny spike every inch end to end. Gluing would just shear because there's not enough area being glued and to even try would require perfectly flat planed or jointed surfaces and the worlds best wood glue. So I gave up on that scheme because ordinary 2x6 with a 16 penny nail every inch on both edges is sure to quickly split into 2 1x6 making the web even weaker. Point is the web can't be arbitrarily thin and develop the full beam strength. And the web does contribute to the bending strength, in proportion to the cube of the distance of the web fiber from that centroid of bending where the contribution to bending strength is zero. Crowbar is way better at this than I. Gerald J. | |||
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| Old Pokey |
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Always drill and fasten to the web, never the flanges. And, make sure all un-used holes are filled with the proper size bolt, even if it means drilling a larger hole to use the proper fitting bolt. So if you would have taken a 10x12 or so and carved the I that met the same dimensions as your 2x6 I, you'd be ok? | |||
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| Gerald J. |
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| Still wouldn't work with a 1-1/2" thick web. The shear would be more than that amount of wood could handle if it was loaded to the maximum load the flanges could take. Carved out of a solid it would have been 14-1/2" high and 5-1/2" wide. Two three inch flanges and one 5-1/2" web in height. Today its usually considered that a laminated beam, like a pole barn pole is better than a solid one because the solid one tends to split as it dries. That's a much smaller problem with 2" lumber dried before its assembled. Holes in the web at the center line are not much of a problem. Holes at the flange part of the web have serious weakening effects. Holes in the flanges hurt strength a lot too. Loading a channel like a truck frame requires applying the load to the web with an angle bracket because if you load the top or bottom flange of the channel it twists and its not so strong in twist. To prevent that twist the load has to be beyond the web. It could be applied equally well with a flat slab on top the flange, but the center of the load has to be on the other side of the web from the flange. Usually that's done with an angle bracket to the flange because that leaves the frame height constant where slabs on the flange would be higher. You can test these concepts with a beam folded up of paper or cardboard, don't need steel and tons of load. Gerald J. | |||
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| plowboy |
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![]() Brazilton KS | If you provide the physics accurately and avoid drawing conclusions I do not understand how there would be a liability problem.
And I think it would be very useful. | ||
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Square vs. rectangle? Tube bridge physics.